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Haven't had the chance to look at the switches yet...things seem to be getting worse though.
The door lock light is on (on the button) and won't turn off. When I push it, it beeps very quickly at Me like something is wrong or a door is left open...
Haven't had the chance to look at the switches yet...things seem to be getting worse though.
The door lock light is on (on the button) and won't turn off. When I push it, it beeps very quickly at Me like something is wrong or a door is left open...
Awesome tread! This is the kind of tread I spent hours searching for... how to REPAIR my microswitch, rather than the entire lock... Some people can afford to throw lots of money at their car, I got this car because I was able to apply cost saving measures to lots of things in my life.... Now, I can start the process of figuring out which switch needs to be replaced.
My alarm occasionally double beeps when I unlock my car door. My alarm sometimes relocks itself after I open only my passenger door. I think the alarm does not know when the passenger door is open. Would that be the
I am thinking that it is the "door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position" switch. Thoughts?
Originally Posted by pongobaz
I've got to do the same fix on mine, and it's not a torx bit you need for the lock assembly, it's a triple square bit. I bought a set a a local automotive parts store...not very expensive.
What is the size of the triple square XZN bit? How are XZN bits named? Like Torx is T25, T20, etc. I need to search through my bit set to see if I have the right one, but I cant find it online. Is it like M10, M15, etc?
Update: Just ordered my parts, 2 switches were cheaper $15.03 shipped, at Mouser.com using the Orion part number: D2HW-BR201M
I figured that if it is not the switch, the switch will eventually fail at some point, so now I have a spare.
Update: It ended up being COLD SOLDER Joints. Opened it up, and saw the cracked solder. Removed all the old solder and resoldered all the joints. Its working great now.
Last edited by professorman; 05-27-2018 at 12:05 AM.
I've been having similar issues as others have described on the passenger door (2002 996 C2 coupe) but it's been intermittent and has been getting worse. I know that I have a bad regulator and bought a replacement 2 years ago. But now the locking LED has been going on randomly, I have been getting horn chirps when locking or unlocking, etc., but intermittently.
So I spent today replacing the regulator, and removed the door lock assembly and took it apart down to the circuit board. Yes, definitely bad solder joints (I have a lot of experience soldering so it was obvious, and looked similar to a photo posted in this thread or maybe another related one). I cleaned those up, resoldered, and put it all back together. (Which took a few tries; I didn't see that the regulator has a higher stop built in that you have to remove for the 996).
So now it's better in some ways, worse in others. The window reacts exactly right, which is improved. It goes down 10mm or so when opened and slides back up to the top when closed. The interior light works correctly in response to either door opening or closing. So the door switch monitoring the door open/close state is certainly working, which was not the case before.
What's wrong now is that it is 100% consistent that the locking system is not working. The red LED is always on. It appears that the passenger door is always unlocked. When unlocking the door with either fob or driver's door key lock, I get two horn chirps and when locking with either, I get one chirp (or nothing). In either case I hear the passenger door lock mechanism doing multiple tries at locking (or unlocking). The driver's door responds correctly, but it appears the passenger door remains unlocked in all cases. Durametric gives codes 61 and 47 (see below).
Looking for any advice on what to look at next. It appears the passenger door lock mechanism is now completely broken although the switches, at least one or two of them, are now working correctly and consistently. Maybe I missed something while reassembling the lock mechanism (I can see why it's not a user serviceable unit). I can probably get in there and replace it in 2 hours and not 8 like today (it was my first time tackling a 996 door).
UPDATE: if you really want to learn what's inside the door lock mechanism, how it works, how to disassemble and reassemble, this video covers all of it:
It's for a VW unit but very similar to the 996 unit. After watching this, I'm pretty sure I missed at least one important step while reassembling mine. Key sections:
22:00 - detail of electrical internals; top shell must align with worm slider hole
26:40 - worm slide: when microswitch closes it sends signal that door is unlocked
08-22-2017, 09:00 AM
