New Vendor Intro: Heavy Knobs
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 915
Likes: 531
From: Nashville
Looking forward to the real world reviews! I'm almost certain to buy this. I haven't found another **** I like better that doesn't require changing the interior trim, at least for reasonable investment.
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 238
Likes: 63
There are two options:
You can very easily slide all 4 inserts in without removing the shift boot - TBH that could be done in as little as 5 minutes.
If you want to be able to remove the inserts, you gotta pull the boot - again, even this is very easy to do and I photographed every single step in (I hope, a lot of) detail.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Likes: 135
From: Vancouver
Everyone should have received or be receiving their first delivery by now.
As a reminder, I've already got 16 folks on the interested list for the second batch, which I'm capping at 20 before restocking again.
As a reminder, I've already got 16 folks on the interested list for the second batch, which I'm capping at 20 before restocking again.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,870
Likes: 367
From: San Diego <->Knoxville
@HeavyKnobs Did you test them out without the tape? I’m trying to determine if the tape is needed or an alternative option?
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 238
Likes: 63
@HeavyKnobs Did you test them out without the tape? I’m trying to determine if the tape is needed or an alternative option?
- For the lower 3 pieces, I generally found that they fit snug enough on their own. Naturally, I had to account for some small amount of casting variation and the potential of the cavities having minute differences.
- The upper piece had to be slightly smaller than the cavity, because the three prongs need room inwards to flex when the cap is being attached. Therefore this piece has a bit of room around it to move once reassembled, hence the tape approach.
- If you are using installation method two, you can easily test out whether tape is needed by installing the weights while the shift **** assembly is off the rod and shaking it - if there's any movement you'll know.
- Overall though - I still recommend putting something between the metal and plastic - because there's resonance there and I've now found by no accident in taking apart my center console at least 10 times that plastic on plastic or metal on plastic should have something put in between to dampen vibrations.
What I am doing:
- The v1 included tape, but am exploring if a double sided strip of tape is better to include - it would also look slightly better.
- Thinking about finishing the inserts in a rubberized coating - but I'd hate to lose the brass finish, which actually in later iterations will be fully polished
- The much more costly approach, but with enough feedback on these potentially altering the shape of the parts/molds to reduce that variability
In any case - I do recommend placing something between the metal and plastic point of contacts.
Last edited by HeavyKnobs; Apr 16, 2021 at 11:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 238
Likes: 63
done.
As a quick snapshot - here's how that list is looking for next week's batch:
1. Silvertoy
2. carmanah1965
3. KTM
4. Jonny-Nine11
5. JoshGordon
6. Elonash
7. RecruiterBruno
8. DavidBarry
9. Discomonkey
10. VT Blue
11. Sporty
12. MissileFlyer
13. Bomba
14. Theandycandy
15. ryanbkj
16. dudleyuqa331
17. mpath
18. turbojimbo
19. Quickxotic1
20. RyansRebel
As a quick snapshot - here's how that list is looking for next week's batch:
1. Silvertoy
2. carmanah1965
3. KTM
4. Jonny-Nine11
5. JoshGordon
6. Elonash
7. RecruiterBruno
8. DavidBarry
9. Discomonkey
10. VT Blue
11. Sporty
12. MissileFlyer
13. Bomba
14. Theandycandy
15. ryanbkj
16. dudleyuqa331
17. mpath
18. turbojimbo
19. Quickxotic1
20. RyansRebel
Last edited by HeavyKnobs; Apr 16, 2021 at 11:24 AM.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,870
Likes: 367
From: San Diego <->Knoxville
Great question - I have tested and learned the following:
- For the lower 3 pieces, I generally found that they fit snug enough on their own. Naturally, I had to account for some small amount of casting variation and the potential of the cavities having minute differences.
- The upper piece had to be slightly smaller than the cavity, because the three prongs need room inwards to flex when the cap is being attached. Therefore this piece has a bit of room around it to move once reassembled, hence the tape approach.
- If you are using installation method two, you can easily test out whether tape is needed by installing the weights while the shift **** assembly is off the rod and shaking it - if there's any movement you'll know.
- Overall though - I still recommend putting something between the metal and plastic - because there's resonance there and I've now found by no accident in taking apart my center console at least 10 times that plastic on plastic or metal on plastic should have something put in between to dampen vibrations.
What I am doing:
- The v1 included tape, but am exploring if a double sided strip of tape is better to include - it would also look slightly better.
- Thinking about finishing the inserts in a rubberized coating - but I'd hate to lose the brass finish, which actually in later iterations will be fully polished
- The much more costly approach, but with enough feedback on these potentially altering the shape of the parts/molds to reduce that variability
In any case - I do recommend placing something between the metal and plastic point of contacts.
- For the lower 3 pieces, I generally found that they fit snug enough on their own. Naturally, I had to account for some small amount of casting variation and the potential of the cavities having minute differences.
- The upper piece had to be slightly smaller than the cavity, because the three prongs need room inwards to flex when the cap is being attached. Therefore this piece has a bit of room around it to move once reassembled, hence the tape approach.
- If you are using installation method two, you can easily test out whether tape is needed by installing the weights while the shift **** assembly is off the rod and shaking it - if there's any movement you'll know.
- Overall though - I still recommend putting something between the metal and plastic - because there's resonance there and I've now found by no accident in taking apart my center console at least 10 times that plastic on plastic or metal on plastic should have something put in between to dampen vibrations.
What I am doing:
- The v1 included tape, but am exploring if a double sided strip of tape is better to include - it would also look slightly better.
- Thinking about finishing the inserts in a rubberized coating - but I'd hate to lose the brass finish, which actually in later iterations will be fully polished
- The much more costly approach, but with enough feedback on these potentially altering the shape of the parts/molds to reduce that variability
In any case - I do recommend placing something between the metal and plastic point of contacts.
- Protects coated items against acids, abrasion, corrosion, impact, salts, moisture and weathering
- Provided non-slip, comfortable and controlled grip
- Solvent based air dry synthetic rubber coating
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 568
From: North/Central, NJ
Thanks for following up. I’m wondering if a coat of plastidip clear might be a cleaner alternative. This is their info. I figured this would factor in the minute distance from the mold.
- Protects coated items against acids, abrasion, corrosion, impact, salts, moisture and weathering
- Provided non-slip, comfortable and controlled grip
- Solvent based air dry synthetic rubber coating