jrgordonsenior

+1! Only the best.....

There are several quality botique motor oils available and on a street car it makes little difference which brand you use as long as it's NOT MOBIL1. Oh and unless you're on frozen tundra use 5-40 not 0-40...

Flat6 Innovations

Ltusler has the ONLY one of our engines on the street or track that doesn't use our oil and that was my decision. I was impressed with the internals of his engine that had broken and we kept him on that oil after our work was done.. The UOA we have carried out have been impressive for something thats not an application specific oil.

Street cars do matter what oil is dumped into them as we are seeing more and more cam and lifter wear as the new oil formulations have time to make impacts on the engines. In times past we only saw impacts with cam and lifter combinations on vintage flat tappet equipped engines, but not anymore. As oils are modified further to enhance fuel economy and engine cleanliness as well as not to foul O2 sensors and catalytic converters the oils begin to fill more roles than just lubrication.

Corvette owners are now starting to lose camshafts and that was unheard of just last year.

One Nut

AMSOIL European formula In all my cars

targa996

I spent a lot of time as a newbie as well looking on these boards (and others) at the oil discussions. For everyday use you can find Mobil 1 at $5-$6/qt when its on sale - (0w40) - and it is widely available.

I've yet to see a good argument as to why that doesn't work well. Porsche specs 15K change interval - many people on the boards do at 5K "as cheap insurance" - so won't argue with that. If you are racing - there maybe other options - but for normal street use - I think M1 with more frequent changes is the way to go .... (i'm going to do oil analysis with my first change and see what Blackstone says)

Chaos

A oil question post ! Brilliant idea !!!

dennis hiip

I just want to stir the pot a little so here goes: Redline makes Engine oil Break-In additive that's concentrated ZDDP and phosphorus. Comes in a 16 oz bottle so you can increase your oil's zn/phosphorus content to your heart's delight. 16oz/10 qts oil= increase of 1104 ppm, 8oz/10qts= increase of 690 ppm. This is not snake oil but the real deal. Use caution. More is not always better and I'm afraid to second guess the manufacture's chemists. I'll just wait for the Joe Gibbs oil in Feb. for my Porsche. On the other hand, I'm seriously considering using a little (4 oz) in my 20 yr old Mercedes and 25 yr old Ford pickup.

911SLOW

I am with Danica on this one..

logray

Yep, definitely with Danica too... Peak motor oil is the best ever.

(wait, am I missing something here errrr uhhhh)

Macster

Why use any additive in your 20 yr old Mercedes or 25 yr old Ford pickup when for 20 and 25 yrs both vehicles' engines appear to not have suffered any from the treatment/oil that you have given them over that time. However you are treating them, whatever oil you are using, whatever you are doing, seems to be working just fine.

As for using an break in additive, AFAIK Porsche does not recognize the need for any additive, at any time.

I can think of another argument against using an additive at break in, especially one that has a high ZDDP content. New engines can use oil and of course this oil ends up flowing with exhaust gases past/over the O2 sensors and on into the converters, where that ZDDP can do its dirty business.

One then uses an additive that not only does not appear to be needed -- so many of these cars have managed to make it through break in just fine sans any additive -- but which also subjects the sensors and converters to exposure Porsche (and other automakers) have recognized as harmful the O2 sensors and converters.

Instead, buy lottery tickets with the money you would have spent on the oil additive. The odds are better you'll recognize something from the ticket purchase compared to the additive purchase/use.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Topaz330ci

I use 5W40 Total Quartz. Very good oil from all the researching I did before I put it in.

Most important thing here is the climate, and the more frequent change intervals.

DreamCarrera

Isn't that Ashley?

I don't think Ashley cares too muck about the oil in her car, after all the engine gets a teardown and rebuild every 4 seconds.

aviography

http://www.insideline.com/features/a...ag-racing.html

Definitely not Danica.

Way to go derail an oil thread!

Flat6 Innovations

According to the API there is never a "best time" to apply an aftermarket oil additive. Doing so impacts the critical balance between the detergency and anti-wear packages within the oil. When this happens the entire formulation is thrown out the window.

logray

I suppose since this is the oil thread de' jour...

Not additive specific, but sorta related, I think I remember reading Jake was going to post some pics from a factory crate engine that was broken in using Mobil 1 0w40 (and probably broken in according to the owners manual guidelines).



(running... I'll take my answer offline )

dennis hiip

RE zink additive: Thanks guys. I tend to over think this stuff some times. I'll stick with Delo 15W-40 in these old gasers and be content with the zink and phosphorus content. It's been working for a long time. I just started to worry after learning that the formula of this oil is changed. MB= 200k and only has had valve stem seals.