aasilvia

I love it! Go bold or go home! I assume you're pretty mechanically inclined to take on a project like this or just ridiculous deep pockets. Either way, do a manual swap, hell do an engine swap and just drive it. Like others have said though, since you knew what you were getting into, hope you paid pennies for it.

Petza914

For a 997.1 Driven FR50 5w50. That's what I run in both my .1 997s.

In my DFI Cayenne Turbo S and Audi Q5, I run the DI40 since it's made.fir DFI engines, but your 997 is not DFI.

silver_tt

My opinion is I would run DI50. We have been discussing this in the 996 forum and Mr. Navarro was kind enough to opine:

DI50 is an upgrade over FR50 but more expensive:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post19429005

Also DI40 can be run in a port injected engine and is an upgrade over DT40, just more expensive:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post19293583

Petza914

I disagree. DI50 is a 15w50 and a 15 cold viscosity rating is too high for these engines that need a 0 or 5 cold viscosity.

I'm currently doing a comparison between DT40 and DI40 in 2 of my DFI vehicles and also comparing DT40 and FR50 in 2 different non-DFI vehicles.

silver_tt

Thanks Petza, you always provide good information and that is very much appreciated. Hope you are doing well. I am passing on information from Charles. I would not run a 15W in the winter but probably it's not a great idea to drive these cars when it's super cold anyway if you want to avoid bore scoring. Technically a 15W should be good down to ~ -13F.....

punchdrunked

Lots of confusing and contradictory information - all well meaning, but is there a specific weight of oil that I should be using for the engine at its next service? Mileage is 98k, no track work and I’ll average around 2k miles a year.

Thanks

silver_tt

Why don't you shoot an email to LN Engineering and get the information straight from the horses mouth? I just met Charles in person yesterday, he's one of the nicest people I have ever spoken with. Def not your average engine guy, that is for sure.......

Petza and I are talking about the cold viscosity right now. There is no question you want to use a SAE 50 grade hot viscosity.

Sylverlee

Why DI40 over DT40?

silver_tt

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post18781215

This post covers it and then it is discussed in more detail later in the same thread. But the short answer is because DI40 is more mPAO where DT40 is more ester. It is also covered in that thread but mPAO is a PAO created using a metallocene catalyst that gives it a very specific and advantageous stereochemistry.

silver_tt

Here is the answer from Charles:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post19474976

15W is perfectly fine for these engines above freezing. So DI50 is going to be your best bet, especially if you already have bore scoring. As I already mentioned it is not a good idea to drive this car under freezing anyway but if you absolutely must, DI40 (which is on the cusp of being a SAE 50 grade anyway). Even DI40 would be an upgrade over DT40 or FR50 as covered in that thread.

If you go with DI40 it's currently 20% off on the LN Engineering website using the code "SICK20" but the promotion is about to end so you would need to act fast.

punchdrunked

Thanks all for your advice and guidance. So that I can get a definitive steer on this and noting that the car will be driven in the UK at ambient temps no lower than 12c (54F) likely at an average of 20c (68F) what is the best oil that I should put in a car exhibiting borescore symptoms and circa 98k miles?

Thanks 🙏

silver_tt

You are welcome. I don't mean this as a shot at anyone but you have to be careful what you read on on forums. The best oil you could put in the engine since you will never drive it below freezing is Driven DI50. I am in the USA but doing a Google search it looks like it is available there.

My wife lived in London for over 10 years before we were married and I used to always go there to visit, I love the UK. If you have not already, you could reach out to Lee Jenkins at Hartech. He is a wonderful person, always very polite and nice to speak with, and is as knowledgeable as anyone in the world on this engine. If your engine ever needs work he would be the one you want to do it, he is excellent.

8x57IRS

High quality Full-SAPS-Oil with high amount of Bor or Moly and ZDDP in 5W-50 or 10W-60 and a maximum change interval of 200 hours (mileage divided by average speed).