2008 Porsche Cayenne Turbo Engine Issue...
09-27-2018, 04:20 PM
#1
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2008 Porsche Cayenne Turbo Engine Issue...
I've recently bought a 2008 Cayenne Turbo without doing much research and trying to see if I got myself into a lot of trouble or ...
Here is the video of the engine running.
Car has 93 miles and has had regular visits to the dealer.
Full power and seems to be running properly.
Ticking goes up with the revs.
Car made a 200 miles trip with no issues and no increase in sound.
Metal flakes/cylindrical pieces found in the engine oil when I did it.
If anybody knows what would be a best bet for the issue I would much appreciate the input.
Thanks in advance.
Here is the video of the engine running.
Car has 93 miles and has had regular visits to the dealer.
Full power and seems to be running properly.
Ticking goes up with the revs.
Car made a 200 miles trip with no issues and no increase in sound.
Metal flakes/cylindrical pieces found in the engine oil when I did it.
If anybody knows what would be a best bet for the issue I would much appreciate the input.
Thanks in advance.
09-27-2018, 06:54 PM
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sorry to tell you- that is definitely cylinder scoring. It is identical to what my 2008 sounded like. Time for a re-sleave and rebuild. There are lots of threads on this issue that can help you with options.
Best,
Tom
Best,
Tom
09-28-2018, 12:32 AM
#6
Maybe it is this car?
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d...703698680.html
Price started at 13,000 when it was first listed.
It could be worth parting out for the right price.
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d...703698680.html
Price started at 13,000 when it was first listed.
It could be worth parting out for the right price.
09-28-2018, 07:55 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Make sure you file a report with the NHTSA, more the better. Maybe there will be a class action. Kind of ridiculous how many. And as others have said, it isn't a Honda that you can find a cheap engine or rebuild for, many times the cost of engine exceeds the value of the vehicle.
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09-28-2018, 09:17 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Maybe it is this car?
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d...703698680.html
Price started at 13,000 when it was first listed.
It could be worth parting out for the right price.
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d...703698680.html
Price started at 13,000 when it was first listed.
It could be worth parting out for the right price.
The turbos have been dropping like flies lately.
09-28-2018, 09:57 AM
#9
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09-28-2018, 10:00 AM
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Maybe it is this car?
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d...703698680.html
Price started at 13,000 when it was first listed.
It could be worth parting out for the right price.
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d...703698680.html
Price started at 13,000 when it was first listed.
It could be worth parting out for the right price.
09-28-2018, 10:01 AM
#11
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Couple mechanics inspected and definitely not rod knock... sound is on top drivers side engine from valve cover area...
09-28-2018, 10:13 AM
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Is there a definitive "reasonable" cost to fixing this?!
We don't have a lot of local Porsche guys here, but finding the right person might save this car, I'd spend the money to get the engine fixed
09-28-2018, 10:31 AM
#13
If it’s not cylinder scoring - if you are very lucky - sticky solenoids if the car has had infrequent oil changes can happen due to oil varnishes gumming them up and cause a similar sound. When it happens there’s normally a cam angle unfeasible error too (can’t remember the actual code off the top of my head).
To check, grab a 9v pp3 battery and some leads. Take the black cap off each solenoid cover and remove the connector. Take the -ve lead and hold it on one of the connector poles on the solenoid. Tap the other pole of the solenoid with the +ve lead actuating the solenoid. You should hear a definite ‘thuck’ with each tap if it’s free. Do this 20-30 times then reverse polarity to throw the solenoid the other way. The solenoid should now move freely.
If if the car starts and the ticking has gone, there’s the problem. Several oil flushes/changes and the above procedure can free them up again negating any need to change. Mine would have a similar sound to a piston rock when I first got it after a fast run. Three oil changes and 7,500 miles later sounds sweet as with no ticking. Hope it helps. Easy check to do tho.
To check, grab a 9v pp3 battery and some leads. Take the black cap off each solenoid cover and remove the connector. Take the -ve lead and hold it on one of the connector poles on the solenoid. Tap the other pole of the solenoid with the +ve lead actuating the solenoid. You should hear a definite ‘thuck’ with each tap if it’s free. Do this 20-30 times then reverse polarity to throw the solenoid the other way. The solenoid should now move freely.
If if the car starts and the ticking has gone, there’s the problem. Several oil flushes/changes and the above procedure can free them up again negating any need to change. Mine would have a similar sound to a piston rock when I first got it after a fast run. Three oil changes and 7,500 miles later sounds sweet as with no ticking. Hope it helps. Easy check to do tho.
09-28-2018, 10:34 AM
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If it’s not cylinder scoring - if you are very lucky - sticky solenoids if the car has had infrequent oil changes can happen due to oil varnishes gumming them up and cause a similar sound. When it happens there’s normally a cam angle unfeasible error too (can’t remember the actual code off the top of my head).
To check, grab a 9v pp3 battery and some leads. Take the black cap off each solenoid cover and remove the connector. Take the -ve lead and hold it on one of the connector poles on the solenoid. Tap the other pole of the solenoid with the +ve lead actuating the solenoid. You should hear a definite ‘thuck’ with each tap if it’s free. Do this 20-30 times then reverse polarity to throw the solenoid the other way. The solenoid should now move freely.
If if the car starts and the ticking has gone, there’s the problem. Several oil flushes/changes and the above procedure can free them up again negating any need to change. Mine would have a similar sound to a piston rock when I first got it after a fast run. Three oil changes and 7,500 miles later sounds sweet as with no ticking. Hope it helps. Easy check to do tho.
To check, grab a 9v pp3 battery and some leads. Take the black cap off each solenoid cover and remove the connector. Take the -ve lead and hold it on one of the connector poles on the solenoid. Tap the other pole of the solenoid with the +ve lead actuating the solenoid. You should hear a definite ‘thuck’ with each tap if it’s free. Do this 20-30 times then reverse polarity to throw the solenoid the other way. The solenoid should now move freely.
If if the car starts and the ticking has gone, there’s the problem. Several oil flushes/changes and the above procedure can free them up again negating any need to change. Mine would have a similar sound to a piston rock when I first got it after a fast run. Three oil changes and 7,500 miles later sounds sweet as with no ticking. Hope it helps. Easy check to do tho.
I'll give it a try.
Thank you!
09-28-2018, 10:52 AM
#15
Good luck - here’s a video that may help explain things better than I have lol.
the cayenne ones require breaking gaskets to access 😡 so I just actuate them in situ with the 9v battery. You can do each one in less than a minute feeling and listening for that ‘thuck thuck thuck’ when you tap tap tap.