Suggestions for alignment/tire pressure settings at Daytona?
#16
Nordschleife Master
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This is from street car experience. Had numerous guys with 997 GT3s at Daytona, and similar car at California Speedway. Something else may have been going on with Eriks car. You want little downforce (the wing alone generates a sizeable amount without reangling) to reduce load on that rear tire. Yes you will lose a lot of speed by having too much wing. Last street car there we were doing like 185-190 at the S/F line when we cut the wing back. Stable as could be otherwise.
#17
Race Director
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I don't run Hoosiers but every time I go to Daytona I see Hoosiers letting go. Andrew since this is simply just a DE for you (me too) I would NOT take a chance with your R6's at Daytona. I'd either run a really good street tire like the Michelin Super Sports or Sport Cups or get a set of Toyo R888....I know I know lots hate the R888 like Izzone but it is a very stout tire with a super strong and stiff side wall and they will handle Daytona very very well.
for 3 day at Daytona I used R888 at Daytona with -2.5f .5mm toe out front and -2r and 2mm toe in and the car handled great and the tires worked fine. However if Vortex is going to do an alignment then I do suggest running a little less camber than what I have would be a bit better...but no more than what I have.
R6 and the suggested Camber settings for R6 just don't jive with Daytona. Have you called Hoosier directly yet?
for 3 day at Daytona I used R888 at Daytona with -2.5f .5mm toe out front and -2r and 2mm toe in and the car handled great and the tires worked fine. However if Vortex is going to do an alignment then I do suggest running a little less camber than what I have would be a bit better...but no more than what I have.
R6 and the suggested Camber settings for R6 just don't jive with Daytona. Have you called Hoosier directly yet?
#18
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I think ill be ok with R888 at daytona. Running -2.5 F and -1.7 R with only 0mm F and-2mm IN rear toe.
Thought about adjusting front camber to 1.5 for daytona. We will see....
Thought about adjusting front camber to 1.5 for daytona. We will see....
#19
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It takes hard driving and a good 3 laps to fully heat up tires....4 laps or so at 8ths driving to heat up tires at Daytona. Morning session cool weather cold track I started out at 32psi cold...bleed air front there.
#20
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I am going to follow Reter and Rad's suggestion and follow that alignment. It's going on the rack tomorrow.
As far as not running Hoosiers... While there have been problems, I wonder how many in comparison to people that have run them successfully with no issues. You generally don't see posts like "I ran Daytona on Hoosiers and my tires didn't blow up"![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think they'll be okay. I'll get the right alignment on there and keep them over inflated, relatively speaking.
As far as not running Hoosiers... While there have been problems, I wonder how many in comparison to people that have run them successfully with no issues. You generally don't see posts like "I ran Daytona on Hoosiers and my tires didn't blow up"
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think they'll be okay. I'll get the right alignment on there and keep them over inflated, relatively speaking.
#21
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#22
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So it sounds like the consensus is run the MSPC tires, not the hoosier R-6. I have not messed with the rear wing, I have it as it was from the factory. DO I leave that?
You guys kind of got me running scared. I am excited about daytona but now a little worried. I ran 1 day at fontana and loved it. No alignment changed and not extreme tire wear on the R6.
Not sure what to think.
You guys kind of got me running scared. I am excited about daytona but now a little worried. I ran 1 day at fontana and loved it. No alignment changed and not extreme tire wear on the R6.
Not sure what to think.
#23
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Be careful about choosing a given tire for the wrong reasons.
The problem with Daytona is that it puts a much heavier load on the tires (front and rear) than racetracks with no banking.
A 997 GT3 with a full load of fuel and a driver weighs almost 3,500 lbs, that's near 1,100 lbs per rear corner at static weight.
The 315/30R19 R6 has a load rating of 1433 lbs, while the stock MPSC 305/30R19 tolerates higher loads at 1,874 lbs per tire.
I usually run my A6 tires for track days, but for Daytona I had to buy tires with higher load ratings, I ran a 345/30R19 MPSC that is rated at 2,039 lbs.
The problem with Daytona is that it puts a much heavier load on the tires (front and rear) than racetracks with no banking.
A 997 GT3 with a full load of fuel and a driver weighs almost 3,500 lbs, that's near 1,100 lbs per rear corner at static weight.
The 315/30R19 R6 has a load rating of 1433 lbs, while the stock MPSC 305/30R19 tolerates higher loads at 1,874 lbs per tire.
I usually run my A6 tires for track days, but for Daytona I had to buy tires with higher load ratings, I ran a 345/30R19 MPSC that is rated at 2,039 lbs.
#25
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#28
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In addition to the multiple tire failures 2 weeks ago, there were also plenty of corded tires that could have failed if not inspected.
But then, there is the driver's factor. If you are lapping Daytona in 3 minutes per lap with top speeds of 110mph, you would be just fine with any alignment.
#29
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#30
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Front
-2.5 camber
.5mm toe out
Rear
-2 camber
2mm toe in
I was really starting to get a lot of wear on the insides of the front and rear. I just had Ralph at Vortex flip them today so you can ask him what they loked like. Tires did not fail or come parat but I did not run hot laps until the tires got up to at least 38 psi then I ran harder and the front would be at 39 psi and rear at 40-42 psi hot.
I am actually going to reduce my camber at my next alignment and go back to -2.2 front -1.8 rear if I continue on R888.