Topgear center muffler bypass for 997.2
#31
Rennlist Member
In reverse order...
1) Sorry, don't have a pic to hand.
2) Yup, the TopGear went in without a hitch, everything lined up. Now at the end of the day, even if you were just taking out and putting back in the stock central muffler, there'll be some degree of grunting/swearing as it's a tight space - but it's not the TopGear part's fault. In fact, because the TopGear bypass overall is less bulky than the stock muffler, it's probably a easier to put in than the stock muffler part.
3) Tip alignment is actually registered to the exit pipe from the side-can. In turn, the side-cans are partially registered to the cats, which are bolted to the headers/engine. That explains why you see sagging tips if your engine mount if failing.
In the diagram below, bracket #9 is connect to the 3-bolt flange coming out of the cats. In turn, bracket #9 lifts the side-can up into position (via bracket #17 connecting to a mounting point on the can). When you're removing the center muffler, you disconnect the two 13-mm nuts holding bracket #9 to the flange on the cat, and then bend the bracket back so you can wiggle the muffler off of the studs on that flange (that's where I had most of my grunting/swearing, I used a pry-bar). Installation is the reverse.
So the picture in post #24 showing the sagging tips is due to bracket #9 being disconnected at that time, hence the side cans sagging down. When you put everything back and bolt bracket #9 to the 3-bolt flange coming out of the cats, that pushes the side-cans (and hence the tips) back up into place.
Karl.
PS: The PSE cans have two exit pipes, so that area is more crowded than the normal setup. That's where the Billy Boat got into trouble...
1) Sorry, don't have a pic to hand.
2) Yup, the TopGear went in without a hitch, everything lined up. Now at the end of the day, even if you were just taking out and putting back in the stock central muffler, there'll be some degree of grunting/swearing as it's a tight space - but it's not the TopGear part's fault. In fact, because the TopGear bypass overall is less bulky than the stock muffler, it's probably a easier to put in than the stock muffler part.
3) Tip alignment is actually registered to the exit pipe from the side-can. In turn, the side-cans are partially registered to the cats, which are bolted to the headers/engine. That explains why you see sagging tips if your engine mount if failing.
In the diagram below, bracket #9 is connect to the 3-bolt flange coming out of the cats. In turn, bracket #9 lifts the side-can up into position (via bracket #17 connecting to a mounting point on the can). When you're removing the center muffler, you disconnect the two 13-mm nuts holding bracket #9 to the flange on the cat, and then bend the bracket back so you can wiggle the muffler off of the studs on that flange (that's where I had most of my grunting/swearing, I used a pry-bar). Installation is the reverse.
So the picture in post #24 showing the sagging tips is due to bracket #9 being disconnected at that time, hence the side cans sagging down. When you put everything back and bolt bracket #9 to the 3-bolt flange coming out of the cats, that pushes the side-cans (and hence the tips) back up into place.
Karl.
PS: The PSE cans have two exit pipes, so that area is more crowded than the normal setup. That's where the Billy Boat got into trouble...
#32
Nordschleife Master
The black covers on the tips only came standard on GTS cars, not on any other PSE 997's. Still an $849 option from Suncoast (yikes). https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGTSTIP.html
#33
Rennlist Member
The black covers on the tips only came standard on GTS cars, not on any other PSE 997's. Still an $849 option from Suncoast (yikes). https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGTSTIP.html
#35
I can notice a difference with the above video now compared to my car with just stock PSE exhaust only.
#36
Rennlist Member
Mine came today three days after ordering. Got the old muffler off but the remaining cat studs are rusted to the cats. No amount of pounding is loosening them. Gonna need a torch.
#37
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
On my 2010, 5 of the 6 studs on the cats were welded studs. There was only one actual bolt & nut. I left the 5 welded studs as-is, and could maneuvered the bypass flanges over them (bending back bracket #9 in the earlier diagram to give clearance).
I also picked up a 13mm halfmoon wrench for the top stud/nut on the cat-flange, makes life a lot easier.
Karl.
**EDIT**: Iceter noted that the studs are in fact pressed in, not welded. See post #40
Last edited by wjk_glynn; 11-24-2018 at 12:49 PM.
#38
Rennlist Member
Just an FYI...
On my 2010, 5 of the 6 studs on the cats were welded studs. There was only one actual bolt & nut. I left the 5 welded studs as-is, and could maneuvered the bypass flanges over them (bending back bracket #9 in the earlier diagram to give clearance).
I also picked up a 13mm halfmoon wrench for the top stud/nut on the cat-flange, makes life a lot easier.
Karl.
On my 2010, 5 of the 6 studs on the cats were welded studs. There was only one actual bolt & nut. I left the 5 welded studs as-is, and could maneuvered the bypass flanges over them (bending back bracket #9 in the earlier diagram to give clearance).
I also picked up a 13mm halfmoon wrench for the top stud/nut on the cat-flange, makes life a lot easier.
Karl.
I can see where that half moon wrench would have been handy. I was able to get a ratchet up there just barely.
#40
Drifting
Just an FYI...
On my 2010, 5 of the 6 studs on the cats were welded studs. There was only one actual bolt & nut. I left the 5 welded studs as-is, and could maneuvered the bypass flanges over them (bending back bracket #9 in the earlier diagram to give clearance).
I also picked up a 13mm halfmoon wrench for the top stud/nut on the cat-flange, makes life a lot easier.
Karl.
On my 2010, 5 of the 6 studs on the cats were welded studs. There was only one actual bolt & nut. I left the 5 welded studs as-is, and could maneuvered the bypass flanges over them (bending back bracket #9 in the earlier diagram to give clearance).
I also picked up a 13mm halfmoon wrench for the top stud/nut on the cat-flange, makes life a lot easier.
Karl.
A Chinese C-clamp isn’t up to the task. A good quality ball joint press will do the trick with a little modification.
#41
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For everyone else’s reference, here’s a pick showing the head of a pressed in stud (left side) and the one and only bolt (right side) on my car. Ignore the little pebble on the right...
Karl.
#43
Rennlist Member
Ahhh... thanks for the correction. For some reason I’d remembered seeing something on one of them that had led me think they were welded, but I’m sure you’re correct as it makes far, far more sense.
For everyone else’s reference, here’s a pick showing the head of a pressed in stud (left side) and the one and only bolt (right side) on my car. Ignore the little pebble on the right...
Karl.
For everyone else’s reference, here’s a pick showing the head of a pressed in stud (left side) and the one and only bolt (right side) on my car. Ignore the little pebble on the right...
Karl.
#44
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Jump to the 2m37s mark in this video to see how he dealt with it using a drilling technique:
Note that Car Fanatic is here on Rennlist, user name dc2000: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...t-reviews.html
Karl.