SR20Fastback

Wow, that is one hell of a list of upgrades to do at once. Can’t wait to hear the impressions, and my condolences to your wallet.

SR20Fastback

Has anyone done the GT2 or GT2RS 6th? I like the idea of a little extra RPM for road trips as my closest track is 6 hours away, and I do usually one cross country trip a year.

RAudi Driver

LOL, you're going to have no idea what's doing what. It's going to be a drastic difference. What a treat.

jreifler

Yeah. That’s bonkers. I thought I was going all in at once with just half that list . . .

Gonna be incredible.

Brian Himmelman

does anyone know anything else while engine is out ie what a cam actuator bolts and what has to be done to correct? tks

JpCrp

Lots of options: loctite, larger M7 bolts instead of the factory M6 bolts, aircraft safety wire, tack welds, or Dundon harmonic balancer are the most common options.

jreifler

Go ahead and do plugs / packs, water pump, all coolant lines (if not already included in SW kit), expansion tank, new belts, thermostat.

Cam bolts on .1RS are not a known issue. Can inspect and remediate if you want, but I don’t think it’s a major issue.

Edit - Also front and rear main seals if you have leaks or just want to be super proactive.

jreifler

Anyone know the thickness spec for a new .1RS clutch disc ? Mine measures ~8mm. Felt fine. No slipping. No shudder. Just trying to be proactive and consider what to do while the box is off.

jreifler

Just wanted to update as I got the car back after a long month of waiting. As others have attested - totally transformed. Truly feels like a car with 50 ft/lb more torque. I wound up going with the full RS 4.0 treatment, and glad I did. For others who’ve asked if the slightly lighter 4.0 flywheel makes a noticeable difference to the 7.1RS unit, I can’t say that it really did. It feels maybe just a bit zippier, but it’s nominal.

However, the entire experience felt through the drivetrain is definitely somehow smoother. Not sure what that’s about. I got new synchros due to some premature wear, so maybe that aided ? Regardless, the net result is fantastic. Pulls so much more quickly through the gears. Really amps up around town enjoyment. Guard diff also massive, massive improvement. Rear end so planted. It waggled a bit under super hard high speed braking before. Now straight as an arrow. And absolutely stuck to the road on turn-in and exit. Great mod.

Lastly, I shopped around for the 4.0 FW and clutch package, and between FVD and Sierra Madre, found the FW for $580 and the pressure plate for $880. Both quite a bit cheaper than others I searched.

Hamhands

I’ve got the RS R&P I never used in my car brand new if someone wants to avoid international shipping.

Vocan

That's great to hear, congrats! With the upgrades, how does the power delivery feel compared to your prior .2?

jreifler

Good question. I think it closed the gap a good bit. 3.8 definitely still had a more violent mid-RPM pull, but between the normal 7.2 final drive and mine now with the LWFW, I think the hp/tq delta is probably unnoticeable unless you drove back to back. Even then it might be almost equal.

I'm definitely going to have to adjust to the shift point change. On my regular switchback-filled forest drive, I was upshifting to 4th much sooner on the straights. I kept wanting to go into 2nd as I used to do for tight 90 degree bends, but I really didn't need to. It rockets out in 3rd now. I for sure think it's a 3-4-5 car on any track now.

KingSize.Hamster

I bit the bullet and ordered the 3.89 R/P + taller 6th for my base GT3.

Now I'm planning ahead for "while we are at it" stuff -- particularly the synchros as I got the car used, and have no idea how well the previous owner drove it despite relatively low mileage of 10,000 miles. The gearbox has no noticeable issues in shifting.

I'm thinking only replacing 2nd and 3rd gear synchros only, given the low likelihood that the higher gears would have a problem. I do double clutch into first gear on streets, as I don't always wait for the car to come to a complete stop before jamming shifter into 1st. Or should I do 1st and 2nd instead?

With that in mind:

1. Looking at part numbers online, do all gears come with steel rings for these 997.2 cars from the factory? Seems like some threads are saying 1st and 2nd are brass, but then I couldn't really find those part numbers. If some are brass, will changing 2nd to steel help with durability without major sacrifice to street driveability?

2. Do I replace the ring+cone for 1st and 2nd gears, and ring-only for 3rd? Or are the cones usually not something that wears out that easily/quickly. Part numbers:

• 95030461311 - Cone for 1st & 2nd (~US$450 a piece?)
• 95030461120 - Ring for 1st & end (~US$100 a piece)
• 92830421130 - Ring for 3rd to 6th (~US$100 a piece)

3. Has anyone tried the synchros from Rauch & Spiegel instead of factory/OEM ones on their 997 cars? (theirs seem to have "carbon" in their synchros as well)

The car is expected to be driven on the street mostly. Just looking to get something more durable and keep the shifts enjoyable, while not adding a horrendous amount of NVH to the car.

Thanks in advance

jbse39

I replaced brass synchros with steel and there was no noticeable NVH added.

Broncozx

I have the turbo 6th. With the rs end gear. I believe that is 0.79. The rpm dropped 500, so i feel better on the highway. The gt2 is 0.74 i think, ?