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What's the best engine oil 996?

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Old 11-26-2011, 07:06 PM
  #46  
mrohr07
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mobil 1
Old 11-27-2011, 05:40 PM
  #47  
911SLOW
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Originally Posted by aviography
http://www.insideline.com/features/a...ag-racing.html

Definitely not Danica.

Way to go derail an oil thread!

Old 11-27-2011, 07:11 PM
  #48  
Macster
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
Ltusler has the ONLY one of our engines on the street or track that doesn't use our oil and that was my decision. I was impressed with the internals of his engine that had broken and we kept him on that oil after our work was done.. The UOA we have carried out have been impressive for something thats not an application specific oil.

Street cars do matter what oil is dumped into them as we are seeing more and more cam and lifter wear as the new oil formulations have time to make impacts on the engines. In times past we only saw impacts with cam and lifter combinations on vintage flat tappet equipped engines, but not anymore. As oils are modified further to enhance fuel economy and engine cleanliness as well as not to foul O2 sensors and catalytic converters the oils begin to fill more roles than just lubrication.

Corvette owners are now starting to lose camshafts and that was unheard of just last year.
A high performance engine mag (all brands of USA engines covered) -- the name of the mag escapes me since it has been awhile (since I traded in my 06 GTO with its 6.0L V8 and stopped following USA engine news) -- reported that cam/lifter failures come and go and most are the result of crummy lifters and camshaft metalurgy. Teh parts (imported for the most part) are just not very good.

Further, testing found in some cases that air was getting into the oil at high rpm and affecting lifter action from the air in the oil. How the bearings managed to live I do not know.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 11-27-2011, 09:25 PM
  #49  
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For all you additive junkies out there. To be safe start with an SA pure oil and add to it what ever you like. I'd keep the additives at or less than 5% of the whole mix so you don't start destroying the lubricating properties of the base oil. Let us know how well it does in your $20-$60k Porsche motor.
Old 11-28-2011, 07:05 AM
  #50  
Pac996
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Good, I'm in the right area. What oils should I use for this thing.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:02 PM
  #51  
Flat6 Innovations
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Originally Posted by Pac996
Good, I'm in the right area. What oils should I use for this thing.
I use CLP on all my AKs, but just leave the action dry... My Draco has 20,000 rounds fired through it and it has never been cleaned.
Here is what I had out today to spend some time cleaning :-)
Old 11-28-2011, 08:32 PM
  #52  
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I use Lubro Moly.

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...cument&land=US

You can get at your local NAPA.
Old 11-29-2011, 01:43 AM
  #53  
Steve2112
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What's a good oil weight to use in the RI/MA area this time of year for an M96 engine? I'm going to change the oil in about 2 weeks and then store the car most of the winter except for weekend warm-up runs when there is no snow on the ground. Try and keep the tires from flatspotting and keeping the juices flowing whenever the weather permits. I wish I had power in my storage unit for a battery tender.
Old 11-29-2011, 08:57 AM
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No HTwo O
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Originally Posted by Steve2112
What's a good oil weight to use in the RI/MA area this time of year for an M96 engine? I'm going to change the oil in about 2 weeks and then store the car most of the winter except for weekend warm-up runs when there is no snow on the ground. Try and keep the tires from flatspotting and keeping the juices flowing whenever the weather permits. I wish I had power in my storage unit for a battery tender.
I'd say a 5W50 Mobil 1 is good-to-go. Best not to start it during hibernation.
Old 11-29-2011, 12:47 PM
  #55  
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All around warm weather here in South FL, I go with Pentosin 5W40 (full synth) in both cars, DD, no storage, no tender.
Old 11-29-2011, 01:09 PM
  #56  
logray
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Originally Posted by No HTwo O
Best not to start it during hibernation.
Naaaa, I would take her out for a good long drive every now and then. Just don't start it and let it idle for very long or take it out without getting it up to temp.

I've driven mine all year long, in temps down to the teens without ever worrying about it.
Old 11-29-2011, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis hiip
RE zink additive: Thanks guys. I tend to over think this stuff some times. I'll stick with Delo 15W-40 in these old gasers and be content with the zink and phosphorus content. It's been working for a long time. I just started to worry after learning that the formula of this oil is changed. MB= 200k and only has had valve stem seals.
I became curious what Redline would say about using their additive to increase the level of zn and phosphorus so I emailed them. Redline advised against using their additive and that the oil I've been using is adequate.
Old 11-29-2011, 02:48 PM
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Wow,what a great idea,this would be "The" place to ask a oil question ! Surely no one has thought it before !!!!
Old 11-29-2011, 03:32 PM
  #59  
Steve2112
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Originally Posted by No HTwo O
I'd say a 5W50 Mobil 1 is good-to-go. Best not to start it during hibernation.
I had my IMSR as well as other work done @ Flat 6, and Jake mentioned he is not a fan of Mobile 1 oil. I am no oil expert, but I will take his opinion as if he wrote the book on M96 engines (from what I heard this book is actually a work in progress - can't wait for it to be published Jake!)

I'll see what is in stock at the local stores and go from there. Thanks.
Old 11-29-2011, 04:54 PM
  #60  
Topaz330ci
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Imagine a newbie coming here and looking at this thread. They would be confused to ****s! Almost everyone here mentioned a different grade/type of oil!


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