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In my experience, you can't run this oil much longer than 1-2k miles before it goes to ****. For sure, don't track any car with this oil.
Agree, def not for the track and even on the street probably good idea to take it easy. My wife and kids will go to Europe for the summer in two weeks so this is the perfect time to try it because I can completely control how the car is driven during the entire OCI.
Lake had recommended the 3,000 mile OCI with it to me some time back . That will take me just 2-3 months so it will be fast. I think any longer than that mileage wise is pushing it for sure.
FWIW, talked to Driven the other day about the difference in formula for DI40 and DI50. Same formula but more viscosity in DI50. They also said that as a result, there is no conflict in formula if you decide to run DI50 in warm months and DI40 in cold months.
I concur. If any of you want to run DI40 in place of DT40 or DI50 in place of FR50, that's not a bad idea either.
I concur. If any of you want to run DI40 in place of DT40 or DI50 in place of FR50, that's not a bad idea either.
Charles, thanks for the confirm. You will appreciate this, when i talked to Driven, they also said to always check with Charles on oil because he always tests it live in plenty of cars and situations, and can give good feedback as to what works.
Interesting read. I have a quick question for the fuel experts.
I have access to ethanol free 92 octane. I personally notice a mild 5-10% improvement in mpg as well as a subjective performance improvement. However, I can’t always fill up on the ethanol free. Reading through the thread it seems like switching is bad. So the question is
Should I keep using the ethanol free if I will be using E10 about 25% of the time or should I just stick with the E10 and use an additive?
Interesting read. I have a quick question for the fuel experts.
I have access to ethanol free 92 octane. I personally notice a mild 5-10% improvement in mpg as well as a subjective performance improvement. However, I can’t always fill up on the ethanol free. Reading through the thread it seems like switching is bad. So the question is
Should I keep using the ethanol free if I will be using E10 about 25% of the time or should I just stick with the E10 and use an additive?
M
yes use the ethanol free whenever possible and no problem to use regular E10 the rest of the time. If you do this 25% of the time you are effectively running E2.5.
Interesting read. I have a quick question for the fuel experts.
I have access to ethanol free 92 octane. I personally notice a mild 5-10% improvement in mpg as well as a subjective performance improvement. However, I can’t always fill up on the ethanol free. Reading through the thread it seems like switching is bad. So the question is
Should I keep using the ethanol free if I will be using E10 about 25% of the time or should I just stick with the E10 and use an additive?
M
It would be my recommendation not to switch between ethanol free and E10 because you can end up with phase separation when going to ethanol free where the water comes out of suspension.
I thought phase separation was more if you were running pure ethanol then switch. This is interesting as my father regularly switches between ethanol free whenever he can get it (outside the city) to E10 (inside the city) with no issues for years but I will have to let him know. Thanks.
It would be my recommendation not to switch between ethanol free and E10 because you can end up with phase separation when going to ethanol free where the water comes out of suspension.
I have been switching on and off for the last few years. objectively (MPG) the car does better on the ethanol free than on the E10. Interestingly I've noticed I get the best MPG when I switch from Ethnol free to E10 but only that one tank. The MPG returns to typical for E10 after that.
Regardless looks like I will just be using E10 in the future (which is way more convenient)
Thank you and thanks again for the info! I am going to try this in a Audi 2014 Q5 2.0T for my next OCI. The OCI likely will be a lot of highway driving and I never bang on this car that hard. I will run it for 3,000 miles and will change the oil filter mid-way at 1,500 miles. Then I will immediately switch back to DI40. Since I am only running this in the summer I am not concerned it is a 10W and about the hot viscosity you are right, this is not an oil you want to run long or hard -- 1.7 cSt @ 100C, thin as water haha
Here is the virgin analysis from the SDiax website for reference (bottle looks slightly different but i believe it is the same product):
The 1.7 cSt reading above didn't make sense -- that is way too low for a SAE 30 grade. I communicated with Lake and that is a typo, it should be 10.7, which makes a lot more sense.
He also mentioned to me in the email that the Restore product has been discontinued, which has me a little perplexed from the standpoint that others have said this (Charles stated it above) but I have acquired some as shown above. I just wonder where the confusion or idea came from that is has been discontinued. I am about to run this oil very soon, finishing the last 500 miles of my current OCI so trying to get this thing zipped up and make sure I don't have bad information.
***EDIT: Talked to Lake again this morning and sent him this picture. Sounds like I got the right product, he thought it was discontinued due to several customers telling him they couldn't find it. I think part of the confusion here is that you can only buy this directly from a Cummins shop. Adding to the confusion there is a Valvoline Restore and Protect product that visually looks similar -- but it is a totally different oil and is $25/gallon. $25/gallon is WAY TOO CHEAP for a full ester, and in fact is not. I am going to run this for a 3K OCI and will post the results. Thank you all for the information.
Really not that much difference since it was almost a 5W to begin with (the change was probably more driven by marketing but who knows that is speculation on my part) but FCP Euro still has the 0W likely until stock is depleted.
Really not that much difference since it was almost a 5W to begin with (the change was probably more driven by marketing but who knows that is speculation on my part) but FCP Euro still has the 0W likely until stock is depleted.
OK I suppose I can get away with 5w for Macan GTS in Chicago winters. But it looks like they only make 15w-50? I drive my Carrera all the way up to when snow and salt hits. Is 15w ok for freezing temps in the cold AM start?
You for sure can get away with 5W in Chicago winters. I am just over in Saint Louis, very similar weather, and run DI40.
As far as running a 15W-50 in Chicago winters, I would not. I think DI40 is an excellent choice for your vehicle. If you look at its viscosity it is almost a SAE 50 grade anyway.
You can run DI50 in the Carrera in the summers on the track if you want (but in that case I would probably roll with XP9 or XP6 but you would need to drain it after each track weekend). DI40 and DI50 are fully compatible and there is no additive competition.
Driven told me that they are interchangeable. You can run DI40 in the cold weather months and DI50 in the wam weather months. That's what I plan on doing in Chicagoland in my 996.
05-09-2024, 12:07 PM
