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I see so the oil analysis is for whatever was before the DT40, thank you. But either way the 0 for fuel dilution is an error in the report and should be addressed.
I emailed Lake after I saw that value, and this was his response:
“That was a bit odd, but that can happen, especially if the oil sample is open to atmosphere for a few minutes.
Thanks,”
I live in Colorado in a higher elevation and things just evaporate fast here - I wonder if that is related. In all cases I will be better about sealing the sample as soon as I take it.
what is the consensus of using Driven injector cleaner. The PCA article said every other fill up - but that frequency sounded like a lot.
I will absolutely do what it takes to have a well sorted and documented engine, and am looking for best practices.
Thanks for sharing Lake's response. I believe him but that is sort of crazy and means precautions should be taken not to expose the oil sample..? I am surprised it went all the way to 0 so fast, that is peculiar. Your comment about Colorado and higher elevation may very well be relevant, thank you.
Driven injector defender should be used once per OCI just before your oil change. Every other fill-up would be if you do not have access to high quality fuel like Top Tier. I agree with Petza that the iron and copper is higher than it should be but the switch to DT40 will likely take care of that.
I applaud you for your approach and using best practices. Strong work......
Quick related UOA question. I have two used oil samples sitting in mason jars in my garage from oil changes on both of my 911s done in mid-January. I just received my sample kits from Speediagnostix and want to know if I can still get good test results after the samples sat in a non-heated garage for nearly a month? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Good question but for some attributes like oxidation I think it would be better to sample and send it off right away vs the oil being a month old. Fuel dilution could also be off as E39to911 points out above. You could always send them in if you wanted to or had a specific concern you were looking at and take the results with a grain of salt, else just use the kit for the next time you do an oil change right away. Just my 2 cents.....
Aluminum seems to have dropped back to historical trend. Appreciate any thoughts on the spike.
Sometimes this working for a living gets in the way of the important stuff, so the 6K interval. Have a tickler to do the next UOA at 4K.
No idea on the cST except has been the normal range since about 50K miles. Normal like rarely above 13...majority highway miles maybe?
This thread and graphs are great info and analysis to ruminate over.
About to do an oil and filter change and am leaning toward moving to Liqui Moly 5w-40 based upon what I'm seeing here and these graph results.
While I also like the stats on the Motul, Motul is manufactured in France and LM is manufactured in Germany. Anyone's thoughts on this and the importance (or un-importance) as such as it pertains to a our German-made Porches?
This thread and graphs are great info and analysis to ruminate over.
About to do an oil and filter change and am leaning toward moving to Liqui Moly 5w-40 based upon what I'm seeing here and these graph results.
While I also like the stats on the Motul, Motul is manufactured in France and LM is manufactured in Germany. Anyone's thoughts on this and the importance (or un-importance) as such as it pertains to a our German-made Porches?
If you want higher bearing wear (iron & copper) switch to LM. If you want the lowest metal wear from all metals in the engine (aluminum, copper, iron, lead) use Driven - unfortunately for all the other oil companies, it's that simple.
It honestly doesn't really make any difference at all that the oil is manufactured in the country that the car originates. What matters is only the chemistry and most importantly how it performs in the real world in your engine.
It honestly doesn't really make any difference at all that the oil is manufactured in the country that the car originates. What matters is only the chemistry and most importantly how it performs in the real world in your engine.
I prefer Driven's DI40 for street use in both port-injected and direct-injected gasoline engines, which is also corroborated by test results in this thread.
If you want higher bearing wear (iron & copper) switch to LM. If you want the lowest metal wear from all metals in the engine (aluminum, copper, iron, lead) use Driven - unfortunately for all the other oil companies, it's that simple.
Driven DT or Di 40?...
What would be your 1st choice for my 2011 C2S 997.2 w/45,000 miles? and your 2nd oil recommendation/choice as well, please? Thx!
If you want higher bearing wear (iron & copper) switch to LM. If you want the lowest metal wear from all metals in the engine (aluminum, copper, iron, lead) use Driven - unfortunately for all the other oil companies, it's that simple.
Pete you're a knowledgeable enthusiast, but I will disagree with you here. I use Liquimoly Leichtlauf Hi-Tec and have metal wear numbers in the low single digits. Take a look at my last post in this thread. Granted I also use Ceratec. I just changed my oil last weekend and switched to LM Molygen since it has the moly formulated into it. I still used Ceratec since they work differently. I sent my last sample in. Unfortunately I almost forgot to collect it and got the end of the stream. I indicated that on the sample. Not sure how that will play out.
For the OP, the driven oil is fantastic. It also has a fantastic price! Take a look at LM Molygen. It's a similar formulation but less costly. It's a new formula for LM, however, so I don't think there are UOA's posted for that oil (yet).
02-08-2024, 09:38 AM
