What did you do to your 996TT today?
#5491
Rennlist Member
Mike Roblin, I'm doing 350mm rotors all the way around but sticking with the stock 996tt rear calipers. So hopefully piston area won't be changed so much by the front GT3 calipers that I feel that I need to upgrade the master cylinder.
What I mean by larger heat sinks is going from the stock 330mm rotors to 350mm rotors...
THP23, you're welcome, happy it helped!
What I mean by larger heat sinks is going from the stock 330mm rotors to 350mm rotors...
THP23, you're welcome, happy it helped!
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THP23 (02-04-2020)
#5492
Rennlist Member
The GT 6-piston caliper actually has a slightly smaller piston area (~2127 sq mm) than the standard 996 front caliper (~2275 sq mm), so your stock master is fine. In fact, it should help your brake bias by moving it back a bit since the factory bias 1.72 and with the 6-piston caliper in front it lowers to 1.6.
#5494
Rennlist Member
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THP23 (02-03-2020)
#5496
The GT 6-piston caliper actually has a slightly smaller piston area (~2127 sq mm) than the standard 996 front caliper (~2275 sq mm), so your stock master is fine. In fact, it should help your brake bias by moving it back a bit since the factory bias 1.72 and with the 6-piston caliper in front it lowers to 1.6.
996TT four piston front brakes have virtually identical piston area as the 996GT six piston calipers. 996GT3 is actually 0.6% larger if you wanna split hairs. Rear calipers are the same size on both...
#5498
I’m sure. It’s 36/44 and 28/32/38. The 380 calipers I’m running are 28/30/32. Porsche finally got the bias right by using those along with the larger rears on the 997GT cars to significantly shift the bias to the rear.
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03EvoIII (02-04-2020)
#5502
Burning Brakes
60,000 mile service - including plugs, upgraded coils, new O-rings & brackets for the valve lift solenoids, air filter, fuel filter, oil & filter. Oddly, after putting in 9 quarts, the electronic measurement is in the middle of the acceptable range. No problem fitting the coil next to the dreaded pipe, and I used the Pelican method of handling the shield interference, but I also ground the bold head down a bit, as well as using a fat metric washer on the one shield bolt. Air gap verified, no contact.
Temporary mod for blowing out the spark plug holes.
No fitment issues.
Hex head bolt ground down a bit.
Temporary mod for blowing out the spark plug holes.
No fitment issues.
Hex head bolt ground down a bit.
Last edited by T Kono; 02-09-2020 at 10:54 AM.
#5504
Burning Brakes
To shorten the bolt head height. My heat shield was contacting the bolt head AND I wanted to use as thin a washer as possible between the shield and the mounting boss you see right next to the ground-down bolt. I did not want to attempt re-shaping the shield. Not sure you can even get those shields out of there.
#5505
Rennlist Member
To shorten the bolt head height. My heat shield was contacting the bolt head AND I wanted to use as thin a washer as possible between the shield and the mounting boss you see right next to the ground-down bolt. I did not want to attempt re-shaping the shield. Not sure you can even get those shields out of there.
The picture below shows a variety of styles, left to right:
- Small head flange bolt. What I used on my coil to get the extra clearance, similar to 'grinding' a larger bolt. Typicially uses one size smaller socket than a full size head as well.
- Regular head flange bolt.
- E-Torx flange bolt, what comes with the coil packs (LARGE head!)
- Allen head bolt, just for comparison.
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Carlo_Carrera (02-09-2020)