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I've got both rear mounts that showed up yesterday. I don't hear a casual knock, it's a pretty big knock when I go over sharp bumps. Any tips I should follow to truly find the root cause before tearing the struts out? I have Bilstein B8s on H&R springs...
@Mr. Clean - are you sure its the rear struts? What I found was your fronts "knock" on low speed bumps while your rears "rattle" when loaded in a corner. At least that was my experience. And a squeak is typically your lower control arms. Here are some videos on it:
I'm actually starting to hear a squeak from my right rear control arm when I get out of the car sometimes. I preloaded the strut when I torqued everything down but wondering if I tweaked the ball joint when doing this job somehow.
I'm halfway through the first video, but the sound and his reaction sound like my problem. It just REALLY doesn't sound like it's coming from the front. I'm in a couple meetings now but look forward to watching the 2nd half! Thanks!
Thanks to the pioneering work of TheBruce I'm embarking on my first suspension project - installation of H&R lowering springs. My plan is to start tonight with removal of the wheels, brake calipers, brake rotors and all cladding in order to clean the workspace in preparation for tomorrow's strut removal. Having read the updated guide, stockpiled the necessary tools (and malted beverages), I feel like I'm ready to tackle the task of eliminating the 4x4 stance of my base Carrera 4. I plan to post photos and any findings that might be beneficial to the community once I get things underway. If Petza914 or any of the other esteemed 997 Rennlisters care to chime in with any advice or do/don't I'm all ears. I wouldn't be confident enough to dive in without the hard work the 997 community has documented before me. Thanks to all!
How did you torque the big nut that threads into the top of the strut and secures it to the upper strut bearing? I know the shaft would spin. I'm about to install some Ohlins, which have a flat spot ground on each side of the threaded shaft, which allows you to grab it with a wrench to keep it from turning, but I don't see how to do that with a socket on that nut. I could always just use my air ratchet to zip it on but I hate not torquing things to proper spec.
I think this is the shock rod to top mount torque.
@TheBruce So I went outside, the front struts do not budge in their mounts. So I got in the frunk and bounced up and down in it with my wife on a crawler at the rear. It's defnitely coming from the drivers side rear. It's a clunk-rattle sound if that makes sense.
@TheMurse I would follow this thread, and TheBruce's other thread on shock/strut replacement. I'd also recommend replace all the mounts while you have them out!
@Wayne Smith we gotta drive soon! I probably put 200 miles on my car in 4 months...
With limited trips and miles these cars are becoming appliances.
Yesterday you missed a good run up the 1 and across the 20 followed by some special roads beyond. I felt the need for the third radiator again as oil temps reached 245F 8(
I recently noticed the clunking on or around the rear suspension. I figure with the car being 15 years old and 72k miles I probably need a full suspension refresh but if it turns out I just need to replace the strut mounts I can hold off on the entire suspension refresh until early to mid 2021. Thanks
Got one side done and it definitely helped. There’s a huge difference In the Bushing and cap fit between the old and new mounts.
That said, man it is hard to work with the springs. I have Bilstein B8s and H&R springs and it take a lot of compression to get them on and off. And you can only put the compressors in a couple spots as they won’t fit between the coils on the top part of the spring. Might try the zip tie trick with the compressors next. That was the longest part, taking the old mount off and putting the new one on. Doing passenger side next weekend!
Last edited by Mr. Clean; 10-20-2020 at 10:36 AM.
Reason: Spelling
I got the other side done last night and it's a night and day difference. I posted a pic below of the passenger side old vs new. The driver side was worse! @TheBruce If it's not already done, I think it needs the original post on this and your strut/spring replacement should include the need to replace these in the first post! I've also found that the OEM Tools 27036 strut spring compressor works way better than the other types/brands. ALSO, DO NOT HAMMER OUT YOUR BALL JOINT. RENT A BALL JOINT PRESS FROM YOUR LOCAL AUTO STORE. The advice to do so in some of the other threads is absolute insanity. The bolt is not strong enough to take blows from a hammer. Don't ask how I know.
My list of tools for people to use to avoid my mistakes:
Socket set (duh) (also, I've had a Metrinch set for, oh man, 25 years probably? Never had to buy anything else until I owned a Porsche and even then, it's just the male and female Torx sockets)
Box wrenches (from said Metrinch set )
Torque wrench
Male torx sockets
Electric ratchet
Impact wrench (not recommended to use on the strut nut)
OEM 27036 Spring compressors
Ball joint separator (the press kind, not a pickle fork)
Rubber mallet (only used to free the spring compressors)
Gloves
Floor jack
Jack stand
eye protection
Great comparison picture. I still need to do mine, but am trying to decide to replace with OEM or with Tarett monball top mounts like I have in the front, which is why I haven't done it yet. I'll probably go the Tarett way since the rear top mounts are the only bit of OEM suspension left on the car and the only piece I'm having an issue with (clunk) - go figure.
I had replaced stock with Bilstein B8s and H&R springs, a spring compressor was definitely needed. You may be able to do a stock job without, but they basically rent for free so having them there just in case is just good planning I think.
10-16-2020, 02:39 PM
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