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Orthojoe's GT4 track thread and ramblings

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Old 07-18-2017, 10:03 AM
  #1201  
Bill Lehman
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
Spoken like a true engineer! Lol! From what I gather, it looks like a live Gsum meter just like I use in my videos. Useful tool, but not everyone knows how to use math channels in rs2. Anyways, I'll do a more in depth write up after I spend some more time with it on Sunday. There are some cool things about it. You're welcome to try it out as well. We'll see who can log the highest 'score'.
Here's how I set up G-Sum Math Channel on the GT4 and a screen shot of the data with G-Sum
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Old 07-18-2017, 10:20 AM
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zmon
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Does anyone know if the wheel bearings in the road car are the same as in the club sport?
Old 07-18-2017, 11:01 AM
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orthojoe
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Originally Posted by Bill Lehman
Here's how I set up G-Sum Math Channel on the GT4 and a screen shot of the data with G-Sum
Yup. Very useful. I only realized how to get/use it this past year. Before I was separately looking and long and lat Gs. With Gsum, it gives you the whole picture
Old 08-03-2017, 07:23 PM
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Can anyone tell me what the factory front camber settings of the GT4 are?
Old 08-03-2017, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RocketGuy3
Can anyone tell me what the factory front camber settings of the GT4 are?
-1.5
Old 08-04-2017, 12:22 AM
  #1206  
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Originally Posted by 4carl
-1.5
Thank you, Carl! I don't suppose you also know the maximum negative camber we can get from the factory? I believe I've read -2.0.

I know these should be easy questions, but my search skills are failing me.
Old 08-04-2017, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketGuy3
Thank you, Carl! I don't suppose you also know the maximum negative camber we can get from the factory? I believe I've read -2.0.

I know these should be easy questions, but my search skills are failing me.
I do my own set ups and you can get -1.8 to -2.0 with moving the strut all the way in at the tower. That's what I run makes a good compermise . Certainly not optimum probably -2.5 -3.0 would be better for a pure track set up but then your dealing with castor issues. Carl
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 4carl
I do my own set ups and you can get -1.8 to -2.0 with moving the strut all the way in at the tower. That's what I run makes a good compermise . Certainly not optimum probably -2.5 -3.0 would be better for a pure track set up but then your dealing with castor issues. Carl
Dang, that's not a lot... I asked the dealer to set it to -2.2 (no, I wouldn't normally take the car to a dealer for this kinda thing, but I had a gift card, heh), guess they're not going to be able to do that (of course the service rep did't know). Is there anything else one can do short of buying camber plates for more negative camber to limit shoulder wear? More toe in? Certain pressure settings? I do think I had the pressure too high last time I was out...

Car is bone stock right now, which I thought would be fine for a while at my experience level, but the car is so easy to drive that I'm already pushing some limits, I guess.
Old 08-04-2017, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketGuy3
Dang, that's not a lot... I asked the dealer to set it to -2.2 (no, I wouldn't normally take the car to a dealer for this kinda thing, but I had a gift card, heh), guess they're not going to be able to do that (of course the service rep did't know). Is there anything else one can do short of buying camber plates for more negative camber to limit shoulder wear? Certain pressure settings? I do think I had the pressure too high last time I was out...

Car is bone stock right now, which I thought would be fine for a while at my experience level, but the car is so easy to drive that I'm already pushing some limits, I guess.
You probably can get -2.2 with just adding shims to the lower control arm. Don't know about the castor ? Carl
Old 08-04-2017, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 4carl
You probably can get -2.2 with just adding shims to the lower control arm. Don't know about the castor ? Carl
Thanks for the info, I'll see what they come back with. Still very much a n00b when it comes to track chassis adjustments... Outside of Forza, of course.

That's pretty sweet that you do your own alignments, though... Prob saves a bunch of money, and possibly even time. Maybe I'll have the confidence/skill to give that kinda thing a try at some point, heh. I didn't even know that was reasonably possible at home without expensive equipment.
Old 08-04-2017, 09:28 AM
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Bill Lehman
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I got -2.8 F with LCA shims and moving the strut top full inboard. Getting -2.4 R required aftermarket toe links.
Old 10-01-2017, 11:35 AM
  #1212  
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Reviving my dead thread with some updates.

I finally decided to give Hoosier R7s a try just to see what they can do. I've avoided them for a very long time because of the cost, longevity, and I didn't think I was quite ready for them.

I mounted 235/35-19 on my 19x8.5 OZs, and 295/30-19 on my 19x11 OZs. Per hoosier recommendations, I did a 'break in' heat cycle 2 weeks ago where I slowly built up speed over 3 laps, did one hot lap, and then brought the car in. At that point, the wheels were taken off the car and sat in a garage for 2 weeks.
Whether or not this does anything, I don't know. We'll see how many good sessions I get out of these tires.

I returned to Thunderhill yesterday and remounted the wheels and gave them a go. Very consistent grip and consistent times. The first session yielded multiple 1:57 laps in a row within 0.2 seconds of each other until I hit traffic.


The second session yielded a 1:57.0 on the first lap, and I flirted with 1:56, but I dropped 2 off at T10.


Here is my best on RE71R


Some interesting points:

1) Despite intake/ambient temps being around 20 degrees higher with R7 (detrimental, IMO), lap time was 2.4 seconds faster on R7. Given equal conditions, I'll bet they are 3 seconds faster

2) Theoretical best based on split times of 5 sectors was 1:56.2. I agree with 24Chromium that someone who really knows what they are doing can do 1:55 in this car on R7s.

3) I switched back to RE71 in the afternoon to save the tires for Laguna Seca next week. While I was slower, I had just as much fun in the RE71R tires.

4) My best in the GT3 on RE71R in better conditions was 1:57.3.

Data on RE71R vs R7:

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R7 in blue. RE71R in red.
I'm clearly not taking full advantage of the tires yet, especially at T5,10,11,14/15. I messed up T8 and that cost me a 1:56.
Old 10-01-2017, 11:41 AM
  #1213  
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Me next R7 :-)
Old 10-01-2017, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR


Me next R7 :-)
Found a way to get those bad boys on an RS?
Old 10-01-2017, 12:45 PM
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Love the data and info in this thread Joe.

Please come join us at Buttonwillow on December 8th if your available! Few of the Socal GT4 guys will be there.

Have u been to Buttonwillow?


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