Life with a 997.2 GTS 6MT
#136
Rennline Pedals Added
Many of you have this same problem. The throttle pedal isn't high enough while braking during street driving to blip on down shifts properly. So, I added Rennline pedals to counter that. I'm tall too so I have to do a roll/heal blip even on track and can't execute a proper heal blip with the legroom available in the 997. So the added pedal lift helps there too.
Many of you have this same problem. The throttle pedal isn't high enough while braking during street driving to blip on down shifts properly. So, I added Rennline pedals to counter that. I'm tall too so I have to do a roll/heal blip even on track and can't execute a proper heal blip with the legroom available in the 997. So the added pedal lift helps there too.
#137
The lettering was originally white and I changed it to red myself.
And I bought these in my infant 997 ownership months. What I thought were Rennline were probably knock offs. They are at least good quality though and have held up great. Look like new. Sorry to say also that I don't remember where I sourced them.
#138
I headed to Autobahn again with LAPS Inc this past Monday for the free granola bars. There also happened to be a track day so I decided to participate and paid close attention to the changes I'd feel with the new Rennline SS motor mounts.
The difference was immediately noticeable during directional changes and downshifting while threshold braking. I used to have trouble going 3-2 and would avoid it at Patience, but now it's a dream and I can gain an extra half second at that complex sitting in a better torque curve in 2nd instead of a lower RPM 3rd.
So, i decided to hook up my GoPro, take some video and when i got home I started researching best lines and discovered this:
https://www.raceoptimal.com/AutobahnCC
It has the best line for a GT3 RS 4.0 and it's 20 seconds (!!!!!) faster than my PB of 2:46 I set that day. I researched the lines and I am spot on in some and WAY off in others. I'm following the miata line which is a more traditional balanced car line and I'm not playing to the rear weight bias of the 911 at all. I probably stand to gain at least 5 seconds changing lines and braking later. So, my goal in this car is to hit 2:41 on 18" NT01s. You heard it here. I'm calling myself out. We'll see how long it takes me.
Here are a couple of pics I took. None of the video was any good (no PBs or slides) so I'll save a post for a better video.
It's market price 93 octane Sunoco at the track. Can't beat that convenience and the long line proved it. Though I didn't mind waiting behind this beaut.
The track was closing so I did what any other self respecting man does at last call and hung outside the ladies bathroom.
The difference was immediately noticeable during directional changes and downshifting while threshold braking. I used to have trouble going 3-2 and would avoid it at Patience, but now it's a dream and I can gain an extra half second at that complex sitting in a better torque curve in 2nd instead of a lower RPM 3rd.
So, i decided to hook up my GoPro, take some video and when i got home I started researching best lines and discovered this:
https://www.raceoptimal.com/AutobahnCC
It has the best line for a GT3 RS 4.0 and it's 20 seconds (!!!!!) faster than my PB of 2:46 I set that day. I researched the lines and I am spot on in some and WAY off in others. I'm following the miata line which is a more traditional balanced car line and I'm not playing to the rear weight bias of the 911 at all. I probably stand to gain at least 5 seconds changing lines and braking later. So, my goal in this car is to hit 2:41 on 18" NT01s. You heard it here. I'm calling myself out. We'll see how long it takes me.
Here are a couple of pics I took. None of the video was any good (no PBs or slides) so I'll save a post for a better video.
It's market price 93 octane Sunoco at the track. Can't beat that convenience and the long line proved it. Though I didn't mind waiting behind this beaut.
The track was closing so I did what any other self respecting man does at last call and hung outside the ladies bathroom.
Last edited by nwGTS; 06-30-2017 at 02:06 AM.
#139
Time for an oil change
After 5 track days and a tick over 2300 miles I decided to change the oil. This is certainly early given the mileage but i think the timing is spot on given the mileage combined with the five track days. The oil was certainly dirty but not egregiously so. A Blackstone Labs report will tell me if I have more time or maybe even should have changed it sooner.
It took 7.5 quarts after draining overnight but may need a touch more after I put some miles on it and the oil level indicator evens out.
There was next to nothing ferrous on the magnetic drain plug... a good sign.
Caution: Alliteration Ahead
I found a few non-ferrous, fine flakes in the filter, but my Indy says it's nothing to worry about and Blackstone will give me Iron and Aluminum levels to put in context to my last changes.
I also did a quick bleed of the brakes before my next track day this Friday.
Happy Fourth of July!
After 5 track days and a tick over 2300 miles I decided to change the oil. This is certainly early given the mileage but i think the timing is spot on given the mileage combined with the five track days. The oil was certainly dirty but not egregiously so. A Blackstone Labs report will tell me if I have more time or maybe even should have changed it sooner.
It took 7.5 quarts after draining overnight but may need a touch more after I put some miles on it and the oil level indicator evens out.
There was next to nothing ferrous on the magnetic drain plug... a good sign.
Caution: Alliteration Ahead
I found a few non-ferrous, fine flakes in the filter, but my Indy says it's nothing to worry about and Blackstone will give me Iron and Aluminum levels to put in context to my last changes.
I also did a quick bleed of the brakes before my next track day this Friday.
Happy Fourth of July!
#141
Thanks and likewise, especially with your new not-so-easy mods. I've given up on keeping the car clean 24/7 and have focused on keeping it swirl and micro scratch free. So far it's been easier to manage and maintain and has paid off with nearly flawless paint.
#142
I know what you mean, exactly. Instead of trying to keep it in super-clean, undriven-post-wash condition all the time, I've decided to work on keeping the paint clean and healthy. A little bit of dirt and debris from normal spirited driving doesn't bother me anymore, as I know it's always a light wash away from being "near perfect." It's only the underlying condition of the paint that concerns me. You can't enjoy the car without getting it a little dirty, now and then. ;-)
#143
I know what you mean, exactly. Instead of trying to keep it in super-clean, undriven-post-wash condition all the time, I've decided to work on keeping the paint clean and healthy. A little bit of dirt and debris from normal spirited driving doesn't bother me anymore, as I know it's always a light wash away from being "near perfect." It's only the underlying condition of the paint that concerns me. You can't enjoy the car without getting it a little dirty, now and then. ;-)
#145
A track buddy of mine noticed that one of the track groups I lap with, GPS Tracktime, used a shot of my car as their website and Facebook banner so he sent it to me. I may have to change my avatar!
To give credit, the shot is by Redline Photo (www.redlinephoto.com).
To give credit, the shot is by Redline Photo (www.redlinephoto.com).
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mohawk5010 (09-18-2020)
#148
Nope. Just saying that I used to stress about the car, any time it wasn't newly washed and "perfectly" clean. I washed it often, many times just to get it done, but I wasn't ever that serious or knowledgable about protecting the paint. Then I took the time to learn how to handle and protect the paint properly. Now I don't stress if the car has a day or three of "road use" on it, as long as the paint underneath has been properly cared for. A light coating of dust and "dirt" is nothing, if the paint below is already "happy." It also makes washing much, much easier. ;-) (Btw, I know how serious some people take detailing, etc. I'm never going to be that into it, but the basics steps I've learned have already made a world of difference. Simple is better, for me....)
Yup. From what I've learned, from friends who are super into it, setting it all up right, one time, means everything after that is just (proper) maintenance. No need to correct the paint over and over again, if you're not damaging it all the time. ;-)
Yup. From what I've learned, from friends who are super into it, setting it all up right, one time, means everything after that is just (proper) maintenance. No need to correct the paint over and over again, if you're not damaging it all the time. ;-)
#149
A track buddy of mine noticed that one of the track groups I lap with, GPS Tracktime, used a shot of my car as their website and Facebook banner so he sent it to me. I may have to change my avatar!
To give credit, the shot is by Redline Photo (www.redlinephoto.com).
To give credit, the shot is by Redline Photo (www.redlinephoto.com).
Btw, what offsets are you running on the rear, there? ET 45 or so? (Or the equivalent, if those are 12" wide.)
#150
A track buddy of mine noticed that one of the track groups I lap with, GPS Tracktime, used a shot of my car as their website and Facebook banner so he sent it to me. I may have to change my avatar!
To give credit, the shot is by Redline Photo (www.redlinephoto.com).
To give credit, the shot is by Redline Photo (www.redlinephoto.com).
Btw, what offsets are you running on the rear, there? ET 45 or so? (Or the equivalent, if those are 12" wide.)
Here are the parts, numbers and offsets for my BBS E88s. These are identical to what is recommended for GT3 RSs:
Front: Center 0288274 / 1.0 / 8.0 ET + 50.0
Rear: Center 0288107 / 3.5 / 8.5 ET + 42.0