jreifler

@powdrhound - Brian and I have been exchanging messages on the re-gear. Can you offer your experience / insight on actually changing 2-5 / 6 vs. the R&P change alone? I am sending my 7.1RS box off next month to Rader for the re-gear and install of the Guard diff I bought but never installed on my .2.

Would also love your input on RS4.0 LWFW v. 7.1RS OE. From your other posts on this topic, I gather a minor - arguably imperceptible - improvement for a primarily street car ?

powdrhound

Although re-gear of 2-6 while leaving the stock 3.44 RP can give you pretty much the same results as the RS 3.89/6th, I didn't consider this for the simple following reason. My 7.2 is pretty much all stock besides the RS 3.89/6th re-gear and the RS4.0 clutch. It's a low mileage car and never been tracked and as such I wanted to stick with an all OEM RS set up for reasons of originality from the standpoint of a full RS drivetrain set up. As such, I did not want to re-gear 2-6 leaving the 3.44 R/P as that is not an OEM set up.

Regarding the RS4.0 LWFW v. 7.1RS OE, the RS4.0/Cup (.81) flywheel is slightly lighter than the 7.1RS (.31) flywheel (9lbs v. 11lbs). Having a slightly lower MOI is beneficial as it makes the engine marginally more "lively". It's a very small difference but a worthwhile one in my opinion. Again, I wanted to have a correct all OEM 4.0RS drivetrain, gearbox and clutch wise. From a performance standpoint on a street car, it's basically a coin flip either way you go.. Hope that helps...

jreifler

That does help, and I also want nearly all OE setup on internals. Thanks much !

christallon

Looking forward to seeing what you choose to do man. I am loving my stock 7.1 RS set-up w 4.0 clutch flywheel, but shifting it to the better ring/pinion and regear takes it up 2 notches. I have not wanted to spend the $'s for this.....yet. Living vicariously through your spend will likely make me jealous, and require my prying the wallet open. Go for it, force my hand please

jreifler

I'm almost as good as spending other people's money as I am my own. Lol. I've been debating the 4.0 clutch / flywheel package. It's a decent chunk over and above the re-gear work, and my car is low mileage, so doesn't need a clutch at this point. Very interested to hear more first-hand impressions on that setup vs. our stock RS running gear.

Very useful to have @powdrhound 's views on it, but would similarly like to hear from you and Brian on whether it made a meaningful difference for you.

christallon

My car came w the 4.0 setup, so I can't give you a comparison. I've always enjoyed the Lt Wt setup in all my cars. It makes a big difference over stock on lively Rev pickup. Very quick and useful, especially with the stock gear setup in our 7.1 RS cars. Rev matching is very easy. I'll have to ck the receipts for the work, but as I recall, it wasn't anything like the cost of what the regear and related transmission work will be. The chuntering alone is worth the price of admission (bag of nails) is an apt description. Sport purpose all the way. So your car is still on the dual mass setup?

jreifler

Mine is not dual, as our cars came with LWFW. The difference between .1RS and 4.0 flywheel is ~2lbs, and the moment of inertia that @powdrhound explains. So 4.0 is even quicker. But is it $4k quicker . . . ?

powdrhound

The 4.0 pressure plate and the 4.0 clutch disc are better than the 3.8 parts both of which are no longer produced and now superseded to the 4.0 stuff. The 4.0 pressure plate is bolted for greater burst protection vs. riveted on the 3.8 plate.. The 4.0 clutch disc has a slightly different spring design which makes it slightly quieter than the 3.8 disc. Both worthwhile upgrades "while in there" in my opinion.

Wind911

I have the 3.89 R&P with 4.0 LWFW+ clutch on my 7.2 GT3. Big improvement. I keep the stock shorter 6th and like it. Gives extra oomph when passing cars on freeway speed without downshifting, the extra rpm never bothers me. But if the idea of a "complete OEM 3.8 RS gear box conversion" is your thing, go for the taller 6th.

widers911

It's not $4k quicker. I've had both and the factory 3.6 LWFW setup feels comparable. And yes the 4.0 setup is more robust and heavy duty in comparison to a 3.6 or 3.8 setup. So it makes sense if you need a new setup due to mileage but otherwise I don't see the "need"...unless if you just want to have the best of the best setup, then no doubt, go for it.

christallon

Ah, OK, I guess I didn't realize the stock setup was Lt Wt. My 04 GT3's had dual mass, but that's probably a base GT3 only thing. Honestly don't know if I'd bother then. But since the previous owner spent the bucks, all good.
Checking the receipts, total job was $5,120 which included labor. He also dropped a Guard LSD in at the same time which added another $3,100, plus an additional $900 for specific labor for diff, Diff bearings and seals. Yikes!

Hamhands

My plan is to 3.89 R/P, Turbo 6th gear, 4.0 FW/Clutch, motorsport clutches in diff. Unless im missing something for my .1 GT3

jreifler

Still gathering data points, but arriving at:

1) 4.0 package is a game changer for any non-RS 7GT.
2) For RS cars, not dramatic, but still a slight improvement in both performance and durability.
3) If you need a new clutch on either platform, makes sense.
4) If electively just doing re-gear in RS with good clutch, prob not worth another $4k.
5) Proper diff is a game changer in any 7GT (which I knew from my .2).

And last point from chatting with Alex at SW earlier:

6) If your RS clutch is in good shape, can do just 4.0 FW and pressure plate and save ~ $2k.

christallon

Alex Rocks! Honest as the day is long.

Your notes look spot on....
Do you have an estimated cost for the regear project you can add to list?

powdrhound

The 4.0 Clutch parts are not $4K. Shop around and you can get the 4.0RS FW/PP/Disc for about $2500. I did the Guard clutch pack when everything was apart.