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Removed my driver’s side door panel to replace the door handle pivot assembly. Broke two of the panel clips and had to order new ones from Pelican. Of course, one of the broken pieces fell into the door in the one place that is boxed so it is irretrievable and it will rattle forever.
Removed my driver’s side door panel to replace the door handle pivot assembly. Broke two of the panel clips and had to order new ones from Pelican. Of course, one of the broken pieces fell into the door in the one place that is boxed so it is irretrievable and it will rattle forever.
try hooking up a flex tube (maybe a long rubber hose) to your vacuum and suck it out. I've had a lot of success sucking stuff out of hard-to-reach, hard-to-see spots.
While I’m waiting on my door panel clips, I went out tonight and replaced my engine air filters and cabin air filter. Two observations:
1. Eight torx screws is overkill to get to the engine air filters.
2. Four torx screws to get to the cabin air filter is also silly. AND the dealer tech who installed the old cabin air filter put it in upside down. What a dope.
I've had a lot of success sucking stuff out of hard-to-reach, hard-to-see spots.
BTW, I appreciated the suggestion enough that I left this statement alone. It was all I could do not to swing at one that was so slow and down the middle.
BTW, I appreciated the suggestion enough that I left this statement alone. It was all I could do not to swing at one that was so slow and down the middle.
Refresh Key Fob. Bought case on Ebay - $30. Moved the guts and transponder to new shell and it worked like a charm. Getting transponder out a little work with an exacto knife on the old case but doable. Skill #5 You can see how I cut the plastic around the transponder to remove it to transfer it to the new shell. It is glued in so this is necessary to do to remove it without damaging it. You also have to transfer over the two metal contact tabs that touch the battery. A pair of small tweezers I recommend for doing this.
Put my 997.2 C4S up on stands using LiftBars. They are an excellent product; well-made, very stable, and a reasonably-priced addition to my Porsche tools. The trick with a low 911 is to first put each tire up on a >3 inch stand; I used a landscape block and 2x6s. This gave room to place my floor jack underneath the lift bar. Then, I changed the factory rotors for Zimmerman Z-Coat rotors and reinstalled 7mm H&R wheel spacers in the back and 5mm spacers in the front.
The car will stay on the stands until my wheels get back from powder-coating.
Put my 997.2 C4S up on stands using LiftBars. They are an excellent product; well-made, very stable, and a reasonably-priced addition to my Porsche tools. The trick with a low 911 is to first put each tire up on a >3 inch stand; I used a landscape block and 2x6s. This gave room to place my floor jack underneath the lift bar. Then, I changed the factory rotors for Zimmerman Z-Coat rotors and reinstalled 7mm H&R wheel spacers in the back and 5mm spacers in the front.
The car will stay on the stands until my wheels get back from powder-coating.
Nice work!
How high can you lift the car with the liftbars? High enough to drop the trans?
Looks good. Somehow, I think it's either quieter or smoother .... definitely smoother through the rpm range. These are reasonably priced used, easy install and pretty. Probably more bang for the buck noise wise if you have a stock exhaust.
Figure with a fisterD exhaust, sharkwerks center cross over, ipd plenum and this fabspeed air intake I'm probably done with the easy mods unless someone suggests something worth doing.
10-29-2018, 10:34 PM
