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RS 3.89 R&P and 6th gear conversion..

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Old 05-11-2024, 08:28 PM
  #106  
SR20Fastback
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Originally Posted by Brian Himmelman

should have my Euro spec 07 RS back next week with 3.89 r&p, 6th gear, Guard LSD clutch pack, Sharkwerks 4.0 clutch flywheel kit, Sharkwerks kit coolant lines pinned, Dundon headers and full D4 package -35lbs plus 40hp and 25lbs tq, Function First shifter kit and cable ends, surface transforms rotors and Pagid pads, OZ Superforgiata wheels -35lbs, Antigravity lithium battery -35lbs, new OEM engine mounts, OEM titanium RS center muffler -8lbs

can’t wait to report

Wow, that is one hell of a list of upgrades to do at once. Can’t wait to hear the impressions, and my condolences to your wallet.
Old 05-11-2024, 08:29 PM
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Has anyone done the GT2 or GT2RS 6th? I like the idea of a little extra RPM for road trips as my closest track is 6 hours away, and I do usually one cross country trip a year.
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Old 05-12-2024, 06:31 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Brian Himmelman

should have my Euro spec 07 RS back next week with 3.89 r&p, 6th gear, Guard LSD clutch pack, Sharkwerks 4.0 clutch flywheel kit, Sharkwerks kit coolant lines pinned, Dundon headers and full D4 package -35lbs plus 40hp and 25lbs tq, Function First shifter kit and cable ends, surface transforms rotors and Pagid pads, OZ Superforgiata wheels -35lbs, Antigravity lithium battery -35lbs, new OEM engine mounts, OEM titanium RS center muffler -8lbs

can’t wait to report

LOL, you're going to have no idea what's doing what. It's going to be a drastic difference. What a treat.
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Old 05-12-2024, 07:04 PM
  #109  
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Yeah. That’s bonkers. I thought I was going all in at once with just half that list . . .

Gonna be incredible.
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Old 05-12-2024, 07:54 PM
  #110  
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does anyone know anything else while engine is out ie what a cam actuator bolts and what has to be done to correct? tks
Old 05-12-2024, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Himmelman
does anyone know anything else while engine is out ie what a cam actuator bolts and what has to be done to correct? tks
Lots of options: loctite, larger M7 bolts instead of the factory M6 bolts, aircraft safety wire, tack welds, or Dundon harmonic balancer are the most common options.

Last edited by JpCrp; 05-12-2024 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 05-12-2024, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Himmelman
does anyone know anything else while engine is out ie what a cam actuator bolts and what has to be done to correct? tks
Go ahead and do plugs / packs, water pump, all coolant lines (if not already included in SW kit), expansion tank, new belts, thermostat.

Cam bolts on .1RS are not a known issue. Can inspect and remediate if you want, but I don’t think it’s a major issue.

Edit - Also front and rear main seals if you have leaks or just want to be super proactive.

Last edited by jreifler; 05-13-2024 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 05-15-2024, 11:19 PM
  #113  
jreifler
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Anyone know the thickness spec for a new .1RS clutch disc ? Mine measures ~8mm. Felt fine. No slipping. No shudder. Just trying to be proactive and consider what to do while the box is off.
Old 06-01-2024, 10:23 AM
  #114  
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Just wanted to update as I got the car back after a long month of waiting. As others have attested - totally transformed. Truly feels like a car with 50 ft/lb more torque. I wound up going with the full RS 4.0 treatment, and glad I did. For others who’ve asked if the slightly lighter 4.0 flywheel makes a noticeable difference to the 7.1RS unit, I can’t say that it really did. It feels maybe just a bit zippier, but it’s nominal.

However, the entire experience felt through the drivetrain is definitely somehow smoother. Not sure what that’s about. I got new synchros due to some premature wear, so maybe that aided ? Regardless, the net result is fantastic. Pulls so much more quickly through the gears. Really amps up around town enjoyment. Guard diff also massive, massive improvement. Rear end so planted. It waggled a bit under super hard high speed braking before. Now straight as an arrow. And absolutely stuck to the road on turn-in and exit. Great mod.

Lastly, I shopped around for the 4.0 FW and clutch package, and between FVD and Sierra Madre, found the FW for $580 and the pressure plate for $880. Both quite a bit cheaper than others I searched.
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Old 06-01-2024, 10:34 AM
  #115  
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I’ve got the RS R&P I never used in my car brand new if someone wants to avoid international shipping.
Old 06-01-2024, 08:02 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by jreifler
Just wanted to update as I got the car back after a long month of waiting. As others have attested - totally transformed. Truly feels like a car with 50 ft/lb more torque. I wound up going with the full RS 4.0 treatment, and glad I did. For others who’ve asked if the slightly lighter 4.0 flywheel makes a noticeable difference to the 7.1RS unit, I can’t say that it really did. It feels maybe just a bit zippier, but it’s nominal.

However, the entire experience felt through the drivetrain is definitely somehow smoother. Not sure what that’s about. I got new synchros due to some premature wear, so maybe that aided ? Regardless, the net result is fantastic. Pulls so much more quickly through the gears. Really amps up around town enjoyment. Guard diff also massive, massive improvement. Rear end so planted. It waggled a bit under super hard high speed braking before. Now straight as an arrow. And absolutely stuck to the road on turn-in and exit. Great mod.

Lastly, I shopped around for the 4.0 FW and clutch package, and between FVD and Sierra Madre, found the FW for $580 and the pressure plate for $880. Both quite a bit cheaper than others I searched.
That's great to hear, congrats! With the upgrades, how does the power delivery feel compared to your prior .2?
Old 06-01-2024, 08:45 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Vocan
That's great to hear, congrats! With the upgrades, how does the power delivery feel compared to your prior .2?
Good question. I think it closed the gap a good bit. 3.8 definitely still had a more violent mid-RPM pull, but between the normal 7.2 final drive and mine now with the LWFW, I think the hp/tq delta is probably unnoticeable unless you drove back to back. Even then it might be almost equal.

I'm definitely going to have to adjust to the shift point change. On my regular switchback-filled forest drive, I was upshifting to 4th much sooner on the straights. I kept wanting to go into 2nd as I used to do for tight 90 degree bends, but I really didn't need to. It rockets out in 3rd now. I for sure think it's a 3-4-5 car on any track now.
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