Why? Fixed 1st gear jam with new PTX gear oil
#18
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I have always found the smoothest shifting to be had by making straight line moves forward/back, left/right as this behavior will move on one shift lever at a time, and in the order required.
Ben: I don't know why you had no effect, but then I am not at all sure why changing the fluid for me worked, hence the big "Why" in my original post. This is all still a mystery to me. Maybe I am having some wear in there and the new fluid is masking it..... again, I can make stuff up all day but I really don't know why this worked for me. I was really getting fed up to the point I was about to take the car to the dealership, and I can't imagine that would have been cheap. Maybe the new fluid bought me some time. And time will tell.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#19
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Is it possible just changing the oil cured it not the brand but new oil?
#21
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about 20 years ago, I had an early AWD Turbo Eclipse, and tried different transaxle oils, and read and thought about how synchromesh works in transmissions. There are of course varying reasons why transmission/transaxle manufacturers recommend specific lubes. But one consistent fact is that synchro's need some friction to do their job. Too little and balky, too slippery, and again, balky. Of course, there are tradeoffs, a slippery synthetic of low viscosity may be best for low temps, but too slick when hot.
Ultimately, after a number of trials, i found BG full synthetic SynchroShift made a noticable difference in my Eclipse, so after trying the recommended the ATF in my several Tremec trasmissions in my Superformance Cobra, I found it too shifted better with the BG product. I am not suggesting any lube for Porsche transmissions, just saying that gear lube of just the perfect lubricity for the Synchro's can indeed make a big difference in shift smoothness.
As for "wearing out" a gear lube, unlike an engine lube which can get loaded with combustion by-products, a gear lube is very susceptible to shearing. Which is why Porsche insists that gearbox lubes be changed pretty often in a tracked car.
Just my own experience, and how I see it.
All the best....
NV
Ultimately, after a number of trials, i found BG full synthetic SynchroShift made a noticable difference in my Eclipse, so after trying the recommended the ATF in my several Tremec trasmissions in my Superformance Cobra, I found it too shifted better with the BG product. I am not suggesting any lube for Porsche transmissions, just saying that gear lube of just the perfect lubricity for the Synchro's can indeed make a big difference in shift smoothness.
As for "wearing out" a gear lube, unlike an engine lube which can get loaded with combustion by-products, a gear lube is very susceptible to shearing. Which is why Porsche insists that gearbox lubes be changed pretty often in a tracked car.
Just my own experience, and how I see it.
All the best....
NV
#22
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Oh, as for downshift smoothness in any manual gear box car, I had to learn how to double clutch long long ago, in the early '60's, when I learned to drive my dad's '59 Anglia, and later, when I had a '65 MGB, with a non-synchro first gear gearbox. I later learned to "heel and toe" on race tracks, and in my street driven cars. So when I downshift in any manual gear box car, I always give the appropriate Blip to keep the synchro's from having to do any of the work. I suppose by now I have Blipped millions of downshifts, and slipping into a lower gear in any car is smooth as the proverbial hot knife thru butter.
I am very easy on clutches and gearboxes, largely in part because I use the throttle to match up all the parts in my transmissions.
Also I was taught many years ago by a race driver to upshift with the "snick-snick" method, which is a momentary pause in the "H" of any transmission, which I guess gives the gearbox a tiny fraction of time to get things up to speed for the next higher gear.
all the best...
NV
I am very easy on clutches and gearboxes, largely in part because I use the throttle to match up all the parts in my transmissions.
Also I was taught many years ago by a race driver to upshift with the "snick-snick" method, which is a momentary pause in the "H" of any transmission, which I guess gives the gearbox a tiny fraction of time to get things up to speed for the next higher gear.
all the best...
NV
#23
Nordschleife Master
Oh, as for downshift smoothness in any manual gear box car, I had to learn how to double clutch long long ago, in the early '60's, when I learned to drive my dad's '59 Anglia, and later, when I had a '65 MGB, with a non-synchro first gear gearbox. I later learned to "heel and toe" on race tracks, and in my street driven cars. So when I downshift in any manual gear box car, I always give the appropriate Blip to keep the synchro's from having to do any of the work. I suppose by now I have Blipped millions of downshifts, and slipping into a lower gear in any car is smooth as the proverbial hot knife thru butter.
I am very easy on clutches and gearboxes, largely in part because I use the throttle to match up all the parts in my transmissions.
Also I was taught many years ago by a race driver to upshift with the "snick-snick" method, which is a momentary pause in the "H" of any transmission, which I guess gives the gearbox a tiny fraction of time to get things up to speed for the next higher gear.
all the best...
NV
I am very easy on clutches and gearboxes, largely in part because I use the throttle to match up all the parts in my transmissions.
Also I was taught many years ago by a race driver to upshift with the "snick-snick" method, which is a momentary pause in the "H" of any transmission, which I guess gives the gearbox a tiny fraction of time to get things up to speed for the next higher gear.
all the best...
NV
#24
Burning Brakes
When I was actively tracking my DSM (before law school ), BG SynchroShift was the magic go-to fluid for the Aisin W5M33 AWD transaxles the AWD Turbo-bishis had (Eclipse/Talon/Laser, Galant VR-4). I noticed a big difference switching out the GL-5 the previous owner had put in there.
Center diff has RedLine Shockproof and the rear diff has OEM Mitsubishi DiaQueen.
I actually have a few bottles of SyncroShift that have been sitting since 2009 in my garage. I've been thinking about chucking it into the 997 ...
#25
Three Wheelin'
O...
I am very easy on clutches and gearboxes, largely in part because I use the throttle to match up all the parts in my transmissions.
Also I was taught many years ago by a race driver to upshift with the "snick-snick" method, which is a momentary pause in the "H" of any transmission, which I guess gives the gearbox a tiny fraction of time to get things up to speed for the next higher gear.
all the best...
NV
I am very easy on clutches and gearboxes, largely in part because I use the throttle to match up all the parts in my transmissions.
Also I was taught many years ago by a race driver to upshift with the "snick-snick" method, which is a momentary pause in the "H" of any transmission, which I guess gives the gearbox a tiny fraction of time to get things up to speed for the next higher gear.
all the best...
NV
The little and deliberate H pattern motion (snick snick) is part of muscle memory now. If I think about it, it feels awkward. If I just do it without thinking, muscle memory takes over.
I still don't shift into 1st unless the car is still or moving almost imperceptibly. If I release the brake at an intersection and the car moves forward even the slightest, I accelerate in 2nd. No lugging or real clutch slip required.
.
#26
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I don't know.
Like I posted earlier, I just wanted the stuff denoted in my manual. I found it odd that it didn't have the spec, but the actual product. I was just hyper paranoid as I was worried that I may have been on the way to a transmission rebuild.... again my active imagination.
Like I noted in other post, the local dealer only uses Delvac, a G5 lube yet that is not the PTX spec of G4.5. Does this make the difference? Who the f knows.
If I had infinite time and resources, I would drain the PTX out, and try the Delvac.... then I would know more..... maybe.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Like I posted earlier, I just wanted the stuff denoted in my manual. I found it odd that it didn't have the spec, but the actual product. I was just hyper paranoid as I was worried that I may have been on the way to a transmission rebuild.... again my active imagination.
Like I noted in other post, the local dealer only uses Delvac, a G5 lube yet that is not the PTX spec of G4.5. Does this make the difference? Who the f knows.
If I had infinite time and resources, I would drain the PTX out, and try the Delvac.... then I would know more..... maybe.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#27
I'm with you. But these kids today!!
The little and deliberate H pattern motion (snick snick) is part of muscle memory now. If I think about it, it feels awkward. If I just do it without thinking, muscle memory takes over.
I still don't shift into 1st unless the car is still or moving almost imperceptibly. If I release the brake at an intersection and the car moves forward even the slightest, I accelerate in 2nd. No lugging or real clutch slip required.
.
The little and deliberate H pattern motion (snick snick) is part of muscle memory now. If I think about it, it feels awkward. If I just do it without thinking, muscle memory takes over.
I still don't shift into 1st unless the car is still or moving almost imperceptibly. If I release the brake at an intersection and the car moves forward even the slightest, I accelerate in 2nd. No lugging or real clutch slip required.
.
#28
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What we're specifically talking about here is, you're sitting at a light, car in neutral, foot off the clutch. Light turns green (or you see the cross street light turn yellow), you step on the clutch and attempt to shift into 1st. It won't go. No grinding, just like feels like trying to shift into 6th on a 5-speed. You slip it into 2nd, and sometimes it will then go into 1st. Or you let out the clutch and back in and then it goes. Maybe. You know it won't help to force it but there's a line of cars behind you laying on their horns and you know what they're all thinking of you and your Porsche
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#29
Three Wheelin'
What we're specifically talking about here is, you're sitting at a light, car in neutral, foot off the clutch. Light turns green (or you see the cross street light turn yellow), you step on the clutch and attempt to shift into 1st. It won't go. No grinding, just like feels like trying to shift into 6th on a 5-speed. You slip it into 2nd, and sometimes it will then go into 1st. Or you let out the clutch and back in and then it goes. Maybe. You know it won't help to force it but there's a line of cars behind you laying on their horns and you know what they're all thinking of you and your Porsche
I went off topic.
But in a related note, alluded to much earlier, in my experience, the people who have these problems are the people who downshift into first gear like it's any other gear. Anecdotal... yes I know... but I've met several Porsche owners who complained about this 1st gear problem. They all downshift into 1st and treat it much differently than I do.
We're at the point in this thread where it's run its course until more scientific explanations show up.
.
#30
Burning Brakes