new car coolant leak
#1
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Hi all. My name is Dave. I have asked a few questions regarding the purchase of a Turbo here and finally took the leap. All was well, purchased 2002 with 37k miles. Absolutely no problems until today. After a quick drive I noticed a leak ,antifreeze, that seems to be from the aluminum pipe that crosses under and runs side to side. Looks to be labeled water pipe? in diagrams. No anti freeze above but steady drip from this pipe about center. Looks like small dimple in pipe as maybe something kicked up and hit it. Could I jb weld this? Thanks for any advice .. Not really driveable at this point.
#4
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owners have been successfully using jb weld as a coolant line preventive for years. perhaps not the "best" solution, but then porsche ( as noted ) only used "adhesive" as well.
first thing obviously is identifying the source of the leak. would suck to have just bought the car to discover leaking coolant lines as that is "fairly" labor intensive and offers a few options on repairs. pinning/welding or jb weld. sorry to hear..good luck
first thing obviously is identifying the source of the leak. would suck to have just bought the car to discover leaking coolant lines as that is "fairly" labor intensive and offers a few options on repairs. pinning/welding or jb weld. sorry to hear..good luck
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#8
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Thank you for the replies. The JB weld question was asked because the leak looks like a small spot in the middle of the cast? aluminum pipe at the rear of the engine. It drips more after warming up. I am putting it up on a lift tomorrow to get a better look. I'll get pictures if I can.
#11
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It drips a little when warm.. Does anyone think this could be repaired on car? Or is it something I can do? Fairly comfortable working on my cars but, first porsche. I'm used to old school V8 s. Is this an expensive repair for Indy shop? Looking for assistance in Rhode Island. Thank you to all who have replied.
#12
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Theoretically that crack could be ground out and welded on the car. it would be risky as it would be hard to get it clean and that is critical to a good aluminum weld.
If it was on my car i might try: Empty the cooling system. Clean the crack area well with brake clean. Then put the cooling system under a slight vacuum. Clean the crack again. Heat it up to about 80 F. Clean the crack again. Apply JB weld while maintaining vacuum and keeping it at about 80 F. Make sure there is a good covering until it hardens. Janky? Yes. But i bet it would work for the life of the car or until it gets hit again. Key here is that failure of this method equals a coolant drip, not catastrophic failure.
If it was on my car i might try: Empty the cooling system. Clean the crack area well with brake clean. Then put the cooling system under a slight vacuum. Clean the crack again. Heat it up to about 80 F. Clean the crack again. Apply JB weld while maintaining vacuum and keeping it at about 80 F. Make sure there is a good covering until it hardens. Janky? Yes. But i bet it would work for the life of the car or until it gets hit again. Key here is that failure of this method equals a coolant drip, not catastrophic failure.
#13
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This happened recently to a Rennlister>>similar failure=waterpump console crack
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...pipe-leak.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...pipe-leak.html
#14
Drifting
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I would not weld this piece. Parts that have casting like yours have a tendency to crack in other places once they are heated and compromised. A big hell no on JBweld! That crack may continue to grow with heat and vibration cycles. A new casting is about $1070 (on sale), 996-106-002-70 used $700.
Get it done right the first time!
Get it done right the first time!
#15
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JB weld definitely won’t help with that crack, and welding it would require removal and finding the end of the stress crack and at the minimum drilling relief holes and welding. Sounds like the long cast part expands and contracts mich more than the parts it atttaches to.