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Thanks for clarifying. None of those oils like Castrol or Motul are track oils, including DT40; they are all so-called street oils. Race oils are different than API street oils. For example racing oils generally have much higher levels of moly.
Thanks for clarifying. None of those oils like Castrol or Motul are track oils, including DT40; they are all so-called street oils. Race oils are different than API street oils. For example racing oils generally have much higher levels of moly.
Thanks for clarifying. None of those oils like Castrol or Motul are track oils, including DT40; they are all so-called street oils. Race oils are different than API street oils. For example racing oils generally have much higher levels of moly.
I was looking for the 300V if I couldn't find the XP9. Nick from Motul posted this about their oils.
I do not fully understand his comments on 300V since it's marketed as a "racing oil" but in the post he talks about running it for "regular street driving" and later down the thread says you can use 5K mile OCIs with 300V. It would not make sense to run a true track oil on the street and unthinkable to run 5K OCIs doing street/daily driving with it. Racing oils have much higher levels of antiwear and friction reducing additives but don't have the proper dispersant, detergent package, etc that is required for daily driving or extended drain intervals. You wouldn't want to run long OCIs in a DFI engine with no soot dispersant for example. The racing oil should be drained after a track weekend because it lacks or has very low levels of anticorrosion additives as well.
Latest report, first after transitioning to Driven DT40. This was a longer run than last time mileage wise. Aluminum and copper do seem a bit high, but I submit to the experts here for thoughts.
I’m terrified of bore scoring so trying to stay very much on top of things. On Driven DT40, oil filter magnet, magnetic drain plug, religious about warm up procedure, etc.
All this talk about moly...is switching to Driven DT40 the reason my molybdenum count went up so much from one report to the next?
I do not fully understand his comments on 300V since it's marketed as a "racing oil" but in the post he talks about running it for "regular street driving" and later down the thread says you can use 5K mile OCIs with 300V. It would not make sense to run a true track oil on the street and unthinkable to run 5K OCIs doing street/daily driving with it. Racing oils have much higher levels of antiwear and friction reducing additives but don't have the proper dispersant, detergent package, etc that is required for daily driving or extended drain intervals. You wouldn't want to run long OCIs in a DFI engine with no soot dispersant for example. The racing oil should be drained after a track weekend because it lacks or has very low levels of anticorrosion additives as well.
I've been running 300V 15W-50 on my Ducati twin and Yamaha race bikes for over 10 yrs and never had an issue. This is with the R6 having a 15,800 max RPM redlining 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear, top speed about 160mph at Laguna Seca, Thunder Hill and Willow Springs.
Even though our cars are a bit more picky, do you really think it's that risky with the 300V?
What's a legit racing oil then? I've used the green 300V on several race weekends and my engine didn't blow up.
Driven XP9 is a legit track oil. I also just looked at a UOA from 300V and the moly is too low for a true race oil. Running a street oil on the track doesn't mean your engine will blow-up. Probably most people at a PCA HPDE are running a street oil......
Quick oil question. I somehow have a full unopened case of Driven GP-1 15w-40 which is at least 2 years old, probably 3. I currently use DT-40 in my 996 and DI-40 in my 997.2. If I decide to do a HPDE session would the GP-1 be a good track day oil?
GP-1 is for the air cooled engines, is not a full synthetic (although in some ways it can perform just as well or possibly even better in some aspects), etc. I would sell it and use XP9 instead, which is better suited to your application.
My car came with the bog standard Mobil 1 0W-40. I sent it in to Blackstone when I did an oil change, but switched to LiquiMoly 5W-40. Reading through the threads here, I may just switch to Driven DT-40 - if I do, is there any point in sending the old LiquiMoly I drain out for analysis? Seems not helpful to use a different oil.
06-06-2023, 02:45 PM
