rear brake cooling solution
#79
Seems like a primitive device. I was expecting something that sneaked into the core of the rotor past the drive shaft (always a challenge.) Then again, how far away are we from using heat exchangers on the backs of the pads? Or very high pressure air releases into the vanes of the rotor to expel brake dust from clogging up the air flow? Maybe miniature nitrous shots through the pads just as the brakes are at peak force to combat soak at the instant heat is being generated?
#80
It's fitted as standard on the .2 however it can be retrofitted onto the .1 although
it would seem from the suncoast site/picture that the rotor shields need to be
trimmed ...
I am trying to find the .2 p/n's for the shields thus obviating the trimming ...
I will post when/if I get them
it would seem from the suncoast site/picture that the rotor shields need to be
trimmed ...
I am trying to find the .2 p/n's for the shields thus obviating the trimming ...
I will post when/if I get them
#81
Just got back, and did not notice the above posts regarding the issue with the shield. I had them installed this morning at GMG. No problems whatsoever on the install, but we were not looking at any potential issues with the shield blocking some of the airflow. Here are some photos of the duct and shield. From these photos, looks like some blockage on the rear portion of the shield. I will go back to GMG and take a closer look at the situation. At this stage, not 100% efficient, but I suppose I will have to decide whether to remove the shields, modify them, or to put the gen. II shields on for maximum effect.
#82
I could be wrong, but from those photos it looks as though you might not have the shields installed!
Either that or they cut them, or the '08's have a different shield shape ... take a peek at the
suncoast picture on page 5 of the thread for details ... it might not matter, but if you are going to the
trouble of installing them we probably want the max flow ...
If it turns out the shields are different on the '10 (which they probably will be) I'll post the p/n's here ...
we've got viperbob on the case!
carbon wheels ... nice!!! tell us more!!!
is that Cobalt Blue I see? simply the fastest GT3 color there is!
Either that or they cut them, or the '08's have a different shield shape ... take a peek at the
suncoast picture on page 5 of the thread for details ... it might not matter, but if you are going to the
trouble of installing them we probably want the max flow ...
If it turns out the shields are different on the '10 (which they probably will be) I'll post the p/n's here ...
we've got viperbob on the case!
carbon wheels ... nice!!! tell us more!!!
is that Cobalt Blue I see? simply the fastest GT3 color there is!
#83
Here is a photo of the shield, with the upper mounting bracket in place. There wasn't enough time to modify the shields, that is for sure. It was a 15 minute job to mount them. Will respond when I have more time later.
#84
the proof I think will be if the 997.2 p/n for the shield differs from the .1 ...
which is: 996.352.801.03
#85
- any and all airflow will help dramatically with rear rotor temps (so even without triming this is better than nothing)
- find it interesting that it appears they are aiming the airflow towards the center of the rotor (not outer edge) as virtually everyone has reported a "wedge" wear pattern in their track pads (the thinner part being towards the center of the rotor)
- my guess is that you want to trim that part of the shield away to get added airflow to the middle of the rotor
- that said (and this is a big one) for those with ceramic rotors you could be helping aim a 100+ mph projectile at your $4,000 ceramic rotors when you install these ducts (of course probability wise they would have to enter the input side of the duct (small chance - maybe no bigger than going off track and hitting the perfect stone)
- i will be installing them and i do have ceramics
paul
ps - thanks for the pics
- find it interesting that it appears they are aiming the airflow towards the center of the rotor (not outer edge) as virtually everyone has reported a "wedge" wear pattern in their track pads (the thinner part being towards the center of the rotor)
- my guess is that you want to trim that part of the shield away to get added airflow to the middle of the rotor
- that said (and this is a big one) for those with ceramic rotors you could be helping aim a 100+ mph projectile at your $4,000 ceramic rotors when you install these ducts (of course probability wise they would have to enter the input side of the duct (small chance - maybe no bigger than going off track and hitting the perfect stone)
- i will be installing them and i do have ceramics
paul
ps - thanks for the pics
#86
- any and all airflow will help dramatically with rear rotor temps (so even without triming this is better than nothing)
- find it interesting that it appears they are aiming the airflow towards the center of the rotor (not outer edge) as virtually everyone has reported a "wedge" wear pattern in their track pads (the thinner part being towards the center of the rotor)
- my guess is that you want to trim that part of the shield away to get added airflow to the middle of the rotor
- that said (and this is a big one) for those with ceramic rotors you could be helping aim a 100+ mph projectile at your $4,000 ceramic rotors when you install these ducts (of course probability wise they would have to enter the input side of the duct (small chance - maybe no bigger than going off track and hitting the perfect stone)
- i will be installing them and i do have ceramics
paul
ps - thanks for the pics
- find it interesting that it appears they are aiming the airflow towards the center of the rotor (not outer edge) as virtually everyone has reported a "wedge" wear pattern in their track pads (the thinner part being towards the center of the rotor)
- my guess is that you want to trim that part of the shield away to get added airflow to the middle of the rotor
- that said (and this is a big one) for those with ceramic rotors you could be helping aim a 100+ mph projectile at your $4,000 ceramic rotors when you install these ducts (of course probability wise they would have to enter the input side of the duct (small chance - maybe no bigger than going off track and hitting the perfect stone)
- i will be installing them and i do have ceramics
paul
ps - thanks for the pics
#87
I would assume that if you could supply adequate volumes of air to the rotor center hub, centrifugal force and the internal rotor vane geometry would pump the air to the perimeter very effectivly. The rotor itself should make an excellent pump.
At Calabogie last week, I noticed paint overtemp signs on the rear pad backing plates.
Thanks all for the info, mine are on the way, ceramics also
At Calabogie last week, I noticed paint overtemp signs on the rear pad backing plates.
Thanks all for the info, mine are on the way, ceramics also
#88
If you email it to me, I'll add it to this page:
http://www.gt3rsregistry.com/docs/docs.htm
pm sent
There aren't any links to this page on the registry,
so you may want to bookmark it.
#89
Amen to that.
I think similar thoughts every time I add another RS to the registry with full leather, navigation with DVD, chrono dash wart, telephone module, and leather seat belt buckles.
Only 2 out of the 413 sent to the USA were ordered without air conditioning. Only a few have the lighter halogen headlights.
I have yet to see a USA RS with the front section of the roll cage installed. I would guess that 1 in 25 RoW cars have a full cage.
I think similar thoughts every time I add another RS to the registry with full leather, navigation with DVD, chrono dash wart, telephone module, and leather seat belt buckles.
Only 2 out of the 413 sent to the USA were ordered without air conditioning. Only a few have the lighter halogen headlights.
I have yet to see a USA RS with the front section of the roll cage installed. I would guess that 1 in 25 RoW cars have a full cage.
Had a good chat with Andreas at the Silverstone event.
He's a very worthy custodian of Porsche GT cars.
For those of us who want faster, lighter more track biased GT3/RS's, the best thing you can do is persuade anybody who wants the comfort options to buy a carrera or turbo (or a panamera) and leave the GT3's and RS's for those who get their kicks on track.
Incidentally the next RS is about 6 weeks away from announcement.
He's a very worthy custodian of Porsche GT cars.
For those of us who want faster, lighter more track biased GT3/RS's, the best thing you can do is persuade anybody who wants the comfort options to buy a carrera or turbo (or a panamera) and leave the GT3's and RS's for those who get their kicks on track.
Incidentally the next RS is about 6 weeks away from announcement.
#90
Has anyone gone through there PCCB rotors yet. I'm about 13 - 15 track days into mine. So far so good. 2nd set of pads.
Are you guys who track your PCCB's thinking of replacing with steel or just bite the $bullet
and see how long they last?
It must be fairly expensive to replace with steel. I believe calipers are needed as well.
Worth it?
Are you guys who track your PCCB's thinking of replacing with steel or just bite the $bullet
and see how long they last?
It must be fairly expensive to replace with steel. I believe calipers are needed as well.
Worth it?