deputydog95

I looked at the apex site. They have a million different sizes and at least 3 different models. Which ones?

P.J.S.

I cannot remember the length but I just called them

deputydog95

Poking around looking at cordless impact drivers. That might be a nice addition to the tool box for these tire changes. Once again, there are nine zillion options. So confusing...

P.J.S.

I bought a snap on for a few dollars over cost in tax free Oregon!

My only advice - hand thread the nuts to get them started and buy more gun than you think you will need

Breakaway goes away with weak battery and if you have to resort to manual tools to break the nut loose then what is the point

Oh and an extra battery as everyone will want to borrow it

Doc GTO

So is this a good choice for occasion street use and 8-12 DEs/year???
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...%32%30%20studs

Also, the 997 wheels have a ball seat, not a conical seat correct???

Doc GTO

Yes and Yes. I got one this year for the holidays and it is the "****!!!" You will want at least 200-240 ft/lbs force so you can break them loose even though we torque to 100, ect. My corded version will break up to 450ft/lbs.

P.J.S.

I have the race series studs listed here:
http://www.apexcompetition.com/ProductInfo/index.cfm

Although if I could do it over again I would take mark's advice and get the bullet tipped ones with ball seat nuts if you are currently using Porsche wheel bolts

I cannot speak to other cordless impact guns but if you search this forum and the de forum there are a lot of choices and opinions

I bought this kit for $475 which is a lot of money but my experience is that if you buy quality, then you usually buy once. The longacre one gets good reviews well.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=19913

Lastly I bought a couple thin wall deep plastic coated impact sockets from Mac tools

http://www.mactools.com/product/tabi...-svpt116b.aspx

tcsracing1

http://store.cdoc.com/

deputydog95

I picked up a Craftsman cordless impact driver today at Sears. $170. Included a carrying case, charger, two batteries (19.2 volts), and an extension socket.

I had never used an impact driver before. Kind of freaked me out the first time I tried to back out a bolt. Nothing happened for the first second or two and there was a lot of noise, and then boom.... The bolts spin right out!

Going back in was just as easy. Hand threaded first and held the trigger lightly so that it moves slowly preventing the bolt from slamming in and over tq'ing. I tried it a few different times. This gun produces 200 foot pounds. Plenty for taking the bolts out but could be a bit much for putting them in so I was careful. I only let it go into "impact mode" for a half second or so.

By the reading on my tq wrench, that half second of impact mode (vs the slow regular turning) was putting them in at about 70 pounds. Finished the rest of the tightening with the tq wrench to 96.

I wish I had done this a long time ago. Wow is this so much easier!!! $$$ well spent. What a time saver.

himself

Wheels studs should be installed using thread lock of some type, most use red loctite. If you get the hex insert kind, you can use the hex wrench and pull it really tight. But the recommended method (for hex or bullet nose), is to torque them on using 2 nuts - to about 20 ft/lbs.

Cordless impact wrenches are great for removing, but you should always final torque with a proper wrench. You should ALWAYS hand start the nuts before you run them up with an impact wrench. Two or three clicks and then stop the gun. Over-torquing with a gun can be really bad. Including cracks, premature metal fatigue or snapping a bolt. Getting them out when broken is a huge PITA, you need a torch and some EZ Outs.

As for the studs themselves, be sure you get at least 80mm. I have the race studs rather than performance. Bullet nose is also good, but expensive. Porsche uses 14X1.5 stud. Get the nuts that work with your rims. If you have OEM and BBS, you might need both ball and conical. http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/StoreFront

-td

deputydog95

I have OEM and CCW wheels. I use the same OEM lug bolts for both so I'm assuming I just need ball nuts.

deputydog95

Which ones are you using?

This: http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/th...ce-Stud/Detail

Or This: http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/th...Nose%27/Detail


The bullet nose appear to be less expensive... However, they are longer to accommodate the nose.

deputydog95

Correction. They 81mm bullet nose are .30 more and the 90mm are about a dollar more. If you went bullet, what size would you get? Assuming you would need the 91mm to get enough thread. Then again I have no idea what I'm talking about

FFaust

Correct.

I got the 81mm Pro series with bullet-nose. I use both stock and OZ wheels, and both use the same length studs/bolts and ball nuts. Both wheels are the same thickness.

Lots of info here https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-any-good.html Last post is mine with pics of my setup as reference. You can see how much of the stud sticks out with the 81.

Bullet-nose is overkill, but I like having the bullet to protect the first thread when/if I bang the wheel against the stud.

FFaust

Here's how to measure https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...ml#post8471522