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And now the rear passenger door on my '15 has stopped unlocking. I'm thinking there's a problem with these things, but I wonder if, after warranty, it's a simple clean and lube fix?
And now the rear passenger door on my '15 has stopped unlocking. I'm thinking there's a problem with these things, but I wonder if, after warranty, it's a simple clean and lube fix?
I doubt it's that simple. When my rear passenger side door one stopped locking - I asked the place that replaced it (about $800) for the old part thinking I could learn something from it. Not a chance - it's a glued together module of plastic and steel with some rivets and electrical components thrown in for good luck. I still have it in the box in my garage. Maybe I'll take it out sometime and take some photos, but I doubt if I'll try disassembling it.
I doubt it's that simple. When my rear passenger side door one stopped locking - I asked the place that replaced it (about $800) for the old part thinking I could learn something from it. Not a chance - it's a glued together module of plastic and steel with some rivets and electrical components thrown in for good luck. I still have it in the box in my garage. Maybe I'll take it out sometime and take some photos, but I doubt if I'll try disassembling it.
Could you just douse it with brake cleaner fluid or WD-40, maybe, to flush out any crud in there? If you have the old part, maybe worth a try?
Still have the issue, but can add that when I use the key in the driver door lock (exterior) it locks, and unlocks just fine. Alarm chirp and all.
Would this simply mean the lock actuator just does have enough juice to pull the Bowden cable? I tried to lube the lock area to no avail, did feel kinda stiff though (the lock)
Could you just douse it with brake cleaner fluid or WD-40, maybe, to flush out any crud in there? If you have the old part, maybe worth a try?
If it's truly non-serviceable, that really sucks.
I don't think that would be effective. It's REALLY pretty complex and packed in there.. and I'd have no way to know if that helped because I'm not paying anyone to remove the new part to reinstall an old broken part in the hopes it got better.
Tangential to the issue of not locking -
The front passenger door handle just came off in my hand while opening.
And the fuel door does not open - even with the inside pull cord. Coaxed it open with plastic tool to refuel.
Parts on order using VIN - hope it comes in the correct color.
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Well....I finally decided to order a new driver door lock actuator for $185 and see if I could get this done. 5 hours later, I have a working door lock and the alarm once again arms itself. For those that may experience this issue in the future you have a few things to do here-
1) remove door panel and disconnect a few electrical connections (plenty of youtube videos showing how to do this)
2) lower the window about 4 inches, and then remove a couple grommets that cover a hole allowing access to the window regulator bolts. Loosen two bolts with small heads (they spin counter clockwise as the install from the opposite site)
3) slide window to the top and tape in place
4) remove the "inner" door panel. With the regulator lowered you can untuck the upper portion to get it all out of the way, but still connected.
5) remove the outer door lock assembly as the shaft attaches to the lock actuator, simply loosen screw and push and the outer lock becomes "un-hinged"
6) loosen two screws holding actuator in place, disconnect the electrical connection, and the bowden cables, and attach to new lock actuator. One cable is routed to the outer door handle, and the other is routed to the inner door handle.
In order to free the window glass it looks to me like we're talking about removing two small screws on the reverse inside at the top of the guides/bottom of the glass. Contrary to what I've read I don't see any grommet access to anything. The guides and all are also attached to the bottom of the inner panel from reverse with large heads and cable wound around a spindle.
If I need to remove those two blind screws on the inside reverse at the top I will but I would be very concerned about getting them relocated on the install.
My passenger rear door on a 2013 GTS no longer locks and the alarm doesn't chirp. Reading here sounds like it's the actuator. I'm going to get a quote from my local independent repair shop. Hoping for $600 or less. Too much more than that, I'll probably try to fix it myself.
My passenger rear door on a 2013 GTS no longer locks and the alarm doesn't chirp. Reading here sounds like it's the actuator. I'm going to get a quote from my local independent repair shop. Hoping for $600 or less. Too much more than that, I'll probably try to fix it myself.
Once you figure out what is actually going on in there it's not horrible but the learning curve is significant. My first side took about 4 hours but the second was an hour plus a little. $149 and change per side for parts.
2014 Cayenne, my rear right - pasenger side door is not open from outside, i have to open from inside. when i lock the doors with remote, the right rear does not work. I am very sure iit is actuator. after watching the video, I see the labor is very intense, my door has the shade option. So i'm going to ask the body shop to do it for me, and I buy parts on-line, save some $ on that. Do I need PIWIS to reprogram the actuator?
2014 Cayenne, my rear right - pasenger side door is not open from outside, i have to open from inside. when i lock the doors with remote, the right rear does not work. I am very sure iit is actuator. after watching the video, I see the labor is very intense, my door has the shade option. So i'm going to ask the body shop to do it for me, and I buy parts on-line, save some $ on that. Do I need PIWIS to reprogram the actuator?
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