Cool Tool Thread
#1
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I've thought for quite awhile that we should have a thread where we share the different "cool tools" we use for different things. But I am just now getting around to start it. While there are probably 10 I think are worth sharing I will start out with the Longacre Oil Filter Cutter. If you have switch to the spin-on adapter this thing is a must have. There are two left from the Longacre RBC Catalog (outlet) for $42 or you can find them from $55-$70 on the web. Here's a link to the RBC catalog and to Amazon where it's easier to look at. Please post any cool tools you've used and found to be handy to have!
http://www.longacreracing.com/Userfi...BC_catalog.pdf
Longacre 77750 Oil Filter Cutter
http://www.longacreracing.com/Userfi...BC_catalog.pdf
Longacre 77750 Oil Filter Cutter
#2
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I have a similar oil filter cutter, used it when I did an oil change a few weeks ago. Canister is razor sharp, I'm using a screwdriver to move the sheet metal to get the filter out and I slip and my right hand index finger hits the razor sharp edge and cuts the face of the finger. Drove myself to the urgent care center and five stitches later it was all sewed up!
Be careful out there!
Be careful out there!
#3
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Good reminder to wear gloves (and safety glasses)! Glad you're alright.
#4
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I did a thread a while ago on a tool for compressing the variocam assembly so you can remove the cam chains and replace the wear pads and probably the chains too.
Just use a road bicycle quick release skewer it screws straight into the hole made for the factory tool, either use it with a steel tube slotted over with a washer to push against when you close the quick release lever or some guys shortened then re threaded the quick release shaft, note that some variocams are left handed thread so this is the best route in that case, ask the other guys for the perfect measurements I just came up with the crude idea to start with!
Just use a road bicycle quick release skewer it screws straight into the hole made for the factory tool, either use it with a steel tube slotted over with a washer to push against when you close the quick release lever or some guys shortened then re threaded the quick release shaft, note that some variocams are left handed thread so this is the best route in that case, ask the other guys for the perfect measurements I just came up with the crude idea to start with!
#5
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I did a thread a while ago on a tool for compressing the variocam assembly so you can remove the cam chains and replace the wear pads and probably the chains too.
Just use a road bicycle quick release skewer it screws straight into the hole made for the factory tool, either use it with a steel tube slotted over with a washer to push against when you close the quick release lever or some guys shortened then re threaded the quick release shaft, note that some variocams are left handed thread so this is the best route in that case, ask the other guys for the perfect measurements I just came up with the crude idea to start with!
Just use a road bicycle quick release skewer it screws straight into the hole made for the factory tool, either use it with a steel tube slotted over with a washer to push against when you close the quick release lever or some guys shortened then re threaded the quick release shaft, note that some variocams are left handed thread so this is the best route in that case, ask the other guys for the perfect measurements I just came up with the crude idea to start with!
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#6
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I've considered a 'worth their weight in gold' tool thread so this is pretty much the same thing. Going to kick things off with one that is super cheap and has saved me countless hours. I consider it cool because it saves time whenever you inevitably drop a bolt or nut into an area you can't easily reach or see - but it also saves your back picking dropped parts up off the floor.
Craftsman magnetic telescoping pen tool
Craftsman magnetic telescoping pen tool
#7
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#9
Drifting
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The thread is M5 x 0.8 LEFT. I used brass rod + nuts. I threaded the rod myself.
A better material would be bronze . Why not mild steel - because if you strip the threads in the Actuator there is no space for a fix except a wimpy Timsert.
I considered modifying the thread to R.H., Imperial in the Actuator but there is insufficient material to drill out and re-tap to 10-32 RH.
Without this obscure tool you will be unable to do the work. The critical task is compressing or decompressing the Actuator with the camshafts installed. Not a problem on the bench - use G clamps.
So the idea from Noz is great !
Here is a link-is this correct?? It is Titanium but make sure it is LH thread M5 x 0.8
or this & similar:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/304-Stainles...-/111993455009
A better material would be bronze . Why not mild steel - because if you strip the threads in the Actuator there is no space for a fix except a wimpy Timsert.
I considered modifying the thread to R.H., Imperial in the Actuator but there is insufficient material to drill out and re-tap to 10-32 RH.
Without this obscure tool you will be unable to do the work. The critical task is compressing or decompressing the Actuator with the camshafts installed. Not a problem on the bench - use G clamps.
So the idea from Noz is great !
Here is a link-is this correct?? It is Titanium but make sure it is LH thread M5 x 0.8
or this & similar:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/304-Stainles...-/111993455009
I did a thread a while ago on a tool for compressing the variocam assembly so you can remove the cam chains and replace the wear pads and probably the chains too.
Just use a road bicycle quick release skewer it screws straight into the hole made for the factory tool, either use it with a steel tube slotted over with a washer to push against when you close the quick release lever or some guys shortened then re threaded the quick release shaft, note that some variocams are left handed thread so this is the best route in that case, ask the other guys for the perfect measurements I just came up with the crude idea to start with!
Just use a road bicycle quick release skewer it screws straight into the hole made for the factory tool, either use it with a steel tube slotted over with a washer to push against when you close the quick release lever or some guys shortened then re threaded the quick release shaft, note that some variocams are left handed thread so this is the best route in that case, ask the other guys for the perfect measurements I just came up with the crude idea to start with!
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 05-02-2017 at 02:00 PM.
#11
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Wow
#12
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Thanks schnell!
They look right ! I was lucky mine were both normal thread, but the shafts are too long as standard and the quick release mechanism doesn't push against anything to put pressure on the variocam assembly , as I didn't have to re thread them in my case I just slipped a brass tube over the skewer with a washer at the vario end, this allows you to screw the skewer into the vario assembly then as you close the Keven it pushes the tube down compressing the vario tensioner, but if you got left hand thread and you have to do modification it's worth just shortening the skewer then re tapping a left handed thread on, I think this tool will become really popular as I think we are going to see chain tensioners needing attention more and more, they take a real beating!!
They look right ! I was lucky mine were both normal thread, but the shafts are too long as standard and the quick release mechanism doesn't push against anything to put pressure on the variocam assembly , as I didn't have to re thread them in my case I just slipped a brass tube over the skewer with a washer at the vario end, this allows you to screw the skewer into the vario assembly then as you close the Keven it pushes the tube down compressing the vario tensioner, but if you got left hand thread and you have to do modification it's worth just shortening the skewer then re tapping a left handed thread on, I think this tool will become really popular as I think we are going to see chain tensioners needing attention more and more, they take a real beating!!
#13
Drifting
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Agreed, rethreading your bike skewers is probably worth trying.
Until you try to compress/decompress the Actuator in position on the engine with the engine in the car, it is difficult to understand how much (controlled) force is required .
Why did they change to left hand(reverse) thread !?
Until you try to compress/decompress the Actuator in position on the engine with the engine in the car, it is difficult to understand how much (controlled) force is required .
Why did they change to left hand(reverse) thread !?