When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I would also love to know the brand/model of your steam cleaner!
As for the unbalanced feeling, definitely feel it at higher speeds without the cup lip, and I don’t even have the rs wing (just the stock blade with the shims that increase the angle and downforce of the wing). I’m guessing with the rs wing and a non-cup front lip, the “wiggly” feeling at speed would be even more pronounced. If you are feeling instability at lower speeds, I would bet that you are due for an LSD rebuild. The stock unit does not last long and causes instability, especially upon hard braking.
One recommendation I just noticed. You need a cup front lip to balance the extra downforce of the rear rs wing. Should help stabilize things ALOT! They are NLA from porsche but there is a vendor currently working up the molds for a reproduction unit.
I just managed to get on in the UK from a guy who had one in his garage!,
While the front headlights are out for car the detail, I decided to proactively replace the 16 year old Xenon bulbs in each headlight. I believe our cars came with 4300K bulbs from the factory and I decided replaced them with 5000K bulbs. Since they were out on my work top, I hooked up a 12V source to Pin #11 and ground to Pin #12 after asking here on RL and then confirming with the wiring diagram I found in the PIWIS.
Frankly, there wasn’t much of a difference — or at least not one that I could see staring into bright lights. Maybe it will be more noticeable from the other side, but that will have to wait until the car is back together.
Right before I tackled the exterior, I took stock of the interior making note of any pieces that were worn or damaged (sills, *****, controls, etc.) so I could make a large-ish order knowing the wait time would be significant given some of the parts would need to come from Germany. Boy was I right… but more on that later.
This car will see plenty of mountain roads but not track time, so I removed the roll bar, 6 point harnesses, and the fire extinguisher. Everything was sold to RL’ers. The Euro GT3 seats will go back in, they are fantastic seats.
I knew the rear seat well carpet had a hole put in each side for the tequipment roll bar to bolt into, so I had already proactively ordered a new one (which of course had to ship from Germany).
From the few install videos I watched, I knew that the lower sill bracket under the carpet would have been modified to get the lower leg of the roll bar to bolt in correctly. I had assumed when the roll bar was installed that the carpet was pulled back and the bracket neatly trimmed — nope. It seems the installer went with the “crush it” technique, which caused the sharp broken plastic to cut the floor carpet. Cool 😑. Had I caught that initially, I would have ordered a new floor carpet.
While I was at the salvage yard picking up mirror caps, I also had them pull unmodified sill brackets ($50 for the pair vs. $420 new!) I failed to catch at the time that the brackets for a Cabriolet are shorter, which forced another trip back to the salvage yard to swap them for the right brackets. Hopefully, that will help someone else in the future.
‘Itching to get some of these projects done between Christmas and New Year, I had the Parts Dept. split my order into 2 and ship what they had to me, which included the rear seat well carpet (thankfully!). I asked about availability for the floor carpet and was told none are available in the US, and wouldn’t be available from Germany until the end of February at the earliest. Cool 😑. I guess that will have to be a project for later this year.
I got the brackets installed and the carpet back in place, but I know it’s going to bother me that the carpet is cut behind the seat.
Part order 1 (of 2) was delivered yesterday. I removed the center console, so I could remove the seat well carpet.
Curiously, the workshop manual says the shift **** should pull off. I tried. It just wouldn’t pull straight off. I learned long ago, that if something seems too hard on a Porsche that I must be doing it wrong. I lifted up the shifter boot trim to find a welded set screw at the bottom of the carbon fiber shift ****. A 3mm allen socket loosened the set screw, and the **** came straight off. I suspect the set screw is unique to the CF shift ****?
With the console out, I removed the seat well carpet. Though, after watching some roll bar install videos, I discovered that there are supposed to be plastic shanks in the holes under the carpet. @enthusiast , @gt3racerich & @Marv helped me demystify the shank and I ordered a bag of them from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/90221A422/)
With the old carpet out of the car, I compared it to the new carpet. The color is nearly the same (even though it doesn’t look so in the photo), but the new seat well carpet is slightly more “plush”, and fibers are slightly closer together. It may be an age difference, an updated manufacturing process, or both. You can’t notice a difference if you’re more than 3 ft away, but it does make me want to replace the floor carpeting now.
Installed the new seat well carpet and decided to pause here so I can tackle another interior project over the new few days. More to come…