For those with old school wheel bolts, anyone switched to lugs?
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Poking around looking at cordless impact drivers. That might be a nice addition to the tool box for these tire changes. Once again, there are nine zillion options. So confusing...
#19
Rennlist Member
I bought a snap on for a few dollars over cost in tax free Oregon!
My only advice - hand thread the nuts to get them started and buy more gun than you think you will need
Breakaway goes away with weak battery and if you have to resort to manual tools to break the nut loose then what is the point
Oh and an extra battery as everyone will want to borrow it
My only advice - hand thread the nuts to get them started and buy more gun than you think you will need
Breakaway goes away with weak battery and if you have to resort to manual tools to break the nut loose then what is the point
Oh and an extra battery as everyone will want to borrow it
#20
Burning Brakes
So is this a good choice for occasion street use and 8-12 DEs/year???
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...%32%30%20studs
Also, the 997 wheels have a ball seat, not a conical seat correct???
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...%32%30%20studs
Also, the 997 wheels have a ball seat, not a conical seat correct???
#21
Burning Brakes
I bought a snap on for a few dollars over cost in tax free Oregon!
My only advice - hand thread the nuts to get them started and buy more gun than you think you will need
Breakaway goes away with weak battery and if you have to resort to manual tools to break the nut loose then what is the point
Oh and an extra battery as everyone will want to borrow it
My only advice - hand thread the nuts to get them started and buy more gun than you think you will need
Breakaway goes away with weak battery and if you have to resort to manual tools to break the nut loose then what is the point
Oh and an extra battery as everyone will want to borrow it
#22
Rennlist Member
I have the race series studs listed here:
http://www.apexcompetition.com/ProductInfo/index.cfm
Although if I could do it over again I would take mark's advice and get the bullet tipped ones with ball seat nuts if you are currently using Porsche wheel bolts
I cannot speak to other cordless impact guns but if you search this forum and the de forum there are a lot of choices and opinions
I bought this kit for $475 which is a lot of money but my experience is that if you buy quality, then you usually buy once. The longacre one gets good reviews well.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=19913
Lastly I bought a couple thin wall deep plastic coated impact sockets from Mac tools
http://www.mactools.com/product/tabi...-svpt116b.aspx
http://www.apexcompetition.com/ProductInfo/index.cfm
Although if I could do it over again I would take mark's advice and get the bullet tipped ones with ball seat nuts if you are currently using Porsche wheel bolts
I cannot speak to other cordless impact guns but if you search this forum and the de forum there are a lot of choices and opinions
I bought this kit for $475 which is a lot of money but my experience is that if you buy quality, then you usually buy once. The longacre one gets good reviews well.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=19913
Lastly I bought a couple thin wall deep plastic coated impact sockets from Mac tools
http://www.mactools.com/product/tabi...-svpt116b.aspx
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I picked up a Craftsman cordless impact driver today at Sears. $170. Included a carrying case, charger, two batteries (19.2 volts), and an extension socket.
I had never used an impact driver before. Kind of freaked me out the first time I tried to back out a bolt. Nothing happened for the first second or two and there was a lot of noise, and then boom.... The bolts spin right out!
Going back in was just as easy. Hand threaded first and held the trigger lightly so that it moves slowly preventing the bolt from slamming in and over tq'ing. I tried it a few different times. This gun produces 200 foot pounds. Plenty for taking the bolts out but could be a bit much for putting them in so I was careful. I only let it go into "impact mode" for a half second or so.
By the reading on my tq wrench, that half second of impact mode (vs the slow regular turning) was putting them in at about 70 pounds. Finished the rest of the tightening with the tq wrench to 96.
I wish I had done this a long time ago. Wow is this so much easier!!! $$$ well spent. What a time saver.
I had never used an impact driver before. Kind of freaked me out the first time I tried to back out a bolt. Nothing happened for the first second or two and there was a lot of noise, and then boom.... The bolts spin right out!
Going back in was just as easy. Hand threaded first and held the trigger lightly so that it moves slowly preventing the bolt from slamming in and over tq'ing. I tried it a few different times. This gun produces 200 foot pounds. Plenty for taking the bolts out but could be a bit much for putting them in so I was careful. I only let it go into "impact mode" for a half second or so.
By the reading on my tq wrench, that half second of impact mode (vs the slow regular turning) was putting them in at about 70 pounds. Finished the rest of the tightening with the tq wrench to 96.
I wish I had done this a long time ago. Wow is this so much easier!!! $$$ well spent. What a time saver.
#25
Wheels studs should be installed using thread lock of some type, most use red loctite. If you get the hex insert kind, you can use the hex wrench and pull it really tight. But the recommended method (for hex or bullet nose), is to torque them on using 2 nuts - to about 20 ft/lbs.
Cordless impact wrenches are great for removing, but you should always final torque with a proper wrench. You should ALWAYS hand start the nuts before you run them up with an impact wrench. Two or three clicks and then stop the gun. Over-torquing with a gun can be really bad. Including cracks, premature metal fatigue or snapping a bolt. Getting them out when broken is a huge PITA, you need a torch and some EZ Outs.
As for the studs themselves, be sure you get at least 80mm. I have the race studs rather than performance. Bullet nose is also good, but expensive. Porsche uses 14X1.5 stud. Get the nuts that work with your rims. If you have OEM and BBS, you might need both ball and conical. http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/StoreFront
-td
Cordless impact wrenches are great for removing, but you should always final torque with a proper wrench. You should ALWAYS hand start the nuts before you run them up with an impact wrench. Two or three clicks and then stop the gun. Over-torquing with a gun can be really bad. Including cracks, premature metal fatigue or snapping a bolt. Getting them out when broken is a huge PITA, you need a torch and some EZ Outs.
As for the studs themselves, be sure you get at least 80mm. I have the race studs rather than performance. Bullet nose is also good, but expensive. Porsche uses 14X1.5 stud. Get the nuts that work with your rims. If you have OEM and BBS, you might need both ball and conical. http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/StoreFront
-td
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
As for the studs themselves, be sure you get at least 80mm. I have the race studs rather than performance. Bullet nose is also good, but expensive. Porsche uses 14X1.5 stud. Get the nuts that work with your rims. If you have OEM and BBS, you might need both ball and conical. http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/StoreFront
-td
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
As for the studs themselves, be sure you get at least 80mm. I have the race studs rather than performance. Bullet nose is also good, but expensive. Porsche uses 14X1.5 stud. Get the nuts that work with your rims. If you have OEM and BBS, you might need both ball and conical. http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/StoreFront
-td
This: http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/th...ce-Stud/Detail
Or This: http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/th...Nose%27/Detail
The bullet nose appear to be less expensive... However, they are longer to accommodate the nose.
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Correction. They 81mm bullet nose are .30 more and the 90mm are about a dollar more. If you went bullet, what size would you get? Assuming you would need the 91mm to get enough thread. Then again I have no idea what I'm talking about
#29
Nordschleife Master
Lots of info here https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-any-good.html Last post is mine with pics of my setup as reference. You can see how much of the stud sticks out with the 81.
Bullet-nose is overkill, but I like having the bullet to protect the first thread when/if I bang the wheel against the stud.