Orient Express

The reason that Rejex should go on the paint, is that it bonds with the surface that it is applied to. Wax, glaze, and Swirl Remover degrade over time, and will ablate off of the paint surface. If the Rejex is on the ablated material, it too will come off prematurely. If you are in a hurry, then applying Rejex over wax, etc. will not harm anything, it will just give you something to gripe about in 3 months when your paint surface needs a new coat of Rejex.

Apply Rejex to the clean paint surface of your car (remove the waxes, fillers etc. with a appropriate detergent). After you have properly applied the Rejex (air and surface temp below 85 degrees F) and let cure (12 hours or overnight), then if your paint has significant visible microscratches, use a swirl remover such as Meguires Swirl Remover #9 to hide them.

Keep in mind that , microscratches are an unavoidable fact of life with automotive finishes, and the best that one can do is to make the paint surface reflect light as uniformly as possible (this is what is called depth). Swirl Remover is simply a mixture of fillers, very very fine abrasives, and light aromatics that help smooth a surface to reflect light evenly.

For heavier scratches, a glaze can be used instead of or in addition to Swirl Remover. The nice thing about Rejex is that since it is not a wax, it does not produce swirl marks, even with removal by a orbital polisher.

Tracym

What is the best product to use to clean your car to get it ready for Rejex?

OCBen

Use a paintwork cleanser for removing wax and everything else off your paint. That’s what it’s for. Do not go cheap and use a household product that you would use on your pots and pans.

A swirl mark remover like the Meguiar’s #9 product (or any paint polish for that matter) removes scratches by removing the surrounding paint and leveling it to the same depth as the scratch so it appears to disappear. ... If you use it after you’ve applied Rejex then you will be removing, in succession, the Rejex and then the surrounding paint to remove those scratches. Swirl mark removers should really be considered paint removers when you’re trying to understand what they do, because they abrasively remove adjoining paint.

Orient Express

The general consensus is that any mild dishwashing detergent will strip off surface wax, fillers, etc. from a paint surface. However there are many that will recommend paint cleaners, which are usually repackaged and diluted detergent with the same makeup as dishwashing detergent. Either is just fine.

After you have stripped the surface, consider claying the surface to remove embedded contaminants. I recommend a complete surface strip and claying once a year.

There are many clay bar suppliers to choose from. I tend to use the ones from Adams Products or Mothers.

While swirl removers do contain very fine abrasives, their main action is the result of the fillers and aromatics they contain. If you feel that you do not have a light touch to apply a swirl remover, and are concerned that you will remove the Rejex coat, then after cleaning and claying your paint, then go to town with swirl remover to smooth the surface. Then wash off the swirl remover with paint cleaner or detergent again, and then apply the Rejex.

My personal experience is that in over 3 years of using Rejex, and occasionally using a Swirl Remover on top, I have not seen any degradation of the Rejex coating. I tend to apply a new coat of Rejex to the paint and wheels every 9-12 months, and to the windshield every 3-4 months.

OCBen

If you rely on the general consensus for expert advice you will generally be wrong. See what the real experts have to say:

http://www.meguiars.com/tips/article...selected_ID=10

I disagree. Again, see what the experts say:

http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=15

OCBen

Try this:

http://autopia-carcare.com/p21-123.html

Or this, which I personally use:

http://www.superiorcarcare.net/pinpainclean.html

A paintwork cleanser is not a "repackaged and diluted detergent with the same makeup as dishwashing detergent", unlike some misinformed opinions would have you believe.

The_Phantom

I wish it worked as well for me. I applied it last fall to my '03 C4S and despite the fact that I drove the car only sparingly in the winter (average maybe once a week) the salt from roads in Pennsylvania melted away every last drop of Rejex within a month or two.

TT Surgeon

The main problem with rejex is that you have to order it on line, what a hassle.

OCBen

I’m not sold on this product yet, certainly not for my paint finish – maybe for my wheels for supposedly easy brake dust cleanup. It sounds like this product was especially formulated for ease of bug splatter removal – "so slick bugs can’t stick". Then apparently the carnival marketing types got a hold of it and hyped the living crap out of it with such hyperbolic claims of "space age protection…crosslinked polymer building blocks…has a higher refractive index than waxes…produces richer, deeper looking colors …leaves a shinier, longer-lasting finish than wax" … that I’m quite leery of a product that relies on such heavy hyping to make a sale, especially if that sale can only be made sight-unseen online.

993-CT

I have tried Rejex based on numerous recommendations in the 993 board, but have found the product to be at best, no better/worse than many other products.

Rejex is touted for its longevity but IME it was very shortlived (less than even a good carnauba). Also Rejex does not look great on dark/black cars (IMHO - too reflective and not "deep" enough).

One product I am surprised by is Collinite Wax - traditional wax but lasts even longer than some polymer based products like NXT (and dirt cheap). I use it on wheels, bumper covers, daily driver, etc

MJones

If you DRIVE your car and collect bugs....RejeX works...
Show me another product that compares.
Waxes don't seem to help...

I love the this product shines better than that hyperbole.
Is there anything wrong with Turtle Wax?
Can you tell from looking what brand of wax was used....NO
It's personal preference...

With wax this will not wash off
With RejeX it did....

1999Porsche911

I still see no difference bewtween NXT and Rejex except for extended length of time your car has to be left in the garage? I have used both and, honestly, I have seen no difference in the level of protect, whether it be from bugs or other dirt. Both give a good shine and seal nicely. The NXT, however, seems to give a deeper shne to a properly cleaned finish. But, we all have our own preferences.

OCBen

While you may not be able to tell from looking what brand of wax was used, most wax experts can easily distinguish the differences between an inferior and a superior wax:

http://www.gurureports.org/

I know I can, and probably most of us **** retentive types here, can tell the difference between Turtle Wax and Klasse HGSG if you applied both products side to side on the same body panel and compared optical characteristics.

But you're right, if you DRIVE your car and collect bugs, then Rejex is for you. If you finesse over your car and are fanatical about a superior shine, then you obviously opt for the superior products.

MJones

OCBen...
So have you spent your $10 Guru Wax Report?

And their conclusions are

OCBen

LOL ..You kiddin' me? ... Isn't that crazy? Why don't they just publish that damn report and be done with it. ... Anyway, I don't need to see a breakdown of someone's testing results to know there is a difference between cheap and expensive waxes. I think Consumer Reports did some camparo tests on waxes once. I would trust them before I would trust someone offering to give me a sneak peek for a fee. There are other sources on this matter but I can't find a good one yet. As soon as I do I'll post it here for you if you like.