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Saw that USB integration in this post somewhere.... After personal experience snaking a wire for the radar detector mute box into my cup holder are, not sure I ever want to take apart that whole center console area. Maybe glovebox is a solution, but where would you put the plug? on the side and it will prevent the box from lowering all the way down. in the back and probably won't close, on the bottom and all the dirt will collect in the usb hole connector.
I’m not really keen on the glovebox, just wanted to see how it was done. The place where I end up putting the phone (with CarPlay this could be the cupholder area) is where the cable is going to be needed.
AliExpress sent me an email this am that my item has shipped. So that’s something!
Wrapping up the install on mine this AM. I build harnessing for a living so I'm trying not to be too nit picky on the harness but, there are several small things they could do to make life a bit easier with this system. A few things that may help others:
The documentation is pretty horrendous and it seems like the system is continuously evolving. You can't rely on the unit you receive to be exactly the same as others documented in this thread or other forums. I ended up reading several different installation threads to get all the details I needed. That lead to bouncing back and forth between these different sources and caused a little confusion. Stupid little things like harness revisions that don't match the naming conventions on the unit or it's directions, some directions say long press the "Info" button others use the "Nav" button, some units have more dip switches than others, etc...
My unit has the newer Joyeauto harness with the ACC wire and a separate fuse tap labelled "ACC". I haven't noticed mention of this fuse tap previously. I believe it serves the same function as the ACC wire but, did not verify this with my meter. I have not attached the discreet wire named ACC but, did install the fuse tap and everything seems to be working. My vehicle has a fuse installed in slot 38 in the RS fuse panel as others have referenced using so, I tapped slot 18 also in the RS panel which was open on the diesel. It says it is for a downstream O2 sensor on the other models. It's a 10A circuit that is switched with the ignition. I was having a hard time finding anything else open that wasn't constant power.
Make sure you connect the headphone jacks Audio In and Audio Out with the included cable. Not sure why this wasn't just built into the harness. It would have made a cleaner installation. Being impatient I tied the one jack up with the add on camera jacks and had to back track to figure out what I was missing.
Definitely power everything up and check it before reinstalling the ducts. They are the worst part of the install.
If you chose to remove the glove box for access to run wires be careful to remove the HVAC connection for the heated/cooled glove box. When I was fumbling with the light connector the unit got off balance and started to fall. When it did broke the tabs on the nipple for the air. Sadness.
Not sure what the cause was but, last night when I got it all together my PCM screen was working displaying the factory display fine. I then plugged in the carplay unit and got the carplay screen to run but, never could get the OEM screen to come back even after unplugging the car play unit. After cleaning up the crap that leaked out my undies I ripped it all apart and started over. This AM its working properly thank Christ. I don't think I had any issues with the internal connections. Not sure if it's related but, I made it a point to disable bluetooth in the PCM and to select "Aux" before connecting the Carplay this time around.
My LVDS cable is a POS. The strain relief on the back of the plug to the box is cracked from removing it and I can see the cable is slipping out of the connector. I made a conscious effort to be careful to pull on the connector shell so, I think it fatigued just from handling the unit during mounting. It is working but, doesn't look long for this world. I'm not going too crazy hiding my instal just yet. I'm going to see if I can source a replacement cable.
Unfortunately if/when this LVDS cable does fail I'll basically have to redo the entire installation because there is no connection for it at the back of the unit. It is connected at the board and runs right down to the remote unit which I'm installing in the RS footwell for relative ease of access. So if I ever need to get the PCM out I'll need to fish that cable back out from the RS footwell. A connector at the back of the PCM would be nice.
Questions:
Currently I've only used the wired connection. Does anyone have advice/details for setting up the wireless carplay and updating the Joyeauto firmware/software?
Does anyone know the part number for the nipple that connects the HVAC to the glove box? I need the part behind the glove box.
I did not update any firmware. I've setup wireless on the recent model i got (with a fused Acc wire) - not sure if its the same on all models.
The way to connect to wifi on this model is via bluetooth - so both bluetooth and wifi should be turned on on the mobile phone and ensure that the mobile phone is not connected to any other wifi point while setting the connection up. Then on the joyeauto pcm screen, navigate to the Setup > Device > Bluetooth section. Create a Name for your bluetooth connection - the default is Joyeauto. Ensure Bluetooth and 'Visibility' are both ON. (If 'Visibility' is off, your mobile device wont detect the bluetooth point) Open the bluetooth settings on your mobile phone and connect to the point you setup - you will have to acknowledge a few prompts on the mobile screen and your device will automatically connect to the wifi point on the device.
Once setup, the mobile connects automatically on many occasions but at times i've found that while bluetooth and wifi are connected, i still do not see carplay. Initially, i was not sure if there was a connection issue but later on i found that i could activate that by going to Setup > Device > Bluetooth > Connected devices > <phone name> on the joyeauto pcm screen and then turning the Carplay option ON. But for that hiccup, its been smooth so far
For the Microphone and Acc wire. i did not remove the glove box or hvac..i just removed the trim strip above the door to the glovebox and the 3 screws behind it that hold the top of the glove box to the dash. I was then able to push the wires into this space by gently pulling the joint. In this way i was able to lead the wires right from the pcm cavity through the vent and trip to the right fuse panel. For the fused ACC, i chose an empty fuse slot - # 40 on the cayenne base 2014 which is for RSE (10A) and my Cayenne has no rear seat entertainment. There is only one metal contact in this fuse slot but using a multimeter i was able to check that this point turns off after a few minutes of locking the car (not always on). So, I chose that.
Cbracerx, let us know how the install goes and especially if you run into anything that causes issues or isn’t in the instructions.
I’m looking forward in doing this too.
Cbracerx, let us know how the install goes and especially if you run into anything that causes issues or isn’t in the instructions.
I’m looking forward in doing this too.
The joyauto vides seem the best "DIY" that exists I could find, but there are a lot of important items in this thread that need to be considered as well, so I'll try and put some of that together.
After having mine for a couple weeks it is working pretty well. It occasionally skips but, I attribute that to my phone as it does it on my wife's Mini which has carplay from the factory. Amazingly enough I've only made one call since having it and the other person did report a really bad echo, not sure if this is a one time thing or not yet.
A few more observations that may be useful:
Wireless setup is pretty straight forward, you just need to give the unit a little time to boot and get everything going.
At startup before the phone links you can access the retrofit device menu, in there you can adjust the EQ which is very helpful in getting the sound tuned to your liking. You can also adjust the subwoofer output via turning it on/off and a slider which is only available when the sub is on.
You can also access this menu at anytime by turning the bluetooth/wifi of on your phone. Although at that point you have no sound coming from carplay to tune around.
You need to remember to setup the PCM Aux input as you would the other inputs (surround on/off, linear on/off, etc...) you do this by exiting the carplay interface via the long press of the nav button. Not sure if it's the same button for all variants of the carplay retrofit.
The rearview camera does not stay up nearly as long after switching out of reverse as it does when not in carplay mode. Haven't found a time setting for this, not sure if this dictated by the PCM or the retrofit.
I've had one or two instances of it connecting and no sound being output. If you turn off wifi and turn it back on it should be resolved. Do not forget that you likely cranked the volume way up thinking it was just turned down to zero before doing this like I did.
I just went ro the Aliexpress site that sells the Joyauto version. For those of you thinking about getting the upgrade. They are having a Black Friday sale this week and it says it will sell for $337.68. Might need to pull the trigger at that price.
The unit arrived today. Here is what it looks like. Note that this is not the joy version, it was a cheaper seller that I ordered from on singles day.
i hope to be “then enjoying” in a few weeks
I think it's the same manufacturers/ suppliers these companies use. When you setup connections to this box the Bluetooth name will show up as joyeauto! And the connection diagram is the same too! Yes joyeauto has a website to download firmware and this one does not have a website but in my view the hardware is the same... There are two models from a physical appearance point of view but both companies seem to be selling both models at least looking at their ads..
Just ordered mine from Aliexpress Joyauto. Got the Black Friday deal of $335 plus got about $12 in coupon savings down to $325. Of course got hit with taxes and used PayPal to pay so got their fee, but still only came to $347. Figured if there were any issues and needed resolution, I’ve always had great success using PayPal, but am hoping and expecting that all works out.
The only thing I wanted to do was make sure I got the spacer screws for the board as I do have the XM board and want to keep that installed as well. I probably can get them at work as I work for a company that does custom board work so we probably have some lying around, but no where in the order process did I get to request the screws.
Just like Boomer80, I ordered mine from Aliexpress Joyauto and got the Black Friday deal. I got it delivered yesterday and installed today.
The installation video from joyeauto is great. The only thing is that their example does not have the Satellite card, and they use the opening on the PCM to run the LVDS out cable thru it.
I had to improvise to accommodate the LVDS out cable.
Also, I used 3M Temflex tape to protect the flat cables:
Besides that, the only other inconvenience was an ECHO during a phone call on the other caller side. After a quick whatsapp txt with their tech support, the solution was explained.
The iPhone has to be connected via bluetooth to both devices, the PCM and the Joye kit. The phone calls will go through the PCM, accepting and ending the calls via de steering wheel controls or PLC buttons. DO NOT accept or make a phone call using the CarPlay touch screen, 'cause it will go through the joye kit (huge echo). Their microphone is there only for Siri or voice input for apps.
I haven't have the chance to test the unit for more that 5 minutes. I'll drive the car tomorrow to test its complete functionality.
11-12-2019, 11:43 AM
