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Old 01-23-2013, 07:26 PM
  #136  
KrazyK
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Some OEM bearings have clearly failed at 40k, 60k, 100k, etc. Are there enough cars with the retrofit bearing, with enough time and miles, to accurately show that the replacement bearing will be any safer?
Gonzo, I think the experts are admitting that the IMSB is a "wear" item and should be replaced as PM at @30K to 40K if I remember correctly. Thats just the way it goes and we're stuck with if you have 996 and some newer, I think all the way up to 2008? Even Bentley states it is considered a regular maintenance item.
Old 01-23-2013, 07:30 PM
  #137  
KrazyK
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just got back from WalMart with 9 quarts of Mobil 1 OW-40 ($6.97/quart)...for my annual oil change (currently have 65K miles, 100% street only, weekend toy, 5K miles/year max) .
P.S. Been reading a lot of good stuff about EVOO
Krom, just wondering, your area is a warm climate, right? Have you considered 5-40W or paying a little more for the JG street oil?
Old 01-23-2013, 07:43 PM
  #138  
kromdom
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Originally Posted by KrazyK
Krom, just wondering, your area is a warm climate, right? Have you considered 5-40W or paying a little more for the JG street oil?
Been learning a lot of new stuff from this thread and honestly, still on the fence Maybe after I get the UOA results, will look into other options.
(P.S. 2 trucks, 2 bikes, and 3 cars: been lucky to have had zero issues with Mobil 1)
Old 01-23-2013, 07:49 PM
  #139  
alpine003
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Originally Posted by KrazyK
Krom, just wondering, your area is a warm climate, right? Have you considered 5-40W or paying a little more for the JG street oil?
It's funny you mention it because I will be switching to Castrol 5w40 partly due to the fact that I only drive my car in 3 seasons and the fact that it is becoming readily available. Oh and the sales they had for under $5 each didn't hurt either. I captured my old m1 oil for Blackstone analysis just because its been awhile but also as a reference against the Castrol for the future.
Old 01-23-2013, 11:31 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by alpine003
Interesting to note that they also have a specific racing oils made just for racing which does have the elevated and highest ZDDP/Phosphorous content. The chart also backs up another poster's comments on the v-Twin oil as well.
Yes, I've seen info on their racing oil before but the limited lifetime (~500 miles) makes it a tough option for me. What I came away wondering was even though some of these M1 oils have good levels of anti-wear additives, how does their shear stability compare to the data JR presented earlier.
Old 02-01-2013, 12:50 AM
  #141  
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I apologize for digging up this thread. I am going to try the DT40. In looking for a deal I have seen 02406and 02407 referenced after DT40 in the oil description. What is the difference?
Old 02-01-2013, 12:57 AM
  #142  
KrazyK
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Steve, the second number is just the part number for a case instead of 1 quart. I got mine from Summit in a few days. I think it added 20HP!!!!

Just joking but I think the bottom line is that thanks to JR's research, several "experts" have finally recognized or admitted the need for a high zinc content oil for the M96 engine to ensure its longevity. You will "hear" the difference in the engine when you swap and I will be testing mine after a few months or 3K miles.
Old 02-01-2013, 01:19 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by KrazyK
I got mine from Summit in a few days. I think it added 20HP!!!!


Best deal I found was actually Amazon due to the free shipping. $131 for 12pack. Plus I got some Einszett rubber care while I was there. My sunroof rubber seal is cracking.
Old 02-01-2013, 08:52 AM
  #144  
2300cc
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[QUOTE=KrazyK;10188327]Steve, the second number is just the part number for a case instead of 1 quart. I got mine from Summit in a few days. I think it added 20HP!!!!

Did you first run the JG Break in oil before going to DT40?
Old 02-03-2013, 08:44 PM
  #145  
Ahsai
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Due to my high copper and iron level (~20ppm for both in 5k miles oil). I plan to try DT40 also.

Krazy, Jakes, or others, there are two JG break-in oils, 15W-50 and 5w-30. I assume we should use BR 15W-50 for 100 miles before using DT40?

TIA
Old 02-03-2013, 08:59 PM
  #146  
dennis hiip
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Just to be clear here. The preliminary use of the break in oil is to have a more accurate oil analysis. It's not necessary if one doesn't intend to do the OA. Right?

Last edited by dennis hiip; 02-03-2013 at 09:29 PM.
Old 02-03-2013, 09:23 PM
  #147  
Ahsai
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Originally Posted by dennis hiip
Just to be clear here. The preliminary use of the break in oil is to have a more accurate oil analysis. It's not necessary if one doesn't intend to do the UA. Right?
Based on my previous reading, my understanding is the break in oil will remove the detergent that is present in the old oil, which will dilute the ZDDP in the new DT40 oil if not removed. So without flushing, you can't get the full benefit of DT40, at least in the first oil change.
Old 02-03-2013, 10:51 PM
  #148  
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I just order a case (12 qts) of Joe Gibbs DT40 from JoeGibbsOilSales.com this weekend. Cost was $119.88 .and free shipping
Old 02-04-2013, 12:46 PM
  #149  
KrazyK
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Yep, thats the best price I have seen. I hope their giving JR his commission so I dont feel so bad for paying more.
Old 03-23-2013, 10:36 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by kdm
I just order a case (12 qts) of Joe Gibbs DT40 from JoeGibbsOilSales.com this weekend. Cost was $119.88 .and free shipping
Anyone interested in two cases for $200 plus shipping or pickup at Chin Motorsports April 13th-14th event at Sebring?


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