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Iron to PCCB swap is in progress today. Rear is done, having lunch now, and then will wrap up the front. Bye bye to brake dust and lots of rotating mass weight savings!
Very nice! I did the same recently but stuck with steel rotors for track use.
Dynamat job is done. I created a carboard template first before cutting out the Dynamat. The right door is a mirror image of the left, so you can use the template for both doors.
Here's the Dynamat attached to the left door.
I think I had to pull of the left door panel four times. After everything was done, the left door wouldn't open from the inside as I had not properly attached the release cable. With this fixed and everything back in place, I noticed a rattle in the door. So everything had to come off again, including the black metal panel. Luckily it was sufficient to remove all screws and push back the two rubber grommets on the left in order to get access to the interior. It turned out that the plug for the window sensor was dangling loose. I managed to get it clicked into the proper spot and connected again. This also fixed the issue of the window not opening automatically. Apparently this was forgotten during the car's reassembly after the respray a couple of years ago.
I can already tell that the droning from the bass speakers is considerably reduced. I'm not expecting miracles with regard to road noise (test drive on Tuesday), but I have enough Dynamat left to also do the rear wheel wells.
Nice! I used the same rotors for track use on my 987.2. I'm assuming you got them through FCP for lifetime replacement?
Right on! I was in a serious mental debate on going with girodisc instead, but man, $180 a rotor with free lifetime replacement was way too attractive. Not needing to win any races yet, lol
TCU Remap at Ninemeister (UK) and fitted MME Motorsport Paddleshift Kit to Momo Mod 7 Cup wheel
I didnt realise how important a TCU remap would be with a PDK car. Removal/reduction of Torque limits allows the gearbox to achieve a lot more torque in the lower gears. The acceleration is now relentless, and the shifts are a lot more crisp in Sport +
Dynamat job is done. I created a carboard template first before cutting out the Dynamat. The right door is a mirror image of the left, so you can use the template for both doors.
I think I had to pull of the left door panel four times. After everything was done, the left door wouldn't open from the inside as I had not properly attached the release cable. With this fixed and everything back in place, I noticed a rattle in the door. So everything had to come off again, including the black metal panel. Luckily it was sufficient to remove all screws and push back the two rubber grommets on the left in order to get access to the interior. It turned out that the plug for the window sensor was dangling loose. I managed to get it clicked into the proper spot and connected again. This also fixed the issue of the window not opening automatically. Apparently this was forgotten during the car's reassembly after the respray a couple of years ago.
I can already tell that the droning from the bass speakers is considerably reduced. I'm not expecting miracles with regard to road noise (test drive on Tuesday), but I have enough Dynamat left to also do the rear wheel wells.
I need to stop drooling over the carbon folding buckets and convince myself that the Recaro Sportster CS are a much more sensible option.
Originally Posted by TheMurse
If you figure out how to do this please let me know the secret.
Otherwise I'm looking at myself in the mirror and saying out loud that I'm willing to spend $15k for seats (practicing for when I tell my wife...)
$100 off RECARO orders for Rennlist forum members! You can reach me at tgibson@highline-autos.com or (855) 924-1333 for any questions or if you're ready to order.
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03-17-2024, 09:13 AM
