jayzbird

Yeah, that’s why I went with the Sony. There may be better options now with wireless carplay. See my original post for the final step of the Porsche sticker from Norway to put a bow on it

hotchalupa

Looks great! Total factory-issue look.

docwyte

All the alternator whine comes from the adapter box. I had a Seicane box and it whined like crazy. It also stopped working after about 5 minutes of being on. I got a refund for it (luckily) and picked another MOST adapter box off Ali Express and it works great and has no whine. So if you have noise, you don't really need a filter, you just need a properly working MOST adapter box.

And no, there isn't one made that lets you retain the fader control.

I like my Sony, it looks nice but at this point I'd buy one with wireless Apple CarPlay and an XM module.

hotchalupa

Definitely a bad mark on the MOST adapter (lack of internal filtering/isolation from its 12V circuitry).

All of this talk of no aftermarket converters that support front/back channel balance got me thinking of something...

The MOST network is a ring of sorts, which is why removing modules requires fiber optic termination loop plugs...

What if the CDR23 were to be left on the bus, and with 12v, but nothing else... With AUX enabled and the HUR L/R outputs spliced into the CDR23's AUX input. Wouldn't the CDR23 then...theoretically...work as our MOST interface + downstream BAL/FAD (and..if so desired...equalizer) for the HUR?

And...At the wonderful price of...free...!

hotchalupa

I just ordered 2 sets of these (to make it worth Bergvill F/X's while to ship for free...I can't believe they ship for free from all the way yonder!), and have been acquiring many of the pieces to this puzzle... As I mentioned in a prior post, I have an idea/theory on the use of the CDR23 as the MOST interface+4 channel balancer, so I will chronicle my own install in a new post...for better or worse! I will reference your post for the bulk of the installation highlights as I don't think I could do any better...and will focus my post on the differing steps...up until I succeed or admit defeat and revert to the conventional method highlighted here.

One decision to make is where to relocate the CDR23 unit... Either forfeit any storage cubby under the HUR and have it reside above the HVAC controls... Or relocate elsewhere (CDC replacement?) and only access when FADER controls are needed.

EDIT: Found this on the Becker Auto Sound website, which got me thinking of an additional step:
"Porsche Radios 2003 - 2008 CDR24 / CDR23 / PCM 2 - Radios from this time period were not manufactured with a simple rear-panel connection for aux. These radios will need to be removed and shipped to us for a “hard-wired” modification. There are 2 different modification options either a hardwired AUX or Bluetooth streaming. Due to limitations in the audio circuit, Input is processed in Mono. All speakers are active. There will be no stereo separation. If you have a "dummy" switch located around the radios surrounding trim, we can mount the AUX jack in that switch. Your switch needs to be sent with the radio. Please tape the switch to the radio so it is not lost."

The Denison style modules that tap into the CDC interface (there's one by "MR12VOLT" sold for around $150 on Amazon - see: ) do have AUX input that leverages the stereo processing of the MOST-based Becker units via the CDC module. This increases the cost of the project, but the main goal is to retain fader controls...saving money, if any, would be a secondary bonus. Basically, this has shifted from connecting the HUR->L/R analog AUX input on CDR23 to HUR->L/R analog AUX on CDC hijack module.

We shall see...

Cheers!
Eddie

docwyte

I just don't see the point. You're going to a ton of extra effort for fader control in a car that's tiny. If fader control is that important then you should really be ripping out all the stock Bose stuff and replacing it with audio gear that's going to sound better all around AND have fader control.

hotchalupa

You're absolutely right. Even if keeping the Bose amp, as long as it retains the last set fader setting from the Becker unit, It's not something that needs to be messed with often in a car this small.

hotchalupa

Quick update on my extended adventures...

I have received all the bits necessary to do my install. I'll be doing basically the same thing as jayzbird, so I'm likely not going to do a thorough account of the process, as that would be redundant. However, I did go, at least initially, a slightly different route...

I received 2 different trim install kits:
- The Metra kit that seems to be the most common go-to (and the one used in this post by the OP)
- A Scosche kit

The reason I ordered both is that the Metra kit will only work if you do some cutting/trimming of the factory frame. I can confirm that this is the case whether you have the HVAC/CDR23 or the PCM2 optioned. The latter, although it provides a "truish" double-din trim, is still smaller than the Metra's full plastic enclosure the double-din HUR is meant to go into. What makes it extend are these structural guides on either side of the outer walls of the trim. You simply cannot slide this kit into any factory trim frame!

The Scosche kit, on the other hand, is meant to slide into the factory PCM2 enclosure. It essentially replaces the innards with its own metal cage, and uses locking "rabbit ears" you attach to the HUR in order to secure it in place. The front face plate trim on the Scosche kit is also a separate plastic piece (vs the Metra, which is an entire single plastic enclosure/outer face trim unit). It is fully matte black plastic vs the Metra's somewhat "rubberized" finish. I honestly like the Metra better, but I can see it getting all sorts of unsightly scuffs over time.

My car was optioned with the HVAC/CDR23 vs the PCM2. However, I received a PCM2 trim from an 04 996tt being parted out on eBay. So, my first attempt is using the Scosche kit in order to avoid any permanent changes to either OEM trim.

The HUR I'm using is the XAV-AX210SXM, which is very similar to the unit jazybird installed, but I needed Android Auto support. As a bonus, it has a CD/DVD player...not that it will get much use. The volume **** and matte finish attracted me to it vs equivalent offerings from Pioneer/Kenwood/Alpine/etc...

Now, this is where things get a bit...annoying...and the main purpose of my post (to serve as a heads up...) The Scosche and Metra kits differ in their final position of the HUR. In the Metra kit, the HUR is fairly forward and almost flush with the outside face trim. in the Scosche kit, not so much... The HUR ends up somewhat recessed. Now, this doesn't look bad...but...it presents a problem with the aforementioned Sony HU's because their volume ****, the one redeeming quality, is right on the left edge. That means that, if recessed into the face trim, you only have about 160 ~ 170 degrees of surface area on the top/right/bottom of the ****, which makes rotation a bit of a task.

For this reason, I may end up switching over to the Metra kit, after all.. I'm going to install things with the Scosche kit and see how bad it really is to control the **** once the system is functional. I'll give it a day.

I'll take pictures once it is installed in the car with the Scosche kit to show you the difference vs jayzbird's install with the Metra. I'll report on the usability. I don't believe in synthetic happiness, so if something annoys me and there's an option, I change it. So, you'll find out fairly quick if it was good or no good.

Here's a link to the Scosche product page for this kit:

https://www.scosche.com/1999-2004-po...stallation-kit

Funny thing... In every single one of their product marketing pictures, the kit is upside-down and the metal cage installed incorrectly (the metal bracing should be facing forward... This is for 2 reasons: 1. The enclosure is installed over the HU * first * and then slid into the opening..so the side braces will stop when they hit the sides of the inner OEM trim...and 2. Those 2 square openings halfway down the sides of the cage being used for the "locking" rabbit ears installed toward the front of the HU. The kit comes with instructions that make IKEA instructions seem like Bentley manuals. It's not overly complicated, but some of the instructions (or lack there of) steer you in the wrong direction.

Hope this helps anyone else considering to do this!

Eddie

s65e90

Sounds like a ton of work for something easy(ish). I ditched the MOST, using a Metra surround, Pioneer AVIC (forget which one), w/ Apply Carplay/Android Auto, replaced all the door speakers, rear speakers. (fader works). Using sub in stock BOSE box and large amp to power sub w/ smaller amp for surround speakers. Really sounds amazing!

lconn

I had that setup and I was pretty happy with it. It was a much better and cleaner installation and sounds great. That head unit looks great in there. I would replace the speakers next, that will also help a bunch sometimes. The only disadvantage was it dropped to stereo but it still sounded great.
My fix for that was I installed a JBL MS-8 which takes a stereo input, listens to the background sounds and then creates a surround sound system out of just stereo. It is an upgraded universal version of the Harman-Kardon Logic7 im my old BMW 335i. I'd sit in the car in the garage just to listen. That was the most awesome factory stereo I've had in a car. The MS-8 automatically tunes itself to the speakers and interior. They quit making them a few years ago so you have to look on EBAY for a used one, I paid $200 for one. I have an iPad Mini 2 w/GPS/LTE, Pioneer DEH-80PRS (though the HU is less important in this setup, you use none of the features), replaced the speakers, added a 1600w Sony amp (not required, the MS-8 has an 8 channel amp and 32 graphic equalizer) and (2) JBL BassPro SL 8" powered subs that fit perfectly in the rear floor. I wired in quick disconnects for the subs so I can pull both in about 60 sec. None of this would change your current setup. It is AWESOME and it is still great with top down. I'm a turn it up until it distorts, then one notch back. Music is very important to me, I just turn it off when I want to hear the intercoolers and SpeedTech exhaust.
Next stereo I am going to look again at HUs like yours.

hotchalupa

If you worry about the absolute best audio quality, replacing the factory amp and speakers is your only option. Otherwise, I don't see what the OP or myself are doing as being any more complicated. If anything, it is much simpler as we're not replacing anything beyond what's on the audio console (and relocating the HVAC controls is a requirement, regardless which path you take).

The 911 cabin is much too small for this to matter much...and, at least in my case, I much prefer to listen to my engine over the audio system.

The HUR project for me focuses around having access to maps for traffic data (we have horrible traffic in the Seattle area..) and it is nice not having the phone hanging off a mount, shaking around all over the place. I do have a Galaxy Note series phone, so I imagine those with weenie phones don't have as big of an issue with theirs...

hotchalupa

As an update, I've completed this install. I ended up switching the Scosche installation kit with the Metra that I had in hand. The Metra looks the best of the two, and the HU face sits flush, with the **** sticking out as it should.

Also, both of these kits are made for 996.1 cars, so the top edge of the trim around the radio has a slight outward curve. They do not sit 100% flush with the cupholder tray. Their center sticks out a bit. The Metro looks ok...the Scosche looked awful. If you're going to install this on a 996.2, don't even bother with the latter.

I did not use the same exact MOST converter. I used an unassuming no-name labeled "Designed in Germany, built in China" or some such. I didn't have to add a power line noise filter and it works fine. I didn't connect the HU or converter negative wires onto chassis, I tleveraged earth from the existing HU harness and the one from the Telephone molex. In fact, my entire MOST converter uses the earth, ACC, and constant from that molex, and I spliced into that same ACC line for the HU. No alternator noise so far.

I created an intermediate harness using spade connectors to tap into that molex connector. If I end up needing filtering it'll make the addition easier.

The two most difficult parts were getting the damned horseshoe trim off without breaking it or damaging the leather surrounding it, and routing the HVAC controls wiring harness to their new location. Gloves aren't an option for a few of these tasks because of how tight things are in there. Bloody knuckles means you're on the right track.

One last thing. I set my volume to 25, Fader rear-biased to 3, and bass/treble to 7/9 prior to removing my Becker unit. At the very least, the volume might matter. It doesn't mean your new HU will be blasting that loud the moment you switch it on... it's just the max the amp will play. In theory, anyway.

hotchalupa

I wanted to add an update as a form of addendum to anyone doing this on a 2003+ car... It might be applicable to earlier cars, but since the OP and I both have MOST systems, I can't guarantee the factory harness will map the same on pre-03 cars.

The wiring changes to the Metra harness outlined in the original post are not entirely functional. The orange wire location meant for illumination by the OP is actually the Reverse signal wire meant for PCM backup camera functionality. I replaced the orange wire with a gray one (all I had on hand) in order to make it less related to power and mated it to the "Reverse In" on my Sony HU.



To actually make illumination functionality work (only used for auto Dimmer function on the Sony HU), I tapped into the illumination terminal from the cigarette lighter plug... It is the top-most terminal wire on the plug (this plug can only go in one way so orientation can't be mistaken). Oddly enough, when the headlights switch is in the parking lights or headlights on position, it provides just a tad over 10V... not 12V or even 5V/12V like in some systems. I even tried adjusting the dimmer dial on my instrument cluster and saw no variance in my multimeter. Any voltage above 0V sent to the Sony HU illumination wire will trigger the Auto Dimmer functionality, so it won't matter much and works as intended as soon as you turn the headlights switch to any position other than off.

Here's a picture I took of the terminal in question while I was testing it:



The two above changes should give you working Reverse signaling as well as auto dimming. Hope that was helpful and added some additional value to the excellent original walkthrough of the HU replacement process!

jayzbird

Nice work figuring that out! Yes, the auto illumination dimming with lights on did not work as I had originally wired it. I appended your info to the original post so the info is all in one place (credit given of course ).

Cheers, Jay

hotchalupa

The one thing missing from the walkthrough is a disclaimer stating: "If your fingers or knuckles don't bleed...you must've missed a step!"