Bye Bye Mobile 1 0-40w
05-29-2015, 05:12 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK, cough up the rational..... I am interested (in a good way!) and don't plan to slam.
So, questions:
1) Why?
2) Why is higher pressure at idle good?
3) Why is Mobil 1 less good, what is the matter with it?
4) Bonus question: Why do you feel tilting your car is a good thing to do? I have been warned that it may cause the sender to recalibrate and result in incorrect fill readings.
Seriously, I am not looking to bait you, I am just curious about your reasoning or information you used.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
So, questions:
1) Why?
2) Why is higher pressure at idle good?
3) Why is Mobil 1 less good, what is the matter with it?
4) Bonus question: Why do you feel tilting your car is a good thing to do? I have been warned that it may cause the sender to recalibrate and result in incorrect fill readings.
Seriously, I am not looking to bait you, I am just curious about your reasoning or information you used.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Based on past readings, M1 is generally viewed as inferior to top European oils. Quality and film strength were part of my thinking, along with better anti shearing properties.
Additionally, I noticed my oil pressure getting close to 1 bar at idle with M1. Consensus seemed to suggest 2 bar was as low as you'd want see. Seeing the bar dropping overtime with M1 had me thinking that damn oil was losing its anti shear properties (knowing it also inferior to start with).
5-40w choice was based on having something thicker for summer and hard driving. I think it's the consensus on oil weight and has been mentioned by engine rebuilders for the m97 motor, i.e Hartech and others.
As for the 3.5 bar, I mentioned this a reference point to see oil pressure improvement. M1 with 3500 on the clock was just above 1. I'm not sure what the right bar number is but didn't want to see under 1. As an update, was a tad under 3 bar at idle today at 225f. Some nice pulls to 6500 in spectacular weather.
Wish I switched earlier but the ole garage always seemed to have jugs of M1 for my other cars. I blame Walmart.
As for the slight incline for the oil change, no problem. Nice hot engine and 4hr drain. 8.75Q oil in and hit the first bar.
Gear oil next. Motul 300 gear oil.
05-29-2015, 05:51 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
All right you guys got me. Baited.
Based on past readings, M1 is generally viewed as inferior to top European oils. Quality and film strength were part of my thinking, along with better anti shearing properties.
Additionally, I noticed my oil pressure getting close to 1 bar at idle with M1. Consensus seemed to suggest 2 bar was as low as you'd want see. Seeing the bar dropping overtime with M1 had me thinking that damn oil was losing its anti shear properties (knowing it also inferior to start with).
5-40w choice was based on having something thicker for summer and hard driving. I think it's the consensus on oil weight and has been mentioned by engine rebuilders for the m97 motor, i.e Hartech and others.
As for the 3.5 bar, I mentioned this a reference point to see oil pressure improvement. M1 with 3500 on the clock was just above 1. I'm not sure what the right bar number is but didn't want to see under 1. As an update, was a tad under 3 bar at idle today at 225f. Some nice pulls to 6500 in spectacular weather.
Wish I switched earlier but the ole garage always seemed to have jugs of M1 for my other cars. I blame Walmart.
As for the slight incline for the oil change, no problem. Nice hot engine and 4hr drain. 8.75Q oil in and hit the first bar.
Gear oil next. Motul 300 gear oil.
Based on past readings, M1 is generally viewed as inferior to top European oils. Quality and film strength were part of my thinking, along with better anti shearing properties.
Additionally, I noticed my oil pressure getting close to 1 bar at idle with M1. Consensus seemed to suggest 2 bar was as low as you'd want see. Seeing the bar dropping overtime with M1 had me thinking that damn oil was losing its anti shear properties (knowing it also inferior to start with).
5-40w choice was based on having something thicker for summer and hard driving. I think it's the consensus on oil weight and has been mentioned by engine rebuilders for the m97 motor, i.e Hartech and others.
As for the 3.5 bar, I mentioned this a reference point to see oil pressure improvement. M1 with 3500 on the clock was just above 1. I'm not sure what the right bar number is but didn't want to see under 1. As an update, was a tad under 3 bar at idle today at 225f. Some nice pulls to 6500 in spectacular weather.
Wish I switched earlier but the ole garage always seemed to have jugs of M1 for my other cars. I blame Walmart.
As for the slight incline for the oil change, no problem. Nice hot engine and 4hr drain. 8.75Q oil in and hit the first bar.
Gear oil next. Motul 300 gear oil.
Any thoughts on 20W-50?
I was at the track a couple weeks ago one of the long time head driving instructor was talking about how that was the weight he liked.
And yes will prob become a long and opinionated thread.....lol Does anyone use Dinosaur oil anymore lol....
05-29-2015, 06:37 PM
#20
Just playing devil's advocate, but Wayne Dempsey rec's 20w-50 on water coolers in certain climates.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Oil_Change.htm
05-29-2015, 06:55 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
3 BAR oil pressure at idle at 225*f oil temp?
At 225*f, I'm right at 1 BAR. Engine was rebuilt 9-10k miles ago by FSI.
Something doesn't seem right here ...
At 225*f, I'm right at 1 BAR. Engine was rebuilt 9-10k miles ago by FSI.
Something doesn't seem right here ...
05-29-2015, 08:03 PM
#22
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OK, cough up the rational..... I am interested (in a good way!) and don't plan to slam.
So, questions:
3) Why is Mobil 1 less good, what is the matter with it?
Seriously, I am not looking to bait you, I am just curious about your reasoning or information you used.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
So, questions:
3) Why is Mobil 1 less good, what is the matter with it?
Seriously, I am not looking to bait you, I am just curious about your reasoning or information you used.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
05-29-2015, 08:04 PM
#23
I spit some monster energy drink onto my screen. BAAHAHAHAA
Anyways, I think it's ironic that tonight i'm changing my oil at 3k miles like clockwork; but I decided to go from the relatively harder to find "Euro Formula" pennzoil 5w40 Ferrari approved, porsche approved formula, to regular old mobile 1 ow40.
I know the difference between euro formula and others; euro formula has a more precise tolerance for purity of the oil. I forget the numbers but I assume it's miniscule.
Why am I doing this? For science.
Just kidding; it's the oil porsche engineers recommend, its the oil my indy recommends, and I want to be able to walk into a local auto store and be able to buy as much as I want, not have to buy 2-3 at a time, or order online.
Availability > any perceived difference to me. I am going back to OW40 mobile 1.
Anyways, I think it's ironic that tonight i'm changing my oil at 3k miles like clockwork; but I decided to go from the relatively harder to find "Euro Formula" pennzoil 5w40 Ferrari approved, porsche approved formula, to regular old mobile 1 ow40.
I know the difference between euro formula and others; euro formula has a more precise tolerance for purity of the oil. I forget the numbers but I assume it's miniscule.
Why am I doing this? For science.
Just kidding; it's the oil porsche engineers recommend, its the oil my indy recommends, and I want to be able to walk into a local auto store and be able to buy as much as I want, not have to buy 2-3 at a time, or order online.
Availability > any perceived difference to me. I am going back to OW40 mobile 1.
05-29-2015, 08:30 PM
#26
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LN engineering says 10psi per 1000rpm. 1 bar = 14.5 psi.
The OP is probably, depending who you talk to, is going to better oil. But the big PSI difference is a little weird.
3.5 bar is actually a little high at hot, if the definition of hot is 200+. At 200, it should be between 1 and 2 bar.
I have used DT40 and the OP'S oil and I get about 1.25 -1.5 bar at 200+.
Mike
05-29-2015, 09:38 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
New owner of first 911 (2006 c4 cab 3.6). I just changed mine with new M1 0-40W, and noted an increase in pressure of about 1 bar across the board. Been wondering about that...could be less pressure drop across the oil filter with the new one, but this depends on where the oil filter is in relatation to the pump, oil filter bypass, and pressure sender unit.
I konw that going up from 0-40w to your 5w-40 ? will result in an increase in idle pressure in many engines, as the filter is new (in your case), the pump pressure relief spring is still on it's seat, and the viscosity (new oil) is at max.
2006 c4 Cab MT Jan 2006 build
I konw that going up from 0-40w to your 5w-40 ? will result in an increase in idle pressure in many engines, as the filter is new (in your case), the pump pressure relief spring is still on it's seat, and the viscosity (new oil) is at max.
2006 c4 Cab MT Jan 2006 build
05-29-2015, 10:07 PM
#28
05-29-2015, 10:39 PM
#29
I spit some monster energy drink onto my screen. BAAHAHAHAA
Anyways, I think it's ironic that tonight i'm changing my oil at 3k miles like clockwork; but I decided to go from the relatively harder to find "Euro Formula" pennzoil 5w40 Ferrari approved, porsche approved formula, to regular old mobile 1 ow40.
I know the difference between euro formula and others; euro formula has a more precise tolerance for purity of the oil. I forget the numbers but I assume it's miniscule.
Why am I doing this? For science.
Just kidding; it's the oil porsche engineers recommend, its the oil my indy recommends, and I want to be able to walk into a local auto store and be able to buy as much as I want, not have to buy 2-3 at a time, or order online.
Availability > any perceived difference to me. I am going back to OW40 mobile 1.
Anyways, I think it's ironic that tonight i'm changing my oil at 3k miles like clockwork; but I decided to go from the relatively harder to find "Euro Formula" pennzoil 5w40 Ferrari approved, porsche approved formula, to regular old mobile 1 ow40.
I know the difference between euro formula and others; euro formula has a more precise tolerance for purity of the oil. I forget the numbers but I assume it's miniscule.
Why am I doing this? For science.
Just kidding; it's the oil porsche engineers recommend, its the oil my indy recommends, and I want to be able to walk into a local auto store and be able to buy as much as I want, not have to buy 2-3 at a time, or order online.
Availability > any perceived difference to me. I am going back to OW40 mobile 1.
