Suggestions for alignment/tire pressure settings at Daytona?
#2
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What I have heard
Zero toe front, 2mm each side toe rear.
Camber -2F -1.5R or less
PSI +4PSI what you normally run all around, wait for right rear tire to come up to at least 40 PSI (2 laps?).
Zero toe front, 2mm each side toe rear.
Camber -2F -1.5R or less
PSI +4PSI what you normally run all around, wait for right rear tire to come up to at least 40 PSI (2 laps?).
#3
Race Director
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In the morning 1st session since you haven't driven Daytona in years and will not be pushing has hard start out cold 32-33 cold as you probably will only get a 7psi build up then bleed down from there for the rest of the day.
#5
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Last weekend had Hooiser tech tell me to run 36 front left (driver's) and 40 hot on other 3. I still ran right rear at 42-43 to be safe. Alignment I leave to the professionals, like Peter
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#9
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Ran Hoosiers recommended pressures was 38-39 in right rear and dialed camber back for the weekend. Between us and the guys we were hanging with 5 Hoosiers let go, they switched to Michelin blues for Sunday and didn't have any more issues.
#10
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As far as pressures based on the weight I gave him (approximately 3400 with me in it), he said I'm looking for hot 34-35 left left side and hot 38-39 right with the right rear being 1psi higher than right front.
I don't think I want to run Daytona anymore. This is a pain in the ***.
I will pull out all the wing I have. I wonder if I could just take the blade right off?
#11
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Andrew,
really, do not run -2.5 camber in the back, run -1.0 to -1.5 for Daytona.
I ran -3.2 rear camber in the Fiat with brand new MPSC, proper tire pressures, I did not have a chance to change the alignment on Friday before the event. In just 90 minutes and 6 track sessions, my rear tires have 5/32" tread depth on the outside, and 3/32" inside, this is abnormal wear. Anywhere from -1.0 to -1.5 rear camber I could have obtained better tire wear, but more important, more grip on the rear axle by running more tire, so a safer and faster car through the banking.
Reter's recommended alignment is spot on.
Whoever told you to run 0 toe all around in a 911 doesn't like you too much around this planet. Don't ever do that, much less for track use. 4mm or 5mm total toe-in on the rear axle (0.25 degrees per corner or 2mm per corner) and 0 toe in the front.
really, do not run -2.5 camber in the back, run -1.0 to -1.5 for Daytona.
I ran -3.2 rear camber in the Fiat with brand new MPSC, proper tire pressures, I did not have a chance to change the alignment on Friday before the event. In just 90 minutes and 6 track sessions, my rear tires have 5/32" tread depth on the outside, and 3/32" inside, this is abnormal wear. Anywhere from -1.0 to -1.5 rear camber I could have obtained better tire wear, but more important, more grip on the rear axle by running more tire, so a safer and faster car through the banking.
Reter's recommended alignment is spot on.
Whoever told you to run 0 toe all around in a 911 doesn't like you too much around this planet. Don't ever do that, much less for track use. 4mm or 5mm total toe-in on the rear axle (0.25 degrees per corner or 2mm per corner) and 0 toe in the front.
#13
Nordschleife Master
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[QUOTE=deputydog95;8987328]
I don't think I want to run Daytona anymore. This is a pain in the ***.
[QUOTE]
I dont have to adjust anything for Sebring this weekend
The risk of incident alone makes Daytona not worth it in my book
I don't think I want to run Daytona anymore. This is a pain in the ***.
[QUOTE]
I dont have to adjust anything for Sebring this weekend
The risk of incident alone makes Daytona not worth it in my book
#14
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Don't listen to Bob, he's in race thinking. Might be faster and easier on tires, but just ask Erik, started with no wing and got it sideways at 170MPH. Added max wing and said car drives much better.
I run max wing and the car felt much more stable.
I run max wing and the car felt much more stable.