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Old 02-16-2023, 09:20 AM
  #511  
Carreralicious
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Originally Posted by silver_tt
This is a point worth repeating and applies to all oils. The ideal approach is to use an oil that is formulated and ready to go out of the bottle without needing to try to play chemist. Often there are specific techniques required to achieve optimization and are therefore best controlled at the production facility rather than in a garage (for example blending additives at high temperature while mixing to homogenize it).

I see people in the Audi community running the cheapest oil you can buy on sale at Walmart, buying 2 or 3 different oils and mixing them all thinking it's somehow better, etc. Then they wonder why at 100K miles their rings are beat........ clogged with carbon (DFI soot) so badly they don't move any longer and the ring seal is crap; at which time their oil consumption starts to increase exponentially and the motor will eat itself alive
Yes, I specifically asked them that question because I know some folks here suggest to dump in a can of Ceratec or MoS2 to their Motul or Mobil oil. Btw, I asked Mobil the same question and they replied the same: do not add in aftermarket additives to their oil as it would upset their original additive pack.
Old 02-16-2023, 09:24 AM
  #512  
silver_tt
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Ya that makes sense. TYVM for the information.
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Old 02-16-2023, 09:37 AM
  #513  
Petza914
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Originally Posted by silver_tt
This is a point worth repeating and applies to all oils. The ideal approach is to use an oil that is formulated and ready to go out of the bottle without needing to try to play chemist. Often there are specific techniques required to achieve optimization and are therefore best controlled at the production facility rather than in a garage (for example blending additives at high temperature while mixing to homogenize it).

I see people in the Audi community running the cheapest oil you can buy on sale at Walmart, buying 2 or 3 different oils and mixing them all thinking it's somehow better, etc. Then they wonder why at 100K miles their rings are beat........ clogged with carbon (DFI soot) so badly they don't move any longer and the ring seal is crap; at which time their oil consumption starts to increase exponentially and the motor will eat itself alive
Totally agree. I don't add anything to my oil and why I use the oil I do. It's formulated to work great right out of the bottle with high Moly, high zinc, and high phosphorus. I'd rather replace $2,000 cats than a $30,000 engine but haven't had a cat failure so far and some of my cars don't even have cats anymore (914 & both 928s).
Old 02-16-2023, 09:48 AM
  #514  
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Originally Posted by Petza914
Totally agree. I don't add anything to my oil and why I use the oil I do. It's formulated to work great right out of the bottle with high Moly, high zinc, and high phosphorus. I'd rather replace $2,000 cats than a $30,000 engine but haven't had a cat failure so far and some of my cars don't even have cats anymore (914 & both 928s).
100% agree. And on top of it I personally don't think running a high ZDDP oil will even kill your cats unless maybe you are just drinking oil at a ridiculous rate (eg a quart every 100 miles), in which case you have much bigger problems. I replaced the cats on my 996 C4S a long time ago when they failed and I did a post mortem by cutting them open -- the cause of the failure was broken honeycomb from vibration and back then the Zinc levels in oil were higher. Even if the cats were somehow really a factor to consider I completely agree with you. Replacing a cat or two every 10 or 20 years is really not a big deal...... dropping your engine to tear it down is.
Old 02-16-2023, 02:42 PM
  #515  
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Another interesting reply I got from Motul was when I followed up to ask them if the 8100 Xcess Gen2 5W-40 was Group III or Group IV based, to which they replied with the below. It’s all Group 3. 😁 It’s ok…I still like this oil.

“The answer is no, sir, the 5W-40 contains no PAO in its formula. The X-max 0W-40 does.”

Last edited by Carreralicious; 02-16-2023 at 02:44 PM.
Old 02-16-2023, 07:48 PM
  #516  
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So they all say "don't add additives to our oil" yet they all manufacture oil additives... It was interesting to note that Motul is suggesting that they will begin to add moly in a future update to their formula. Moly works, no doubt, so it makes sense they would add it unless economics prevented it. Since the average Joe just gets whatever jiffy oil change provides, I can see why they wouldn't want their oil costing $18 a quart. Maybe that's why they make the additives, so the customer can choose to fund the economics to get better performance. Driven fills that niche, but it's a small niche in the grand scheme.
Old 02-16-2023, 08:26 PM
  #517  
ADias
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Originally Posted by BucketList
So they all say "don't add additives to our oil" yet they all manufacture oil additives... It was interesting to note that Motul is suggesting that they will begin to add moly in a future update to their formula. Moly works, no doubt, so it makes sense they would add it unless economics prevented it. Since the average Joe just gets whatever jiffy oil change provides, I can see why they wouldn't want their oil costing $18 a quart. Maybe that's why they make the additives, so the customer can choose to fund the economics to get better performance. Driven fills that niche, but it's a small niche in the grand scheme.
MoS2 does not unbalance any oil's additive package - it is a solid lubricant and chemically inert, very much like coating a shaft with graphite. I have been using it with Motul before and now LM and I am happy with the benefits.
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Old 02-18-2023, 09:19 PM
  #518  
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My lastest report.



Attached Images
File Type: pdf
Q74817 (1).pdf (63.0 KB, 21 views)

Last edited by nydog; 02-18-2023 at 09:25 PM.
Old 02-18-2023, 09:33 PM
  #519  
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Originally Posted by nydog
My lastest report.


From what I see here, you could certainly go to 4,000 and let's see what that looks like. Looks like it will be fine.
Old 03-16-2023, 09:34 AM
  #520  
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Another interesting tidbit for those Motul fans out there like me who were considering using their ester based Sport Ester 5W-40, their technical support manager there confirmed to me that they are reformulating and rebranding it, and mentioned the below when I asked about if it could go one year before an oil change:

“With regards to the Sport 5W-40, we have some good news: it is about to be revamped and rebranded as 8100 Power 5W-40. This will bring its API level to SP. The current one is an API SN, so it is safe to say that a 5k mi / 1 year OCI is achievable, unless your engine is running overly rich because of tuning.”
Old 03-16-2023, 11:51 AM
  #521  
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Well seeing that oil report makes feel all warm and fuzzy about mine. Very similar.

Is the Silicon the main tell for bore scoring? Saw that in other oil analysis videos/reports.

Cheers
Old 03-16-2023, 12:35 PM
  #522  
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Originally Posted by BHMav8r
Well seeing that oil report makes feel all warm and fuzzy about mine. Very similar.

Is the Silicon the main tell for bore scoring? Saw that in other oil analysis videos/reports.

Cheers
No, silicon is essentially dirt in most cases from a vacuum leak or poor air filtration. When silicon is high, metal wear usually goes up too, and often it's the copper and iron from the bearings that get it the worst.

Bore scoring usually shows up as high aluminum as the metal is scraped from the cylinder walls.
Old 03-24-2023, 01:55 PM
  #523  
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Originally Posted by Charles Navarro
I really don't care about oil consumption either. My 2006 VW GTI used a quart of oil every 700 miles since it was new running Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40. Now with 140k miles on it with DT40 it finally only burns a quart in about 3k miles. Still on the original cats with no issues :-)
Hey, out of curiosity has LN been having any issues acquiring Driven oils and specifically DI40? It says unavailable on Driven's website now and many of the places that sell it actually ship it direct from Driven. I ordered another 5 quarts for my grocery-getter Audi Q5 2.0T from a large well known distributor last week and it took them almost an entire week just to get it -- I was surprised. I am sitting on a ton of this oil so not worried but if there are supply issues it could be a pain for someone that wants to do an oil change like my father who just buys as he goes (I have in fact told my father to run this oil). I tried calling over to Driven this morning since they opened to get their take an for the entire morning no one answers the phone. Maybe I have been working on a trading desk too long but I just cannot believe that a business seeking to do business doesn't answer their phones.........all morning.

TYVM as always. You and Jake have made this platform better in so many ways.
Old 03-24-2023, 02:00 PM
  #524  
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My understanding was that Gibbs sold off the Driven brand... Anybody else heard that?
Gibbs was focused on the performance of the oil and just priced accordingly,
I suspect if someone bought that product brand , its all about the e margin not the quality...
Old 03-24-2023, 10:53 PM
  #525  
Bruce In Philly
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2009 C2S 188K miles

I am all for early oil changes, but sub 5K miles? Can we really learn anything from 3 or 4K oil changes? If you do a change at 3K and the metals are high... DUCK!!! I suspect more valuable information is obtained from 5K or greater changes no?

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)


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