- i think the ceramics are good for about 70 days (thats my guess)
- you can use re-use the calipers with iron replacements
- there are a few iron replacement solutions (Brembo & others)
- full set of ceramics is about $14k
- full iron Brembo replacement is about $4k (runs a different front pad)

- so the real question is do ceramics last 3X as long as Brembo replacements

 

My 996 GT3 had 60,000 miles on it : the first 12,000 was 100% track (after break in). after that the next 4 years about 20-23 track days a year. rear rotors were still very smooth. I did replace the fronts at 26K with GEN II which were perfect at 60K.

 

I dont think you need to replace the calipers or the pads (although the latter is your choice) there are a number of aftermarket solutions available, all they
need is the correct "hat" with the appropriate offset to enable the steel
rotor to fit with the PCCB calipers

 

Do you have to remove the the orginal little air vent that is capturing air coming from the vent that is in the underside panel?
also if you are worried about rubber boogers or stones deflecting into the rotor I wonder if you could put an inlet screen on it. I want to order, is this the the same as the suncost version? and do they have them in stock or is it going to be get in line?

 

Roberga, Were you using OEM P40 pads or Motorsports P50?
I've gone through 3 sets of OEM pads on roughly 18 track days and several autoxs. I'm thinking of switching to P50s

 

- OE pads last (rears at least) last about 4 days depending on track
- fronts last a 2 days longer

- P50 motorsport pads last about 2X longer + they give better initial bite

- if you track as much as it looks like you do, order the P50 pads and the rear ducts asap + disable TC while you are on the track - trust me you will not be disappointed

- everytime I give a fellow driver a ride in my car the first thing they always comment on is the brakes - usually they are in dis-belief and this is from people who have tracked many times


Paul

 

Here are some more pics. I am posting via Webmail, so will keep it short....Hopefully gives an idea how much exposure there is in the inlet portion.

 

Last set of pics...

 

I dont think you have to remove the underside flaps, and yes this is the
same as the Suncoast offering ...

dont see why you couldnt glue something over the inlet if you are concerned

 

Thanks for posting, I hope to install mine next week.

 

Did you have any trouble fitting them, as when my guys tried, they couldn't get the bolts in, the lower arm is slightly tapered.

They said they will have to trim a bit of the plastic away...


G.

 

P50 for 40,000 of the miles. The greens are P-50 in the front but the rears are still P-40 material and are thicker than the black P-40. With the the rears last even longer.

 

No issues whatsoever on the install, 15 minutes, if that long. Looked like a snug fit. The upper mounting bracket was put into place on the control arm, and then the actual duct was attached to the bracket.

Got them from Suncoast, installed at GMG in Santa Ana, CA. All the part numbers were as per listed above earlier on this topic. Hope this helps.

 

Sweet, this is a must do mod. you can't afford not to if it extends pad life. I often wondered why my front rotors cracked from heat shock and looked worse than the rear but the rear pads did not last as long. Now I wonder if this added cooling will help with pad life but add to rear rotor shock and enhanced cracking? I guess we will find out.

 

+1


Just ordered mine, maybe I'll get them by next week as well.....