Pork2: Back in black - tales of the turbo (DIY heavy)
#46
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ready to sell this one and move on to a new project? Asking for myself..
#47
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not yet! It still has a few wrinkles that need to be worked on. But you know what they say, everyone has a price. PM me if you want to talk.
#49
Rennlist Member
#50
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Starke. I got them from TireRack on clearance for $800. Couldn't pass that up ![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
Definitely heavier that the stock wheels so absolutely not recommended for anyone who is overly concerned with performance. I don't track or drive aggressively, and I like how they look, so they are good enough for me. I had the black/silver ones on my previous 997. Couple other people on RL got them as well.
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
Definitely heavier that the stock wheels so absolutely not recommended for anyone who is overly concerned with performance. I don't track or drive aggressively, and I like how they look, so they are good enough for me. I had the black/silver ones on my previous 997. Couple other people on RL got them as well.
#51
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got my parts shipment in late last week. All OEM or original Porsche parts. Decided not to do any updates to the engine or trans mounts because I am quite happy with how it drives now. We'll see if I can get everything done this weekend.
By the way, free plug for warehouse33. I love ordering from them. Super fast shipping and very reasonable prices. If I order on a Monday, I get everything to my door by Weds or Thurs with standard shipping.
Engine mounts
Transmission mount
Trans pan gasket
Trans filter
Trans plug O-rings
ATF (9L)
Driveshaft flex disc
15 amp fuses (I realized my engine fan does not come on, hopefully just the fuse, read that it is a common issue for the 7.5 amp fuse to blow)
Brake caliper bolts
A few new hex nuts (My earlier inspection revealed a MISSING trans mount nut
)
By the way, free plug for warehouse33. I love ordering from them. Super fast shipping and very reasonable prices. If I order on a Monday, I get everything to my door by Weds or Thurs with standard shipping.
Engine mounts
Transmission mount
Trans pan gasket
Trans filter
Trans plug O-rings
ATF (9L)
Driveshaft flex disc
15 amp fuses (I realized my engine fan does not come on, hopefully just the fuse, read that it is a common issue for the 7.5 amp fuse to blow)
Brake caliper bolts
A few new hex nuts (My earlier inspection revealed a MISSING trans mount nut
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
#52
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If the 7.5A fuse is blowing, it's because the fan is drawing more current than 7.5A and if the circuit was designed for a 7.5A fuse, the fan should probably only really be drawing 5A or less. Doubling the fuse rating in a circuit because the original fuse keeps blowing is a great way to melt wiring, start a fire, and create additional collateral damage to other wires run in the same loom that aren't part of that circuit.
There are only 2 proper choices to correct this.
- one is pretty obvious and that's to buy a new fan. If your fan motor is going bad, it's taking more amperage on initial kick-on and that's why it's blowing the fuse, or the fan motor might be seized and not spinning at all, which would be the same result - blown fuse.
- option 2 is to find a "slow blow" fuse of the same 7.5A rating. If it's the initial load that is spiking and blowing the fuse, but once the fan is running it draws less than 7.5A, then a slow-blow fuse will delay blowing for a second or two which would get you over the initial kick-on load, but still protect the wiring and the circuit with the correct amperage protection.
#53
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Petza, thanks for the comment. I agree that typically the fix is to replace the fuse with the same size one but apparently Porsche changed the spec to a 15amp fuse in their workshop manual.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...n-failure.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...n-failure.html
#54
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Petza, thanks for the comment. I agree that typically the fix is to replace the fuse with the same size one but apparently Porsche changed the spec to a 15amp fuse in their workshop manual.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...n-failure.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...n-failure.html
7.5A Slow blow
10A Slow Blow
15A regular
You just never know if an auto maker weighed the cost of replacing wiring on a model wide recall or supplying all new compartment fans against how many fires might start by upping the fuse amperage to make the complaints go away... This is pretty common risk vs cost analysis that they all do these days.
If the engineers designed the fan and circuit for a specific amperage initially, there was a reason they did it back then.
It's kind of like raising the wheel lug bold torque spec for track use from 96 ft lbs to 118 ft lbs and making it retroactive - what do you think triggered that change - maybe track cars having the wheel bolts loosen under the heat and load of track use? Hmmm, let's just add 12 ft. lbs. and see if that keeps them tight... Simple and potentially relatively low risk solutions to what could be expensive problems.
I'm not saying any of this with any factual knowledge, but you don't get to be the most profitable automobile manufacturer in the world by not cutting a few corners here and there (cough = dieselgate, alternator bearing on the M96/M97) IMS shaft, Cayenne plastic coolant pipes, glued turbo coolant pipes, etc) and not really doing anything about them until sued by a class or forced to my the Gov't.
#55
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great thoughts - really appreciate it. You may have saved my bacon. Here's what I have from the workshop manual... and now I'm a little embarrassed to post it because I took someone else's word for that it was a 15A replacement fuse.
TLDR: Porsche says to replace with a 10A fuse.
Concerns:
Fuse for engine-compartment blower (fuse F1 / relay compartment 6 / relay carrier 2).
Information:
Before programming the DME control unit, the previous 7.5 A fuse for the engine-compartment blower must be replaced with a 10 A fuse.
Reason:
With PIWIS Tester software version 20.000 (or higher), speed setting 1 of the engine-compartment blower is deactivated in the DME programming. This
can result in a higher power consumption when switching on the engine-compartment blower and therefore requires a fuse with a higher current rating
Production Period:
4th December 2006 to 8th February 2007
Action Required:
Insert 10 A fuse on relay carrier 2, relay compartment 6 (in area of rear seat assembly) in slot F1
Work Procedure:
1. Remove rear cover and relay carrier, --> Workshop Manual '979009 Removing and installing relay carrier'.
2. Replace previous 7.5 A fuse with 10 A fuse.
3. Reinstall removed parts
TLDR: Porsche says to replace with a 10A fuse.
Concerns:
Fuse for engine-compartment blower (fuse F1 / relay compartment 6 / relay carrier 2).
Information:
Before programming the DME control unit, the previous 7.5 A fuse for the engine-compartment blower must be replaced with a 10 A fuse.
Reason:
With PIWIS Tester software version 20.000 (or higher), speed setting 1 of the engine-compartment blower is deactivated in the DME programming. This
can result in a higher power consumption when switching on the engine-compartment blower and therefore requires a fuse with a higher current rating
Production Period:
4th December 2006 to 8th February 2007
Action Required:
Insert 10 A fuse on relay carrier 2, relay compartment 6 (in area of rear seat assembly) in slot F1
Work Procedure:
1. Remove rear cover and relay carrier, --> Workshop Manual '979009 Removing and installing relay carrier'.
2. Replace previous 7.5 A fuse with 10 A fuse.
3. Reinstall removed parts
#56
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great thoughts - really appreciate it. You may have saved my bacon. Here's what I have from the workshop manual... and now I'm a little embarrassed to post it because I took someone else's word for that it was a 15A replacement fuse.
TLDR: Porsche says to replace with a 10A fuse.
Concerns:
Fuse for engine-compartment blower (fuse F1 / relay compartment 6 / relay carrier 2).
Information:
Before programming the DME control unit, the previous 7.5 A fuse for the engine-compartment blower must be replaced with a 10 A fuse.
Reason:
With PIWIS Tester software version 20.000 (or higher), speed setting 1 of the engine-compartment blower is deactivated in the DME programming. This
can result in a higher power consumption when switching on the engine-compartment blower and therefore requires a fuse with a higher current rating
Production Period:
4th December 2006 to 8th February 2007
Action Required:
Insert 10 A fuse on relay carrier 2, relay compartment 6 (in area of rear seat assembly) in slot F1
Work Procedure:
1. Remove rear cover and relay carrier, --> Workshop Manual '979009 Removing and installing relay carrier'.
2. Replace previous 7.5 A fuse with 10 A fuse.
3. Reinstall removed parts
TLDR: Porsche says to replace with a 10A fuse.
Concerns:
Fuse for engine-compartment blower (fuse F1 / relay compartment 6 / relay carrier 2).
Information:
Before programming the DME control unit, the previous 7.5 A fuse for the engine-compartment blower must be replaced with a 10 A fuse.
Reason:
With PIWIS Tester software version 20.000 (or higher), speed setting 1 of the engine-compartment blower is deactivated in the DME programming. This
can result in a higher power consumption when switching on the engine-compartment blower and therefore requires a fuse with a higher current rating
Production Period:
4th December 2006 to 8th February 2007
Action Required:
Insert 10 A fuse on relay carrier 2, relay compartment 6 (in area of rear seat assembly) in slot F1
Work Procedure:
1. Remove rear cover and relay carrier, --> Workshop Manual '979009 Removing and installing relay carrier'.
2. Replace previous 7.5 A fuse with 10 A fuse.
3. Reinstall removed parts
Aha, so they used to have the fan start at a slower speed and then ramp up to a faster speed if necessary or each time, which meant less initial current draw, but now that they've updated the DME to start the fan at a faster speed (for some reason), the initial current draw is blowing the 7.5A fuse. Glad you double-checked the actual info as a 15A fuse wouldn't protect a 7.5A circuit very well.
So, a slow-blow 7.5A fuse or a regular 10A fuse should suffice and not be so far out of the original circuit design - I mean the 10A is still 33% higher, but at least it's not 100% higher.
#57
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Saw you have another round of parts in. Looking forward to the writeup.
The following users liked this post:
jayi836 (03-02-2020)
#58
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks! I like that idea. Silver tips... that would provide some nice contrast in the rear.
#59
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Starke. I got them from TireRack on clearance for $800. Couldn't pass that up ![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
Definitely heavier that the stock wheels so absolutely not recommended for anyone who is overly concerned with performance. I don't track or drive aggressively, and I like how they look, so they are good enough for me. I had the black/silver ones on my previous 997. Couple other people on RL got them as well.
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
Definitely heavier that the stock wheels so absolutely not recommended for anyone who is overly concerned with performance. I don't track or drive aggressively, and I like how they look, so they are good enough for me. I had the black/silver ones on my previous 997. Couple other people on RL got them as well.
The setup simply looks awesome
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)