When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First - let me correct myself. After checking things last night, it is, indeed, more like ~30mph when the magic happens. Also, the magic only happens if you have your lights in automatic mode (the little "A" visible inside the green (?) headlight icon on your instrument cluster). You may need to flick your the headlight stalk forward one time to switch the "A" on.
Also - I think you'll know that something magical is happening when the high beams first come on in automatic mode. Instead of the usual instant switching on of high beams, you'll see the little "show" like you see at the 38 second mark of the longer video I posted (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-_5...xSLbeQob9A79yC). The lights kinda "spread out" instead of just flicking instantly to high.
Thanks! I keep the headlights in Auto mode all the time. My high beams already "spread out" each time they automatically switch on.. Yours didn't before the coding change? Actually, the only place in your video where I see any beam shaping happening starts at about 3:11 when the left headlight beam appears to split.around an oncoming car. There was a missed opportunity at around 1:20 but you weren't going fast enough for the high beams to operate.
I'd be more confident about this endeavor if I had seen video of beam shaping in clear weather and when following other vehicles. I'm still optimistic - hoping for success but prepared for failure.
I searched all Rennlist forums for "matrix" a couple of days ago and found an amazing number of people who badly want to get their matrix headlights fully enabled. I told the person who's going to do the coding on Monday that he might have others who want him to do it for them. I'm reluctant to post his Rennlist vendor/member name unless we are successful but will do that ASAP if - I should say "when" - we are.
I just hope the weather is decent early Monday morning. The Porsche tech wants me to leave the car with him for the day and it's a long way for my wife to drive behind me if it snows as forecast. Morning rush hour in that part of Kansas City near the "Grandview Triangle" can be crazy dangerous even in decent weather.
Thanks! I keep the headlights in Auto mode all the time. My high beams already "spread out" each time they automatically switch on.. Yours didn't before the coding change? Actually, the only place in your video where I see any beam shaping happening starts at about 3:11 when the left headlight beam appears to split.around an oncoming car. There was a missed opportunity at around 1:20 but you weren't going fast enough for the high beams to operate.
I'd be more confident about this endeavor if I had seen video of beam shaping in clear weather and when following other vehicles. I'm still optimistic - hoping for success but prepared for failure.
I searched all Rennlist forums for "matrix" a couple of days ago and found an amazing number of people who badly want to get their matrix headlights fully enabled. I told the person who's going to do the coding on Monday that he might have others who want him to do it for them. I'm reluctant to post his Rennlist vendor/member name unless we are successful but will do that ASAP if - I should say "when" - we are.
I just hope the weather is decent early Monday morning. The Porsche tech wants me to leave the car with him for the day and it's a long way for my wife to drive behind me if it snows as forecast. Morning rush hour in that part of Kansas City near the "Grandview Triangle" can be crazy dangerous even in decent weather.
I honestly don't remember how the high beams functioned before, as this is my wife's car.
Maybe ask folks to PM you if they want to know who your vendor is.
Footage from following another car. I think you'll like what you see. Note that low beams do not really change (especially as you see me hit some bumps/dips in the road). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D9g...GBm8XGN6ZDV1s7
Footage from following another car. I think you'll like what you see. Note that low beams do not really change (especially as you see me hit some bumps/dips in the road). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D9g...GBm8XGN6ZDV1s7
I just hope the weather is decent early Monday morning. The Porsche tech wants me to leave the car with him for the day and it's a long way for my wife to drive behind me if it snows as forecast. Morning rush hour in that part of Kansas City near the "Grandview Triangle" can be crazy dangerous even in decent weather.
If your vendor has time, see if they can capture a "service" VAL before, and another service VAL after, and provide you with the files. If I understand the terms correctly, you want a service VAL as opposed to an OBD VAL. Those fiiles should show us what changed. This is done within the "Additional Menu", not by some other automatic prompts to create a VAL.
Footage from following another car. I think you'll like what you see. Note that low beams do not really change (especially as you see me hit some bumps/dips in the road). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D9g...GBm8XGN6ZDV1s7
I applied the following to my 2019 e-hybrid but still can’t get apple wireless CarPlay to work. Am I missing something? Thanks
- x431: PCM: Vehicle_configuration-Apple_DIO_Wireless: Open
PCM: Vehicle_configuration_wlan_5Ghz_switch: Activated
That should be all you need. Your wired CarPlay is working, right?
Did you delete your phone's bluetooth registration from your car, and delete your car's bluetooth registration from your phone, and then re-pair the two? After you do that, within a minute or so, your phone should ask you if you want to use CarPlay. Also, make sure WiFi is enabled on your iPhone and your car, and make sure you have one of these iPhones. You do not need a wireless data plan for your car to use WiFi, but the WiFi must be turned on. Also - if you are doing this close to your house, you need to drive away. If your phone can connect to your house's WiFi, it frequently won't connect to your car's WiFi.
OK - one more update. I also coded the car to allow fog lights while the high beams are on. Here's the behavior I see:
- When the fog light switch has been selected, the front fog lights will come on, and stay on, regardless of what the high beams are doing.
- The fog lights will cut off at speeds 45mph and higher
- The fog lights will cut back on when your speed goes below 45mph (again - regardless of what the high beams are doing)
- The high beams will continue to work their Matrix LED magic the entire time
- Once you cut your car off, the fog lights will not come on the next time you start your car (you will need to manually hit the fog light switch)
That should be all you need. Your wired CarPlay is working, right?
Did you delete your phone's bluetooth registration from your car, and delete your car's bluetooth registration from your phone, and then re-pair the two? After you do that, within a minute or so, your phone should ask you if you want to use CarPlay. Also, make sure WiFi is enabled on your iPhone and your car, and make sure you have one of these iPhones. You do not need a wireless data plan for your car to use WiFi, but the WiFi must be turned on. Also - if you are doing this close to your house, you need to drive away. If your phone can connect to your house's WiFi, it frequently won't connect to your car's WiFi.
wired CarPlay works. Removed my phone on device manager, removed my car from my phone and started all over again. Made sure the car or my phone is connected to my home wifi. Manually connected my phone to the car wifi hotspot but still do not work.
The car asks me if I want to use apple wireless carplay, when I first established a connection to the car via Bluetooth, but then it dies and refuse to work.
I went to the device manager and try to get it to go into wireless CarPlay. It thinks about it and wouldn’t work. Wired CarPlay still works.
I rechecked the coding and those changes were still present. I am using an iPhone 14, which worked on other cars, wireless CarPlay.
anyone else got wireless CarPlay to work on a 2019 car?
Also, what’s the charging speed of the usb-a ports on the 2019 model?
wired CarPlay works. Removed my phone on device manager, removed my car from my phone and started all over again. Made sure the car or my phone is connected to my home wifi. Manually connected my phone to the car wifi hotspot but still do not work.
The car asks me if I want to use apple wireless carplay, when I first established a connection to the car via Bluetooth, but then it dies and refuse to work.
I went to the device manager and try to get it to go into wireless CarPlay. It thinks about it and wouldn’t work. Wired CarPlay still works.
I rechecked the coding and those changes were still present. I am using an iPhone 14, which worked on other cars, wireless CarPlay.
anyone else got wireless CarPlay to work on a 2019 car?
Also, what’s the charging speed of the usb-a ports on the 2019 model?
Odd - works fine on my 2019 Cayenne S (Bose system). I'm the one that wrote the instructions earlier in this thread.
This is due to the generous help I've gotten from @rnlst_log , @lsb , and @don16 .
OK - I think (repeat THINK) I found a path for Matrix LED's on US-spec cars. Everything below sounds crazy, I know, but could someone who has time and patience try this:
Requirements:
- US Spec car
- PDLS+ LED Matrix headlights (standard matrix headlights is what I have, the black ones should work, too)
- Recent version of PIWIS III and a knowledge of coding, using the F7 Additional menu, and error/fault clearing (I used version 41.400)
- External power of 70amps or more (do not do this with the engine running, do not do this using a battery tender)
VERY BIG WARNINGS:
- You need to know your way around PIWIS III pretty well. If you're not confident, don't do this. Please.
- Most codings you have put into place previously will get erased by this process. You will need to put them back.
- Even though you are simply going to make changes, do automatic coding, revert the changes, and then do automatic coding again, you could definintely BORK your car. If you can't fix it, seek professional help.
The long and involved process (plan on 2 - 3 hours):
- Go into PIWIS Diags and let it determine your car
- Go to F7 Additional menu
- Step forward to the options (please make good notes about your original settings - you'll be using them shortly)
- Change FAHRLICHTSCHALTUNG TO 8K8 (your original setting is probably 8K5)
- Change LICHTASSISTENZSYSTEME to 8G4 (yours is probably set to 8G1)
- Change LINKS-/RECHTSVERKEHR from AV2 to AV1 (make sure yours was originally set to AV2)
- Change TYPPRUEFLAENDER/LAENDER M. BES ANDFORDERUNGEN to B2 (your should have originally been set to B34)
- Click on Save and go to Overview
- Select ALL MODULES (Ctrl-A makes this easy)
- Go to Coding
- Select Automatic Coding (just plain Automatic Coding)
- Let it do it's thing - this will take a while, and you will get a TON of errors, and your instrument panel will switch to German (PCM will likely stay english). You may also note that your turn signals no longer function.
- If your emergency brake is being whiny, put your foot firmly on the brake pedal, press the e brake button down (maybe hold it for 2 seconds), then lift the button up (hold it for 2 second). Repeat if the e-brake is still being whiny.
- Use your PIWIS to clear all errors, but some will remain - this is to be expected (especially lighting errors, and maybe even the allrad (All Wheel Drive). This is ok.
- This step is likely optional, but it's what I did: Start your car, put it in gear, and then put it right back in park. I did this just to check the emergency brake operation.
- Cut the car off, leave PIWIS and external power connected and running. Walk away. Have a cup of coffee. Do somthing for 15-20 minutes (again - this step is probably not necessary, but it's what I did)
- Now - repeat the steps above, except change everything back to your original settings (your wrote those down earlier, right?) **** IMPORTANT EDIT: Leave LICHTASSISTENZSYSTEME set to 8G4 ****
- Fix your whiny emergency brake again
- I started my car, put it in gear, put it in park, etc. (probably not needed)
- I took the time at this point to swap the PIWIS for my Launch and put my other codings back into place (seat belt chime off, sidemarker flashes with turnsignal, etc.). Most codings you have put into place previously will get erased by this process. You will need to put them back.
- Disconnect everything, lock up, and walk away for a while (another 15-20 minutes - probably not needed, but it's what I did)
- Go test it out on a dark road where you might get some cars coming the other way (make sure your high beams are on - blue light on the instrument panel)
Some screen shots of the settings I'm talking about:
Wow, fantastic work! I wonder if the same can be applied to the 971 using engineering mode.
Screenshot from "normal mode" after poking around in the menus.
If your vendor has time, see if they can capture a "service" VAL before, and another service VAL after, and provide you with the files. If I understand the terms correctly, you want a service VAL as opposed to an OBD VAL. Those fiiles should show us what changed. This is done within the "Additional Menu", not by some other automatic prompts to create a VAL.
I regret to report failure on re-coding to fully enable the matrix headlights. The Porsche tech who is also a sponsor/member of this forum was unable to get his PIWIS 3 version 40.0 into engineering mode on my 2022 Cayenne which meant that he could not view the German language parameters to make the modifications. He told me that he logged on to Rennlist and viewed this thread in attempt to resolve the issue.
He said that the following information might help figure this out:
What is the model and year of your Porsche? I assume that it is a Cayenne based on your videos but what year is it? He wondered if his version of PIWIS 3 could be too old to work on my 2022. He said that he would speak with his software vendor tomorrow about it. His version of PIWIS 3 wanted him to connect to the Internet to function on my 2022 and I think he said that normally isn't necessary.
What is the origin of your PIWIS 3 and what specific version is it? Is it a version that has somehow been modified to work differently and perhaps without restrictions? He speculated that versions that come out of Asia might be different in how they work. He mentioned that failure to get his PIWIS version to work on my 2022 might be a sign that he needed to upgrade.
At least we learned something today ... that it's not that simple.
Not all PIWIS versions manage coding, regardless of being on engineering mode. My clone came with 38 and 37 and the latter works for coding in the MY 20 cayenne and 911 as well as the 23 Spyder (old platform). The former gets me grayed out lines.
Conversely, my pana 21 works about 75%, as some modules are not even "seen" by the clone.
So, it could be a combination of a non-coding version and your car being too new for it. I believe V41 would be the one to work, the fellas here in the thread will know for sure.