For those with old school wheel bolts, anyone switched to lugs?
06-03-2011, 08:27 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For those with old school wheel bolts, anyone switched to lugs?
Saw the kit at rennline. http://www.rennline.com/Wheel-Stud-C...ductinfo/LS01/
Not terribly expensive and would certainly make tire changes easier.
Any disadvantages or danger going with a set like this?
What keeps the studs themselves from backing out?
Not terribly expensive and would certainly make tire changes easier.
Any disadvantages or danger going with a set like this?
What keeps the studs themselves from backing out?
06-03-2011, 08:30 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have a couple of the guides. However, it is an extra step to screw those in and then unscrew them to put the bolts in. I'm a little lazy. Can you tell? 
What keeps the studs from backing out? Do you have to lock tight them?
What keeps the studs from backing out? Do you have to lock tight them?
06-03-2011, 08:36 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
I don't have this exact kit but I have studs from apex and would not go back to wheel bolts
Everything about studs is easier
Stud conversion is a no brainer IMHO
Knock on wood nothing broken in 2 years
Everything about studs is easier
Stud conversion is a no brainer IMHO
Knock on wood nothing broken in 2 years
Last edited by P.J.S.; 06-03-2011 at 10:05 PM.
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06-03-2011, 10:09 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Not to mention the soft alum threads of the "wheel carrier" that the wheel bolts go into - not designed for a large quantity of wheel changes... With studs you thread them in with a little loc-tite and reduce the chance of damage to the carrier threads
And I keep a couple extra studs in the trailer - if one breaks you just thread two nuts on and back the stud out and replace it
And I keep a couple extra studs in the trailer - if one breaks you just thread two nuts on and back the stud out and replace it
06-04-2011, 08:19 AM
#10
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Make sure you get something like the Apex Race or Pro Series. These have the bullet type ends rather than being threaded all the way to the end of the stud. This works much better. You can get them from CDOC or www.track-studs.com
06-04-2011, 08:34 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Make sure you get something like the Apex Race or Pro Series. These have the bullet type ends rather than being threaded all the way to the end of the stud. This works much better. You can get them from CDOC or www.track-studs.com
06-04-2011, 08:39 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Not to mention the soft alum threads of the "wheel carrier" that the wheel bolts go into - not designed for a large quantity of wheel changes... With studs you thread them in with a little loc-tite and reduce the chance of damage to the carrier threads
Yet, some of the guys that track a lot have not had any problems with the bolts, as long as you screw them in the first part by hand.
Caliper bolts are more likely to strip out the uprights, but that's another topic ;-)
06-04-2011, 08:50 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
That's why I did it, but I was not comfortable installing them myself and I had one come loose and it brake a couple of studs. I also damaged the thread on one stud by sliding the wheel over.
Yet, some of the guys that track a lot have not had any problems with the bolts, as long as you screw them in the first part by hand.
Caliper bolts are more likely to strip out the uprights, but that's another topic ;-)
Yet, some of the guys that track a lot have not had any problems with the bolts, as long as you screw them in the first part by hand.
Caliper bolts are more likely to strip out the uprights, but that's another topic ;-)
How hard can the install be on these studs? Looks like they thread in using an allen, and then torque to a certain spec with loc-tite. Am I over simplifying this?