Joe Gibbs DT40?
01-14-2014, 06:50 PM
#211
Intermediate
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Single digits last week in Boston and all is well, oil pressure numbers all the same easy start-up I woudn't worry about cold temps till you get to negative numbers.
01-14-2014, 06:56 PM
#212
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Location: Chicagoland Area
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^I agree. We had 18 below zero last Monday and about 15 below on Tuesday. Didn't see any 911's on the roads. Cayennes. Sure. 
01-14-2014, 07:41 PM
#213
01-14-2014, 08:15 PM
#214
Former Vendor
No, I had them remove my name from the bottle with the new packaging. Trying to keep the phone call volume down here, and that seal on the bottle made everyone want to call and ask 20 questions..
Heck, I don't even sell oil… Unless its in an engine.
Heck, I don't even sell oil… Unless its in an engine.
01-14-2014, 08:32 PM
#215
I've been wondering the same thing. I've read a few different things online, and have not been able to determine when it's too cold for 5W-40. There seems to be some people who say 10* and others who say -10*. I'm a Mobil 1 0W-40 user, but have been contemplating the switch to 5W-40. I've also read that it's not ideal to go back and forth between different oil brands, so I don't think Mobil in the winter and Joe Gibbs in the summer is a good option. I drive all year and it's common to have single digit temps in the winter, but usually only a few days that are negative.
01-14-2014, 08:42 PM
#216
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Yes, Mobil's additive package don't work we'll with Gibb's for users that would want to keep switching back and forth. All the oil never comes out. There is always residual.
Last edited by LexVan; 01-14-2014 at 09:08 PM.
01-14-2014, 09:06 PM
#217
Former Vendor
I would never recommend swapping back and forth between oils just to attain a zero weight oil, or for any other reason. Stick with one system of oil.
When my engines are built they are assembled with Gibbs break in oil and grease, broken in on BR Break in oil, then ran on Gibbs Intermediate oil, then swapped to DT40 on the street and XP9 or XP5 on the track. Hopefully the owner loves the engine enough to keep it this way. Its been years since I used M1 for anything other than a "control" for a comparative evaluation.
We have used DT40 in sub zero temps without issues since 2009, when it wasn't even a product, it was just an OS# from Lubrizol that only we could source. In fact, we just carried out testing of DT40 in Chicago in temperatures of -22 with a -52 wind chill. The engine was started over and over until the battery died, never allowing it to warm up at all. Then charge the battery or swap it out, and do it all over again. Yes, this is pure punishment on the entire car and engine, but thats how we ensure that we don't have issues. Sacrificial engines are just part of the game at our level.
Here's a shot from one of the test vehicles, a Cayenne with a Raby 5.1 big bore engine, when it was -16F.
We put it through hell.
When my engines are built they are assembled with Gibbs break in oil and grease, broken in on BR Break in oil, then ran on Gibbs Intermediate oil, then swapped to DT40 on the street and XP9 or XP5 on the track. Hopefully the owner loves the engine enough to keep it this way. Its been years since I used M1 for anything other than a "control" for a comparative evaluation.
We have used DT40 in sub zero temps without issues since 2009, when it wasn't even a product, it was just an OS# from Lubrizol that only we could source. In fact, we just carried out testing of DT40 in Chicago in temperatures of -22 with a -52 wind chill. The engine was started over and over until the battery died, never allowing it to warm up at all. Then charge the battery or swap it out, and do it all over again. Yes, this is pure punishment on the entire car and engine, but thats how we ensure that we don't have issues. Sacrificial engines are just part of the game at our level.
Here's a shot from one of the test vehicles, a Cayenne with a Raby 5.1 big bore engine, when it was -16F.
We put it through hell.
01-14-2014, 09:33 PM
#218
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pittsburgh PA
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Jake, Thanks for the info and the earlier clarification. So just to be clear, is it imperative that I run the break-in oil though the engine first before the switch to 5W-40, or can i go straight to the 5W-40. Currently running M1 0W40 as that is how I got the car a few months ago.
01-15-2014, 12:34 AM
#220
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Not sure what you mean by fresh.
Assuming it means new and the answer to that would "no". 52K miles previous owner replaced water pump and LNE IMSB(prophylactic)
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Assuming it means new and the answer to that would "no". 52K miles previous owner replaced water pump and LNE IMSB(prophylactic)
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01-15-2014, 12:36 AM
#221
Former Vendor
Ok, just wondered if the engine had been opened up, since you were asking about the break in oil.
Any time we change systems with oils we utilize a purge thats carried out with break in oil. Cross pollination of oils is not favorable.
Any time we change systems with oils we utilize a purge thats carried out with break in oil. Cross pollination of oils is not favorable.
01-15-2014, 09:01 AM
#222
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Jake, thanks for the clarification, so based on that: I do a full oil change with the break in oil, not just additive correct? And how long should it be in until the second change to DT 40?
01-15-2014, 11:11 AM
#225
Former Vendor
Probably not, and it may make it worse. Once a lifter becomes noisy its pretty much a mechanical issue and the lifter crown radius becomes damaged from excess lash. The noise that you hear is excess lash.