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"Funny thing is if they just sold the foam bushing this project would only cost $5. I could have swapped out the bushing into the old mount because the metal itself is fine."
Amen to this. Hell, charge $40 for new pads. Best I've found for 997.2 is $178 (apiece!) and those aren't even OEM. They're close enough in price to aftermarket pillow ball mounts that I might just spring for those when the time comes.
Did you have to get another alignment after replacing the mounts? I've got almost 80k on my car, and am installing a host of replacement suspension components this coming weekend. With almost $1500 spent on parts already, a further 375-400 for mounts has me tempted to take the risk and let mine go a little longer.
You definitely need to get an alignment if you are changing 4 struts out. I would probably get one if you are just changing some bits out. Its only $100 so no biggie. I used it as cheap insurance to get my indy to check my work...and he immediately found I flipped the cup washer on the front strut mount :-( Rookie move. He was able to do some Jedi move to jack the car up and flip the washer without taking the strut off.Well worth the $100...
You definitely need to get an alignment if you are changing 4 struts out. I would probably get one if you are just changing some bits out. Its only $100 so no biggie. I used it as cheap insurance to get my indy to check my work...and he immediately found I flipped the cup washer on the front strut mount :-( Rookie move. He was able to do some Jedi move to jack the car up and flip the washer without taking the strut off.Well worth the $100...
Did you have any symptoms from having the cup washer up front in the wrong orientation? I have some popping noises up front only when I'm transferring from streets to driveways at an angle... and I wonder if the lowering springs (TechArt) were incorrectly installed by the PO. Some digging suggests an upside down cup washer could cause this problem? Thanks!
Note: you can see the cup washer in the front strut to check if its positioned correctly. Just pop the cap on the front struts and look down into the strut mount.
Note: you can see the cup washer in the front strut to check if its positioned correctly. Just pop the cap on the front struts and look down into the strut mount.
Re popping noises, that I think is common if you are turning sharply at low speed. I've seen some other guys explain the reasoning, but its "normal".
My biggest issue with the lowering springs is our rock driveway. If I park it there for more than an hour rocks get stuck in the soft tires and when I go to move it they scrape on the bottom of the front strut.
Re popping noises, that I think is common if you are turning sharply at low speed. I've seen some other guys explain the reasoning, but its "normal".
My biggest issue with the lowering springs is our rock driveway. If I park it there for more than an hour rocks get stuck in the soft tires and when I go to move it they scrape on the bottom of the front strut.
The first thing you mention is referred to as the Ackerman Effect. It's most often experienced when it's cold out and your backing up at almost full lock, but can happen in tight turning situations at any time where it almost feels like a wheel hops from catfching the forces building up and then releasing.
Re popping noises, that I think is common if you are turning sharply at low speed. I've seen some other guys explain the reasoning, but its "normal".
My biggest issue with the lowering springs is our rock driveway. If I park it there for more than an hour rocks get stuck in the soft tires and when I go to move it they scrape on the bottom of the front strut.
Sorry for the thread hijack, but I appreciate y'alls help.
I am almost certain it is not the Ackerman effect as stated by Pete.
I back out of my driveway and when transferring from driveway to street there is one and sometimes two distinct pops. Typically from passenger wheel, sometimes also from driver's wheel. Then, when I start driving out of our neighborhood which has a few bumpy streets, it "un-pops" with the same noise and after that I don't hear it anymore, which makes me think something is binding somewhere. I thought it could be the sway bar end links so I changed those out and it persists. Only items in the front that aren't brand new are the shocks, which have 30k miles on them and came from a fellow RL member who switched them out for coilovers.
sorry, I was less than clear - meant did you need another align after switching out your rear shock mount. I know I'm going to have to get one after doing the springs/control arms et all.
my concern is that by rolling the dice on the shock mounts, I'll end up needing a second align when they're replaced in the future.
I was reading your post and caught this..."and you can spray some AT-205 on those bushings to refresh them". Are you possibly referring to ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle and using in a spray bottle to maintain bushings, etc. ? from what I have read about this product that what be an awesome hack. also, great write up. I am in the middle of replacing all struts and springs and this will be very helpful. Thanks!
So I took advantage of the Pelican Parts sale on Eibachs and went to work
After reading everyone's post here is what I did
Brakes and rotors were already removed for replacement and powder coating
Loosened the lower control arm
Removed sway bar link
Removed 3 13mm nuts holding the strut to body
With that, I was able to manipulate the strut outside the fender with ease
Put the Eibachs on the floor and stood on them with one leg and zip-tied some compression to them. They were slightly taller than my stock springs.
Reassembled with new bump stops, washers, and Top Hat
(Yes, I know the cup washer is upside down. It was corrected before install)
Once assembled I lifted the strut assembly with the jack until the car lifted ever so slightly to simulate the weight of the car and went back and torqued everything down.
Fronts took less than an hour
For the rears, I removed the sway bar completely
I then removed all three control arms at the wheel carrier
I marked the lower camber setting to get it close when reassembled
Removed the lower strut bolt
Then removed the 3 15mm upper strut mount bolts
And the strut came right out
I then used spring compressors to compress the existing springs and remove the upper strut bolt
The upper bushings were shot so I had to order them. What a crock of .... you cannot replace just the bushing. So $350 later I should have new bushings
New springs are poised and ready for new parts
While I was waiting on parts I rebuilt my new powder coated calipers with a RacingBrake rebuild kit and reinstalled the fronts
Thank you to all that contributed, a little daunting in the beginning, but went very smoothly.
Can't wait to socially distance all this work and drive...
Nice work. I am gearing up to do my front and rear strut mounts on my driver side now.
Where did you get the calipers powder coated?
Nothing fancy just a local shop here in Fl
They powder coat railings, boat parts and now brake calipers
One tip make sure all your holes are taped off. Powder coat is thick and can make it hard to fit your mounting bolts and the pin that hold the shoes in
That said hard as rock and I like the way it turned out
I did silver Porsche stickers and I really like the contrast
the pro is that powder coating is super durable
the con is you need to strip your caliper which most likely means new seals
Eibachs and new brakes 15mm rears and 8mm front spacers look about right to me
I cannot believe how much better the car looks with the Eibachs, (pictures really do not do it justice) added bonus was replacing all the worn suspension parts. My impression is a much more solid ride without any noticeable stiffness. About an 1.5" reduction in the rear and 1" in front.
Next project will be Numeric or Function First Shift kit
When I bought this car somebody correctly stated it is a slippery slope when it comes to modification- I am sliding down that slope pretty damn fast....
05-21-2019, 07:10 PM
