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Old 01-22-2017 | 02:47 AM
  #421  
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So did you end up getting a new rad hose? Or a new clamp?
Old 01-22-2017 | 04:45 AM
  #422  
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Bought all new hoses and clips. Tested to pressure and drove the car today, no hose popped out.
Old 01-23-2017 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by StormRune
I glanced through your recent thread posts to see if anyone has mentioned the emergency key release. The tool for this is attached to the back of the fuse box lid. Here is the instructions in case this helps. Of course, the car might still grab the key back each time, but this might at least allow you to get it out if needed and to reduce battery drain.


Well I think I need to check the shifter inside the car. I checked the shifter cable on the tranny and it looks ok. Anyone have a DIY on how to remove the shifter?
Old 01-23-2017 | 02:56 AM
  #424  
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Originally Posted by ocmacman
Well I think I need to check the shifter inside the car. I checked the shifter cable on the tranny and it looks ok. Anyone have a DIY on how to remove the shifter?

Easy job;997centerconsole.pdf

If you want to remove the ****;
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...comment-108867
Old 01-26-2017 | 12:30 AM
  #425  
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I think my driver side headlight is not working. Is it possible that water from a popped off radiator hose can get water on my headlight connector and short circuit my headlight? I took the passenger side headlight and plugged it into the driver side connector and not lights. I thought it would light up and that would tell me if it was a wiring problem. I had previously taken out the bulb on the passenger side and put it into the driver side light but no light still. I fear my wiring harness for the lights is not working. Can I purchase a separate harness just for the headlights?
Old 01-26-2017 | 07:17 AM
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If there would be s short circuit, it would have been protected by your fuses.
Did you check your fuses? It is unlikely that your harness is the issue.
Old 01-27-2017 | 02:41 AM
  #427  
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Thanks Rickky, I'll check the fuse, I am trying to put things together. Will have to take the rads off just to tighten down the fenders.
Old 01-27-2017 | 10:49 PM
  #428  
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I am going to switch the ballast and see if that may be the problem.
Old 01-29-2017 | 12:13 PM
  #429  
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I pulled off the ballast and switched it out with the driver side ballast and the light worked! It was the ballast. I ordered one and it should get here on Tuesday. I put the rear bumper on last night and buttoned up the rear of the car. Funny thing though, I was putting the rear tail lights on and dropped the screw. it fell between the bumper cover and the heat shield. I had to take the whole thing off again

I will be putting the front bumper on this morning and taking the car for another drive around the block to see how the cooling holds.
Old 01-30-2017 | 01:52 AM
  #430  
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Today was a pretty good day. I was able to get the front bumper, head lights and fog lights and side lights on. It went well. I took the car for a drive too. Engine strong but I still haven't pushed it. I should get the ballast on Tuesday and put the passenger side light on. At that point I'll put in the coolant finally and give the car a brisk drive.

I still have the "already in park" issue. The car shifts into gear fine. Also when it's in park I moved the tires and it is really in park. I think it's something to do with the shifter inside the car. I'll have to take that off and see what's in there.
















Here is a video of the bumper installed and checking the lights


Quite happy so far. I still have to put some parts on like the rear strut bar and some other items. I am looking for a good paint shop in socal right now as I am getting close to getting her painted.

Last edited by ocmacman; 04-04-2017 at 10:39 PM.
Old 01-30-2017 | 09:39 AM
  #431  
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Looking good.
For your P issue. Seems you have tested that P is mechanically in so nothing to do with the linkage. Last option to check is the lever assembly as such. I bet that the little switch with the reed contact to detect P came loose or broke off as there is nothing else in the loop anymore. Hope you can repair it as you can't get this as a loose item, you have to buy a complete lever assembly.

As a free advice, just make sure you check your tiptronic transmission fluid to have a correct level before you show her who's the boss. They are reliable but fluid level is a bit sensitive.
You will find it out easy under high acceleration and braking, she will slip if there is not enough fluid. If there is too many she will drive fine initially but once the fluid heats up it will start to foam and start to slip too. It is an easy check, just make sure your car sits absolutely level on the jack stands and you are in the proper fluid temperature range.
Old 01-30-2017 | 11:30 PM
  #432  
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Thanks Rikky001. I will have that checked. I am waiting on my tags and registration. I'll then be taking the car to a reputable shop here in Socal for some "pro" work. I am also looking to do some suspension work (fatter sway bar and some springs or coilovers).

I hope to get my ballast tomorrow and finish off my lights. When I drove the car yesterday the only lights that came on was the check engine service soon light. I know why that light is on and the car will need some programming. I am hoping to be ready for the California Festival of Speed this year.
Old 02-01-2017 | 11:27 PM
  #433  
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When I was installing the transmission one of the metal water (heater) hoses was caught between the hull of the car and it was bent a bit as I was jacking the tranny up. I was kinda able to round it out again but not really all the way. I really had a hard time clamping this hose. I finally got the clamp on and it seem to be tight. Well I was driving the car today and when the oil temp reached about 200 degrees I noticed a leak as I was pulling back into the driveway. I looked under the car and saw it coming from a metal line. I couldn't really tell which one but I put the car back up on jack stands (I am a wiz at jacking the car up now, takes me about 15 mins or less) and pulled off the driver side rear wheel and poked around a bit. I checked out the area where the hose was a bit bent and tugged onto the clamp. Well water started dripping out immediately. I have a spring clamp on it but I don't think the spring clamp is squeezing it tightly since it's out of round. I may try an old style screw clamp and see how that works.



Here is a pic of the leaking hose. I'll post a pic of the actual clamped hose later. It's dark now and dinner time.




Just installed the new ballast on the passenger side. Also got a one (1) year warranty.



New lights



High beams are working.

I am also trying to clear some lights on the dash. I am now down to an airbag light that seems to want to stay on. I do have the two airbag sensors installed under the fenders. I know I need to have the car computer programmed as well and some of these might go away. I have a wireless ODBII adapter that connects the car to my android phone. Here are some of the codes that it read out today:

[COLOR="Lime"]Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================

Vehicle VIN: WP0AB29996S741367
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0030: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2197: O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank2 Sensor1

Pending Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no pending faults

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged

End of report.

Anyone seen these codes before?

I am hoping to take the car to the Festival of Speed in April here in Socal. I am sourcing for a paint shop locally. Will paint the same color code and maybe a respray.
Old 02-03-2017 | 01:10 AM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by ocmacman
Well I think I need to check the shifter inside the car. I checked the shifter cable on the tranny and it looks ok. Anyone have a DIY on how to remove the shifter?
Ok, so I have been struggling with my key being stuck in the ignition. I have been using the above method to get the key out. However tonight after a somewhat spirited drive to check the hose repair I did, I took off clip B and it was lying on the floor of the car. I dropped the key on the clip and think the clip popped up and it now lost

Anyone know how to get one of these clips or a part number? Will the car explode for not having this area covered?
Old 02-03-2017 | 01:17 AM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by StormRune
I glanced through your recent thread posts to see if anyone has mentioned the emergency key release. The tool for this is attached to the back of the fuse box lid. Here is the instructions in case this helps. Of course, the car might still grab the key back each time, but this might at least allow you to get it out if needed and to reduce battery drain.


Originally Posted by ocmacman
Well I think I need to check the shifter inside the car. I checked the shifter cable on the tranny and it looks ok. Anyone have a DIY on how to remove the shifter?
Ok, so I have been struggling with my key being stuck in the ignition. I have been using the above method to get the key out. However tonight after a somewhat spirited drive to check the hose repair I did, I took off clip B and it was lying on the floor of the car. I dropped the key on the clip and think the clip popped up and it now lost

Anyone know how to get one of these clips or a part number? Will the car explode for not having this area covered?


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