^ dont look at bmi. if u are in your ideal BMI, it really just means you have no muscle at all,
martin, u seen me
my BMI is in the obese category
my doctor couldn't stop laughing.

 

If Mooty is "Obese" then I need to get a job in a side show as a "Porker". I am 6'2", Godzilla sized "thunder" thighs and calfs, weigh 222 and I am clinically obese, BMI of 29.3, but not morbidly obese, now that's encouraging. I would have to get to about 185 to get to a "normal" (Non-Obese) BMI of 24.9. Last time I weighed I85 was senior year of college, not a good college, but college. The chart contained within the URL referred to below, tells me if I cut my calories from present weight maintenance of 3,036 cals per day, down to 1,103 cals per day, I could get to 185 in 80 days from today's date, 5/31/18, around mid-August.

I will have to admit, having recently dropped from 252, that losing 30 Lbs was a lot cheaper than adding CF parts, light weight wheels and Titanium lug nuts. The "secret?" Just consume more calories than you take in. Check out www.supertracker.gov/bwp/index.html It's a great web site that shows you how to calculate your present BMI, and lets you see what it will take re. reduced calories to get to their definition of an ideal body weight and BMI. The web site assumes adding 7,000 calories over your present intake, you'll gain a pound, and cutting out the same # you'll lose a lb. Previous conventional wisdom used 3,500 cals a lb. That works in the laboratory, but not in the real world.

When you look at the cost to go from a set of stock 6GT3 wheels, weighing about 110 lbs front and rear, to a set of 3 piece BBS E88 wheels weighing about 80 Lbs a set, a delta of 30 Lbs, you'll be paying over $4,000 to save this weight. Much cheaper to diet off 30 lbs....the biggest bang for the buck is to go ahead and buy the BBS wheels as a reward for losing 30 lbs, now you have saved 60 lbs, reduced the car's C.G. somewhat with a leaner driver and lower weight wheels that spin up faster and stop quicker.

Lastly, when the Porsche Owners Club, a CA Racing Club, calculates a driver's weight, they use 180 lbs. Hmmm, what are they saying here to us chunky types?

 

 

Voltphreaks has worked very well for us on all customers' cars.

 

Don't mean to be a jerk, but I don't really see the point here. If you ware doing this to get a 'faster' car, then spend some money with a proper driving coach, OTOH, if you just want a light car...

Ray

 

you're making assumptions that we haven't already gone the coaching route :-) ...though I would agree most haven't.

I enjoy constantly tinkering with my car...but honestly I think I've added more weight than I've removed in the last couple of years and just added the carbon hood to offset the rest of the added weight.

 

Hey Andy,

I am not really making that assumption, and I agree that most have not taken advantage of coaching. Perhaps I am jealous of those folks whose cars are stable enough to just tinker around, I, for one, want the tinkering to stop so I can drive it :-) So if this is just for the challenge, I could see that.

Ray

 

Ha..., if it makes you feel any better, mine is on a lift right now waiting on me to have the time to pull the transmission out to figure out what I broke at my last track day!!! Hope yours comes back together soon and is better than ever

 

Wow, I hope it is nothing big, we can take this offline, but I have rebuilt my tranny 2x and if you have any questions just ask.Currently am knee deep in rebuilding the motor.

 

I have had good luck with Lithium Pro batteries and have used them in a few customer cars.

In my car I moved the battery from where it is, to my trunk floor and then reduced it to a 5 lbs battery.

Like Andy, I like to tinker. This change definitely made the car go better and handle/point better, no question about it.