tomofva

I plan to replace my clutch next month. I have a tech who is going to do the job after hours so I will need to find my own parts. Does anyone have a recomendation? Like Sach vs LUK, a reliable parts source, and should I plan to replace the flywheel also? The current cluch doesn't not shutter, but the peddle squeeks a bit.

Macster

If the engine is stock I'd say the stock clutch is your best choice. You know how it works, how it feels, it is factory so no risk of any surprises regarding fitting.

The FW doesn't have to be replaced out of hand. Even Porsche dealers reuse the FW if it proves to be ok. There is a check for the dual mass feature and an inspection is made of the FW looking for any reason to reject it.

But the FW can be resurfaced and reused. You'll just have to leave this up to your trusted tech.

The squeaking clutch pedal can be pedal linkage that is dry or has a bad bushing and this can be the mechanical linkage or the pedal linkage.

I've never had any clutch issues with my 03 Turbo other than the accumulator and slave cylinder. The clutch is original and has 109K miles on it.

Years ago when I had the RMS done in my Boxster I asked the tech to dab a bit of heavy grease at all the mechanical linkage pivot points unless this was forbidden by the factory. From pics I took of my Turbo's clutch when the car was getting a new tranny there are some points that have some grease already present. One is a needle bearing. So you might want to raise this subject with your tech but really a clutch job should involve the cleaning of these and replacing any worn/damaged parts and proper lubing. In short there is way more to a clutch job than replacing the clutch/pressure plate.

Anyhow, the Turbo clutch linkage has been quiet but the Boxster pedal linkage started making a bit of noise and I mentioned to the tech and when I had the car in for something else he applied some lube -- dry lube? -- and the pedal linkage got quiet. I think it was a dry lube as no one wants oil dripping down on the floor mat, carpet, or on one's pants legs or shoes.

Anyhow the linkage is quiet once again and as I mentioned above the Turbo clutch linkage -- inside or outside -- has never been noisy and has not needed any attention.

32krazy!

if your modded then spend the money and get a erp twin or triple disk. last clutch you will ever buy. if your oem stay oem

tomofva

Wow! and thank for the advice. What miles did you replace the accumulator and slave cyl?

My car is stock X50. I don't drive hard, so I guess I will so with OEM. The tech said he would advise looking at the FW first, while I was just ready to buy one.

JG 996T

UMW Motorsports clutch kit. Plenty of threads with good reviews.

"02996ttx50

sachs 2.5 is somewhere in btw stock and a triple disc or cm setup.. and sachs makes oem stuff. also works well with the stock dm flywheel and/or up to *bolt on* power levels.

"02996ttx50

if i were you? i'd flash the x50 car and replace the clutch with a new stock dm flywheel and the sachs 2.5 i mentioned. it will be MUCH quicker but feel the same eg "stock" until you hit it.

tomofva

Thanks I will check it out. Does this seem right?

Sachs Stage 2.5 Clutch Kit - With Flywheel $2,495.00

And what is involved with the flash?

Kevinmacd

Changed my accumulator and slave at 32,000 miles because of the overflow and pedal issue, clutch still good.

F1CrazyDriver

+1 .... However ask kevin how much truth Sharwerks thread a few months back, stating LWFW cause the intermediate shaft to come lose on the turbos before proceeding forward...

SSST

The squeaking clutch pedal is most likely the helper spring. A little light grease will take care of that.

As for the clutch and flywheel, unless you are planning for some performance upgrades or track the car, the stock clutch is probably the way to go.

The high performance clutches can be harder to drive smoothly in normal conditions (IMO), and the LWFWs tend to rattle at idle with the clutch disengaged. This is normal, but it's something you need to be okay with.

It would be an expensive way to go if you don't like it.

Kevin

One can go with the Sachs 764 890Nm pressure plate with Sachs organic metal sintered clutch disk. Like mentioned, I would replace the dual mass.

Dual mass clutch kit is $1,675.00 Dual Mass is $895.00

tomofva

This price sounds good.

On the labor...I picked this tech because he is a friend of a friend and said it would be Ok for me to hang out in the shop and help out. I'm not looking to save money by asking to help, I just like to work on the car and I don't have a lift. I have pulled many pre-1976 911 motors but never on a newer 911. When we first talked he said would charge me 11 hours at 130 per and just pull the tranny. Today he called and said that he needed to pull motor/trans and it would be 25 hours. I'm not totally against taking both because I could do the plugs and do upgrade the coolant hose connections. However, I am a little concerned that he would not know exactly what path to take without using a labor book to decide. He may be a great tech, but I would perfer that he did so many of these he would not have to do research to decide what path to take. What do you think?

Silberwolfen

I goto Andrew over at Chapman in Reston. Good folks.

32krazy!

no need to pull the engine to drop the trans. find another tech