arscottp

Not to sound like @Mr.Moose , but copper / mile is bascially the same between all these samples. And even less concerning considering the measurement precision is 1 ppm.

Petza914

Valid point but the other metals went down even with the extra mileage sonwhy didn't copper. Too soon to really know but the next sample will be interesting if run to the same 5000 mile interval or the earlier 3000 mile interval. Single digits on all those numbers are fine though.

Wayne Smith

Well, four oil changes with LM blue jug and MoS2 to remove all of the old Mobil One 0-40 oil I had been using for 135K miles and here is the report. It would appear that my numbers, especially aluminum and iron, have gotten significantly worse, especially when taken as a percentage increase.

Unfortunately it looks like a lot of prior history was lost, but all previous Mobil One numbers were similar.

This is a result for the same 9A1 motor with basically the same driving style. So it's a bit scientific. Not perfect. But hopefully insightful.

Now I have Driven DI in the car. More comparisons to be had in the future.

B453D

Moly dropped to less than half of the Mobil 1 test; Phosphorus and Zinc dropped as well. Not sure if these are important with the 9A1 (or M9X for that matter).

RandyVW

So I searched this thread but not seeing much about LM's Molygen oil.

Anybody got any UOA feedback yet on it??

I'm about to send off my first UOA which will be to Blackstone and two M1 0W-40 oil changes since fresh rebuild in 2019 w/ 7,000 miles on motor since.

But heading into summer and having only owned the car for 6 months (and about 2,000 miles on current oil) I'm hoping to get a good baseline and then see where I'm at.

I'm tempted to stick with M1 but go to 5w-40 for summer...........(I'll probably average 3,000 miles/yr so not sure M1 can't certainly do a good job)......... since car has moved from NorCal to So Cal but I understand M1 0w-40 and 5w-40 formulations are different. (more/less POA content?)

But LM's Molygen appears to look like a promising oil on paper without the brutal price tag. (Molybdenum is not cheap lubricant)

TIA

BmwPIguy

Has anyone with a 997.1 switched from DT40 to DI40? I know that both Lake and Charles are recommending DI40 for 997.1 now. Apparently it is the superior oil, just slightly more expensive.

Would love to see some UOA comparing DT40/DI40 if anyone has.

alaris

This is news to me, do you have a source for this info?I’ve been pleased with my oil analysis results on DT40 and due for an oil change soon. I’m going to email Lake and ask.

alaris

Gotta love a quick response! From Lake:

”We do see better results from the DI40 over the DT40 in both 996 and 997 engines.”

Petza914

Interesting.

The only direct comparison info I have is multiple DT40 analyses followed by one DI40 in our DFI Audi Q5 and the DI40 results were better. Very similar numbers across the board but with lower iron wear and less fuel dilution, but again that's also a DFI motor so the type the DI40 is designed for. In that engine, both oils are becoming acidic during the 5k mile intervals I had been using, so with each subsequent change im reducing the change interval until I get TAN and TBN numbers I'm happy with. Last one was at 4,400 and the next one will be 4,000. Don't know whether it's the use case for this car (my daughter's at college so more short trips than long ones) and very non-aggressive driving

I run the FR50 in my 997s for the higher film strength when hot, but if there was a DI based 5w50, I'd consider it for the 997.1s as I have good historical data on DT40 FR50 for comparison. Wife's car is due for a change in the next couple weeks where I'll get my first FR50 analysis back on it, but it's use case has changed vs my prior reports where it's not driven much - maybe 3k miles over 2 years - similar to my 997.

Sporty

So, is it ok to mix DT40 and DI40 in a 997.1 3.6? I have three bottles of DT40 left (DT40 in there now) and need to reorder oil for my upcoming oil change within the next 500 miles; I 'd like to go to the DI40 based on the recent revelation, but dont want to 'waste' / not use the DT40 I have left.

Thanks!

Hootsama

This is an interesting discussion, but it's getting harder over time for me to select "the best" oil for my 997.1, not easier. DT, FR, DI. Jeez. No wonder people just stick with Mobil 1.

Petza914

I wouldn't. Either buy some additional quarts of DT40 to do one more oil change to use up what you've got or use it a lawnmower, generator, or something else. I don't like mixing different oils.

nydog

Anyone running Redline oil?

B453D

IMO, Mobil1, Liqui-Moly, Castrol, etc. are fine. My car's previous owner put 100K+ on her using Mobil1 0W/40. The first UOA that I ran with SpeeDiagnostix showed the engine is in great health; however, Mobil1's viscosity at 100°C was less than optimal. This was at 3K miles.

This car is my daily and I attend five HPDE's a year. The UOA with Driven DT40 shows all measurements are well within range and the viscosity is where it should be.

I want another 100K out of this engine, so Driven's ability to maintain viscosity is worth the initial extra cost (FCP Euro for the win).

The UOA process adds a bit of complexity to a basic oil change, but the data is valuable and should guide your decision as to which oil is best for your particular situation.

Petza914

I don't really understand a statement that says Mobil 1 is fine, but it's viscosity is lower than it should be....that makes it not fine.

Oil really only needs to do one job - maintain it's viscosity to keep metal parts sliding past each other without wearing them out, so maintain proper viscosity for the engine's operating temperature range and show as little metal wear as possible.. If the viscosity is too low, the metal wear will suffer.