question about window regulator and switches
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question about window regulator and switches
Hi Guys,
I have a friend's car (02 996 C2) that is having an odd issue that I didn't come across a solution when searching, and I'd like to see if someone has had the same problem.
The driver's side door, when opening it from either the outer handle, or the inner handle, will lower the window the appropriate distance, but will then immediately raise the window back up, even when the door is opened, or even when the handle is held open. The "car" seems to think the door is not open, because the dome light will go out after a bit, as though the door was shut, even though the door is actually open. That's the first issue.
A second thing I notice is that when trying to close the door, because the window is not lowered any longer, it has to snap into the seal, which seems to have loosened the window.
Does this up/down action and inability to recognize that the door is open, sound like a microswitch problem, or a regulator problem? Seems like the switches work, but something is not registering the proper function. Otherwise the function is normal for the roll up and down; it just won't stay down in the required spot, and the car doesn't realize the door is open with it actually is.
Pointers? I'll try the "reset" maneuver tomorrow to see if that helps. Thanks so much for any other ideas from those that have come across this issue.
I have a friend's car (02 996 C2) that is having an odd issue that I didn't come across a solution when searching, and I'd like to see if someone has had the same problem.
The driver's side door, when opening it from either the outer handle, or the inner handle, will lower the window the appropriate distance, but will then immediately raise the window back up, even when the door is opened, or even when the handle is held open. The "car" seems to think the door is not open, because the dome light will go out after a bit, as though the door was shut, even though the door is actually open. That's the first issue.
A second thing I notice is that when trying to close the door, because the window is not lowered any longer, it has to snap into the seal, which seems to have loosened the window.
Does this up/down action and inability to recognize that the door is open, sound like a microswitch problem, or a regulator problem? Seems like the switches work, but something is not registering the proper function. Otherwise the function is normal for the roll up and down; it just won't stay down in the required spot, and the car doesn't realize the door is open with it actually is.
Pointers? I'll try the "reset" maneuver tomorrow to see if that helps. Thanks so much for any other ideas from those that have come across this issue.
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From: Knoxville, TN
It isn't the regulator. It sounds like the door contact microswitch inside the lock assembly is not showing the door open when the door is actually open, causing the control unit to raise the window as if the door has already been closed. At least that is where I would start.
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Thank you for the helpful reply Doug. I'll take a look at where to find that - Do you know if it is in the handle side, or is it the actual lock mechanism on the backside of the door? Thanks again!
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Ok, Doug, you were right on. Upon removing the door lock mechanism, there is a micro switch that is activated by the latch to give the door's open/closed status - its plunger broke off and so it was no longer working. I actually found the broken plunger in the bottom of the door. I am hoping it can be repaired because I have yet to find a replacement microswitch - I'll try radioshack tomorrow. Seems like a shame to buy a whole new lock just for this little switch! Thanks again for the help Doug. Now... any leads on a microswitch source? I just need a new plunger!
Last edited by garrett376; Jan 9, 2013 at 12:02 PM.
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From: Knoxville, TN
It looks like the same switch that they use in the spoiler to determine if it is up or down. It's not a very robust design. You might be able to fabricate a new plunger out of some scrap plastic but otherwise I think a new lock is the only way to get a new switch.
Good luck with the repair!
Good luck with the repair!
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A quick update that might be helpful - I bought a $5 microswitch from Digi-key.com and successfully repaired the locking mechanism by dissecting a new switch, using the new plunger and seal. Fortunately the Porsche switch can be disassembled without breaking it apart - I broke apart the new switch and everything fit together perfectly. All is well, saving from having to buy the entire lock for this small switch!
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by garrett376; Jun 6, 2009 at 04:38 PM.
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I bought three switches since I was not sure which would work best. The first image below was the easiest to cut open and had the same plunger type as the original switch, and I used the blue seal, too. Its part number is: SW719-ND
The other switch I bought, could work as a replacement by epoxying it into place if an entire switch is required. Its part number is: SW291-ND
The other switch I bought, could work as a replacement by epoxying it into place if an entire switch is required. Its part number is: SW291-ND
Last edited by garrett376; Jan 9, 2013 at 12:02 PM.
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Thanks for the great information! I'm a little nervous about taking the mechanism out of the door, especially breaking the connection with the outside door handle. Has anyone found a write-up or is it easier than I'm imagining?
Thanks again,
Dan
Thanks again,
Dan
