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Wow that last boxster motor at 34 grand for 01 thought I miss read that number- did I?
My motor is running fine - just think 3.8 wouldn't be a stretch to do. I have tools to in and out motor, my winters are go time for learning and modifying then drive drive drive
I don't think I would ever do a rebuild on an engine that's running fine. That's quite a bit of financial risk to take. A good rebuild costs about $13k to $15k plus labor. Is the delta worth that much money and time?
There's also risks the engine may not turn out well (worst case scenario) then it's a double whammy.
I don't think I would ever do a rebuild on an engine that's running fine. That's quite a bit of financial risk to take. A good rebuild costs about $13k to $15k plus labor. Is the delta worth that much money and time?
There's also risks the engine may not turn out well (worse case scenario) then it's a double whammy.
You moved up your liter from 3.4 to 3.8 ?- and I agree money and time I just can't leave well enough alone need you guys to remind me to relax and just drive it.So far all is good need clutch soon and that's the time to do IMS. I think I can get that done in my garage
Wow that last boxster motor at 34 grand for 01 thought I miss read that number- did I?
My motor is running fine - just think 3.8 wouldn't be a stretch to do. I have tools to in and out motor, my winters are go time for learning and modifying then drive drive drive
I agree with Ahsai, I think if your engine is running fine, it would be of more value to leave it in running condition so you could continue to drive while you build your engine, or to have as a back-up to keep from having down time if a future repair is necessary, or to sell after engine swap to recoupe some (quite a bit actually) of the money spent on built motor. Like the example Schnell showed a rebuildable engine can be had for a little over 2k.
I agree with Ahsai, I think if your engine is running fine, it would be of more value to leave it in running condition so you could continue to drive while you build your engine, or to have as a back-up to keep from having down time if a future repair is necessary, or to sell after engine swap to recoupe some (quite a bit actually) of the money spent on built motor. Like the example Schnell showed a rebuildable engine can be had for a little over 2k.
Ok - I will start stashing coin for a 3.8 swap
Thanks
Put 280 miles on it so far. Got a set of new Continental DW's on it (great deal btw at $750 out the door) and they totally transformed the car! I guess I was driving on 8yrs old flat spot tires before.
Returned 28mpg on pure non-stop freeway drive at around 70mph. Engine feels very strong and smooth. Definitely enjoying the extra torque above 3k rpm. No leaks, no warning lights and no issues. All my Durametric numbers stay practically the same.
Put 280 miles on it so far. Got a set of new Continental DW's on it (great deal btw at $750 out the door) and they totally transformed the car! I guess I was driving on 8yrs old flat spot tires before.
Returned 28mpg on pure non-stop freeway drive at around 70mph. Engine feels very strong and smooth. Definitely enjoying the extra torque above 3k rpm. No leaks, no warning lights and no issues. All my Durametric numbers stay practically the same.
That picture is just SCREAMING let's go and let's go FAST. Nothing better then burning a hole in the night!
Fantastic work - stuck in Midwest jonesing for a drive- its great satisfaction all that hard work is paying off- get really ambitious come with us to Road America for Track time
Thanks guys. This build is for a street car and I'm afraid a lot more is needed if it goes on to the track.
Did the first oil change today. Some metal paste on the mag drain plug and spin on filter wall, picked up by the mag filter. Also cut open the spin on filter (Napa 1348) and found only a few very tiny flakes of metal. No sealant
Nothing scary so that's good news. Switched to DT40. Next oil change is 2,000 miles from now.
The surface area of the filter is like 1/4 of that of the stock filter. I just think that's an interesting contrast.
Looks normal to me.
Drain plug cleaned.
Metal picked up by the mag filter inserts (I use two).
Iron dust picked up from the inside of the oil filter element.
Iron swarf picked up by my pick up tool when inserted into a NEW napa filter. I'll do this every time I put in a new canister filter. Sometimes there's swarf from the threads of the filter.
Um, let's see...new timing chains, new IMS, new exhaust lifters, new scavenge pumps, new main oil pump, new piston rings, new bank 1 exhaust cam sprocket...
Ok, basically any new steel parts that make metal-to-metal contact
Man, the extra torque is addicting! I also noticed the 3.8 sounds better than the 3.6. Deeper and throatier exhaust noise. I know it's useless without a video though.
Thank you Jake and Tony for your reco on the 3.8 . I would have gone with the stock displacement had I not talked to you guys.
A small update...the fuel trims have changed a bit after more miles have been put on the engine. Must be due to parts getting broken in. The RKATs remain more or less similar.
02-08-2017, 10:31 PM
