rear brake cooling solution
08-11-2009, 03:42 PM
#136
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Thread Starter
08-11-2009, 03:43 PM
#137
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Thread Starter
08-12-2009, 02:24 AM
#138
Why any Porsche dealer would waste staff time and processing costs to order these things from the factory is beyond me. Any decent Wurth box should be overflowing with this stuff.
08-12-2009, 02:35 AM
#139
No, that's the underside of a friend's '10 GT3 ... I'm now curious to understand why the scoops aren't on the arms? I just looked at more recent photos of the same car and the scoops are there on the arms. Fortunately, I know the tech that PDI'd the car, so I'll ask him to explain -- perhaps the scoops arrive uninstalled with the car (like the chin spoiler or because they were a late change on these launch cars?)
08-12-2009, 09:16 AM
#140
Rennlist Member
FYI, I drove my car home yesterday from FVD, the rear ducts are great, easy fit and look meant to be there..
No expert, but I think we have to much heat in the rear, if the brown VS red calipers are a good temp indicator, in that case get them.
The fonts had to be trimmed little to fit inside the front wheel and are very low, they scrape before the CUP spoiler scrapes. I drove home with 2 extra rotors in the trunk on 18" Hoosiers and they scraped on the slightest wave in the road until the tire pressure came up and or lost about 1/2" of the bottom and now they do not scrape at all with my stock wheels. :-)
Not sure how much extra cooling the fronts give and if they will last on the street and Sebring but I wanted to try if they fit.
I hope to go to Sebring next week and I will find out how much is left of them after that.
No expert, but I think we have to much heat in the rear, if the brown VS red calipers are a good temp indicator, in that case get them.
The fonts had to be trimmed little to fit inside the front wheel and are very low, they scrape before the CUP spoiler scrapes. I drove home with 2 extra rotors in the trunk on 18" Hoosiers and they scraped on the slightest wave in the road until the tire pressure came up and or lost about 1/2" of the bottom and now they do not scrape at all with my stock wheels. :-)
Not sure how much extra cooling the fronts give and if they will last on the street and Sebring but I wanted to try if they fit.
I hope to go to Sebring next week and I will find out how much is left of them after that.
08-12-2009, 04:41 PM
#141
Nordschleife Master
The new duct is about a 5 minute job not including trimming the tin guard.
08-12-2009, 06:05 PM
#142
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Thread Starter
08-12-2009, 06:19 PM
#144
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Thread Starter
08-12-2009, 11:37 PM
#145
By the end of the second session, the scraping was over!However, it looks like the rear ducts are complete non-brainer.
08-13-2009, 08:54 AM
#146
Rennlist Member
I put those on my car also (which is also a daily driver). My first session at Sebring with the ducts I got a mechanical black flag. Apparently ever brake zone I went into the front ducts scraped and the corner workers thought something was loose and dragging. By the end of the second session, the scraping was over!
However, it looks like the rear ducts are complete non-brainer.
However, it looks like the rear ducts are complete non-brainer.
I'm catching all the bumps on the way to and from work prepping for Sebring...
08-13-2009, 01:49 PM
#147
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Thread Starter
I put those on my car also (which is also a daily driver). My first session at Sebring with the ducts I got a mechanical black flag. Apparently ever brake zone I went into the front ducts scraped and the corner workers thought something was loose and dragging. By the end of the second session, the scraping was over!
However, it looks like the rear ducts are complete non-brainer.
By the end of the second session, the scraping was over!However, it looks like the rear ducts are complete non-brainer.
On a related matter, any '10 owners care to try and get a shot of your
brake shields, in the absence of an '10 PET we cant tell if the .1 and .2 shields
are the same or different, I would prefer not to cut mine when I install the
shields!
08-21-2009, 02:50 PM
#148
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Thread Starter
08-21-2009, 07:25 PM
#149
Instructor
You certainly cannot remove the shields without removing the calipers and rotors. There are 4 bolts that hold the shields in place that are only accessible once you remove the rotor.
You can however trim the shield without removing the rotors. You need the car on a lift (or on jackstands). I used my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel after putting the ducts in place and using a pencil to trace the amount of duct to remove. Took maybe 10 minutes per side.
I just came back from 5 days on Road America (serious braking on 3 long straights per lap), plus 3 days at Mid Ohio and can report that the rear pad wear was impressive. The rear rotors that had about 25 track days on them were cracking between holes on the outside, but when removed, showed almost no cracking on the inside. Personally, I think these ducts will pay for themselves in pad and rotor wear in less than one season. No brainer as someone else said.
The frequent removal of rear rotors for pad replacement finally caused me to strip the rear caliper threads though. I have been EXTREMELY careful about proper torque since I have owned the car. During my trip, between Road America and Mid Ohio, I replaced the rear pads, no problem. When I got home and decided to replace the rear rotors, one of the bolts came out with about 2 1/2 threads of aluminum on it. I thought to myself "this can't be good". When I replaced the bolt, it stripped at about 20 ft-lbs. My shop (AutoTherapy in Rockville, MD) came to the rescue. I now have all 4 rear bolts firmly installed in Timecerts. I am thinking this is a smart proactive move for all of us 997 GT3 track drivers.
You can however trim the shield without removing the rotors. You need the car on a lift (or on jackstands). I used my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel after putting the ducts in place and using a pencil to trace the amount of duct to remove. Took maybe 10 minutes per side.
I just came back from 5 days on Road America (serious braking on 3 long straights per lap), plus 3 days at Mid Ohio and can report that the rear pad wear was impressive. The rear rotors that had about 25 track days on them were cracking between holes on the outside, but when removed, showed almost no cracking on the inside. Personally, I think these ducts will pay for themselves in pad and rotor wear in less than one season. No brainer as someone else said.
The frequent removal of rear rotors for pad replacement finally caused me to strip the rear caliper threads though. I have been EXTREMELY careful about proper torque since I have owned the car. During my trip, between Road America and Mid Ohio, I replaced the rear pads, no problem. When I got home and decided to replace the rear rotors, one of the bolts came out with about 2 1/2 threads of aluminum on it. I thought to myself "this can't be good". When I replaced the bolt, it stripped at about 20 ft-lbs. My shop (AutoTherapy in Rockville, MD) came to the rescue. I now have all 4 rear bolts firmly installed in Timecerts. I am thinking this is a smart proactive move for all of us 997 GT3 track drivers.
08-21-2009, 07:33 PM
#150
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You certainly cannot remove the shields without removing the calipers and rotors. There are 4 bolts that hold the shields in place that are only accessible once you remove the rotor.
You can however trim the shield without removing the rotors. You need the car on a lift (or on jackstands). I used my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel after putting the ducts in place and using a pencil to trace the amount of duct to remove. Took maybe 10 minutes per side.
I just came back from 5 days on Road America (serious braking on 3 long straights per lap), plus 3 days at Mid Ohio and can report that the rear pad wear was impressive. The rear rotors that had about 25 track days on them were cracking between holes on the outside, but when removed, showed almost no cracking on the inside. Personally, I think these ducts will pay for themselves in pad and rotor wear in less than one season. No brainer as someone else said.
.
You can however trim the shield without removing the rotors. You need the car on a lift (or on jackstands). I used my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel after putting the ducts in place and using a pencil to trace the amount of duct to remove. Took maybe 10 minutes per side.
I just came back from 5 days on Road America (serious braking on 3 long straights per lap), plus 3 days at Mid Ohio and can report that the rear pad wear was impressive. The rear rotors that had about 25 track days on them were cracking between holes on the outside, but when removed, showed almost no cracking on the inside. Personally, I think these ducts will pay for themselves in pad and rotor wear in less than one season. No brainer as someone else said.
.
which how did you protect the surface of the rotor, I'd hate to try and trim the
shield and scar my PCCB's with the dremmel?