I bought a Borescored C2S Tip
#1
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I couldn’t help myself. Now what?
It’s a 2006 C2S TIP Cab - 98k miles. Full service history.
Sooty exhaust tips, faint tapping from the engine, but good cold oil presssure and consumption is normal. Occasional puff of white/grey smoke in start up, driver side exhaust mainly.
The question is what can I do to maintain as is until I save up the cash for a rebuild? Or use for summer and sell as is for someone else to have a go?
I’m thinking good fuel, 10w 50 oil. Fuel injector cleaner. Cat cleaner. Anything else?
Thanks for reading and wish me luck.
It’s a 2006 C2S TIP Cab - 98k miles. Full service history.
Sooty exhaust tips, faint tapping from the engine, but good cold oil presssure and consumption is normal. Occasional puff of white/grey smoke in start up, driver side exhaust mainly.
The question is what can I do to maintain as is until I save up the cash for a rebuild? Or use for summer and sell as is for someone else to have a go?
I’m thinking good fuel, 10w 50 oil. Fuel injector cleaner. Cat cleaner. Anything else?
Thanks for reading and wish me luck.
#2
Rennlist Member
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Change your plugs and coils
i would also recommended Driven oil DI40 with ceratec
remember always warm oil by driving and always hit redline after oil is up to temp
i would also recommended Driven oil DI40 with ceratec
remember always warm oil by driving and always hit redline after oil is up to temp
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#3
Rennlist Member
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Driven FR50 Oil - Shortened Oil Change intervals (3K)
Driven Injector cleaner or High PEA Fuel injector Cleaner
Have you actually inspected the bores?
Sooty exhaust pipes are normal, drastically uneven soot is an issue.
Driven Injector cleaner or High PEA Fuel injector Cleaner
Have you actually inspected the bores?
Sooty exhaust pipes are normal, drastically uneven soot is an issue.
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punchdrunked (05-31-2024),
TerrestrialFlyte (06-01-2024)
#4
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Thanks for the quick replies, guys. You’ve both recommended Driven oils, but different ones. Which would be best for my application.
Regarding the bores, I haven’t personally inspected them, the seller had and claimed #6 was in a bad way. The car idled no problem and even after starting the car, switching it off shortly afterwards and counting down for the oil level, it still read one notch down from the top and the oil pressure was good. I have a MY07 base 3.6 so know what these cars are like somewhat.
I hadn’t considered the plugs and coils but I will now.
Regarding the bores, I haven’t personally inspected them, the seller had and claimed #6 was in a bad way. The car idled no problem and even after starting the car, switching it off shortly afterwards and counting down for the oil level, it still read one notch down from the top and the oil pressure was good. I have a MY07 base 3.6 so know what these cars are like somewhat.
I hadn’t considered the plugs and coils but I will now.
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Graufuchs (05-31-2024)
#5
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You might want to check out this thread. If you truly do have bore scoring, the product mentioned might be worth a shot.
With that said, you've gotten some good suggestions already.
Bore Scoring Repair? Ceramic? Tribotex - wow.... - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
With that said, you've gotten some good suggestions already.
Bore Scoring Repair? Ceramic? Tribotex - wow.... - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
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punchdrunked (05-31-2024)
#6
Rennlist Member
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Thanks for the quick replies, guys. You’ve both recommended Driven oils, but different ones. Which would be best for my application.
Regarding the bores, I haven’t personally inspected them, the seller had and claimed #6 was in a bad way. The car idled no problem and even after starting the car, switching it off shortly afterwards and counting down for the oil level, it still read one notch down from the top and the oil pressure was good. I have a MY07 base 3.6 so know what these cars are like somewhat.
I hadn’t considered the plugs and coils but I will now.
Regarding the bores, I haven’t personally inspected them, the seller had and claimed #6 was in a bad way. The car idled no problem and even after starting the car, switching it off shortly afterwards and counting down for the oil level, it still read one notch down from the top and the oil pressure was good. I have a MY07 base 3.6 so know what these cars are like somewhat.
I hadn’t considered the plugs and coils but I will now.
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punchdrunked (05-31-2024)
#7
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I forgot to mention that it had a few DTC’s on my Foxwell. Some were A/c related but the one that concerned me was a P0073 (ambient temperature sensor) - I’m not sure whether they’re linked but the car recently had a new water pump, thermostat and a/c regas. The 997.2 has the ambient temp sensor behind the front bumper - is in the same location for the .1’s?
I didn’t realise that the C2S had a 3rd radiator in the front. The C2 doesn’t .
I didn’t realise that the C2S had a 3rd radiator in the front. The C2 doesn’t .
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#8
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Buying a Borescored TIP??---->Hopefully you didn't pay more than a "roller" price of $10K for it.
#9
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You just bought the best Porsche you could buy. Cheap and run the hell out of until it blows!
I bet you will enjoy it more than most P car owners.
I bet you will enjoy it more than most P car owners.
Last edited by myltz400; 06-01-2024 at 09:03 AM.
#10
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Boxster 986 anniversary, nah!
Cayman S 987.2, nah!
Miata, nah!
Z4m, nah!
370z, nah!
S2000, nah!
TTRS, nah!
Another SLK, nah!
And then this came up. Right on, brother. What could possibly go wrong?
Last edited by punchdrunked; 05-31-2024 at 12:53 PM.
#11
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Run it till it dies. I bet it’ll still go for a long time.
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#12
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The severity of the scoring will determine which oil you need shoot LN engineering a message they gave answers
#14
Three Wheelin'
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As for what's next? My Borescoring adventures - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
My 2006 997S used quart of oil 500 miles. That is when I know what's next.