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- with the door open when I pull and release the outside/inside handle the window goes down and up immediately. After that, If I want to close the door after I touched the outside handle (window up), I have to bring the door as close to the car as possible without closing it. The moment the latch touches the striker the window goes down and stays there and now I can close the door. If I push the latch's mechanism with my finger, the window goes down and stay there.
- when I open the door from inside..everything is fine..and window goes down and stays there. I can close the door without any issue.
Thank you
hi guys! any update on this particular query? was it the locking mechanism microswitch problem also?
So to answer Howard's question above since I just took it all apart: yes I did need to remove the gold colored bracket to make it easier to slide the unit out. Also, I did need to remove the 2 10mm nuts on the back of the door handle so I could pull out the latch unit without breaking the lock mechanism that inserts into it.
Just replaced the drivers side door lock on my 2002 C4S due to a lock micro-switch issue - I was having all the same issues quoted in this thread. I used the information in this thread plus the tech articles on Pelican Parts for both door lock and door card removal. I found garrett376's advice (quoted above) to be excellent as I was having a hard time disengaging the door lock latch pin. One other thing to note. The new locks for model years 2002-2005 don't come with the "plastic keep plate" (my name for it) that secures the Bowden Cable in place so make sure you transfer it over from the old lock. See attached pic showing what I mean by "keep plate". Other than that, this was a 3 hour job which I could probably do in about half that time now I know what I'm doing. Not a hard job just a bit fiddly!!
I've got to do the same fix on mine, and it's not a torx bit you need for the lock assembly, it's a triple square bit. I bought a set a a local automotive parts store...not very expensive.
Sure wish I would have found this little gem of a thread before I started my door lock replacement. This information concerning the Triple Square head versus Torx is key to this task. I suppose most of the German car owners are familiar with this head, although I was not and it stopped me dead in my tracks from proceeding. This was not called out in the book I just bought from PelicanParts either (101 Projects For Your Porsche 911), which is a bit surprising to me, as it is this unique tool requirement that was one of the primary reasons for buying such a book. I may have missed it, but scanning again I do not see the Triple Square head bolts being called out. As a revision I would definitely call out the Triple Square bits as a requirement for your tool box if owing and planning DIY work for your Porsche is in your plans.
- with the door open when I pull and release the outside/inside handle the window goes down and up immediately. After that, If I want to close the door after I touched the outside handle (window up), I have to bring the door as close to the car as possible without closing it. The moment the latch touches the striker the window goes down and stays there and now I can close the door. If I push the latch's mechanism with my finger, the window goes down and stay there.
- when I open the door from inside..everything is fine..and window goes down and stays there. I can close the door without any issue.
Thank you
Exact same problem.
Only not working from outside.
Any ideas?
Disconnect the battery with window up. Remove interior door panel. Disconnect wiring, airbag, and window motor drive, and door pull from interior door handle. Remove internal metal door panel. No need to remove the exterior door handle if the door handle has a flexible shaft connecting exterior door handle to lock/latch mechanism. This flexible shaft allows you to lock/unlock your door manually in the event your car battery is dead. Unscrew two bolts that holds the door lock/latch mechanism and disengage flexible shaft from door lock/latch mechanism.
Here is the flexible shaft in diagram. Flexible shaft is seen in the top right hand corner of diagram and is connected to the key hole shaft. On earlier models 996, flexible shaft is not so flexible as it is made out of steel.
Swap out old lock/latch mechanism for new from dealer. And don't forget to re-engage flexible shaft from exterior door handle to lock/latch mechanism, otherwise you will NOT be able to unlock your door with your key inserted into the exterior door handle. Reconnect metal door panel, wiring, window motor drive, air bag, door pull cable to interior door handle. Re-attach interior door panel. Done.
I'm stuck. (2002 C4S) So I pull open my inside door handle or my outside door handle - window goes easily down and then back up the necessary amount. From the outside - I can close the door, but then need to "flick" the outside handle to make it go down (same goes for the inside). From what I've read, it's the plunger part.
I did order a spare "plunger" (SW719-ND).
I disassembled the door - took the lock mechanism out and opened it up (see pic). I then checked all 3 plungers and they all seemed to work and click back to normal position.
Not sure where I should go from here. Any suggestions other than ordering a new lock mechanism (which I'm very tempted to do at this point).
Just posting this in case anyone needs any help in the future.
Like I said in my previous post, the window had no issues going up and down. No issue with the quick downward motion, with either the inner or outer handle. The issue was that it always went up when the door was open.
I opened up the mechanism and all the micro switches appeared to work. There was something else that was wrong.
I ordered a new door lock mechanism and now everything works. It seems like there was some possible electrical issue in the mechanism that wasn't working correctly.
I've found several threads on the subject of window regulators mentioning the cable getting slack and recommending adjusting to take up that slack in the sheath (or Bowden cable). However, I haven't been able to find anything specific to doing that. One post said to pull out the cotter pin (I have 4 of them close together), pull the Bowden tube tight (mine appears to be as retracted as it's going to get), and then re-insert the cotter pin.
What am I missing?
I've found several threads on the subject of window regulators mentioning the cable getting slack and recommending adjusting to take up that slack in the sheath (or Bowden cable). However, I haven't been able to find anything specific to doing that. One post said to pull out the cotter pin (I have 4 of them close together), pull the Bowden tube tight (mine appears to be as retracted as it's going to get), and then re-insert the cotter pin.
What am I missing?
A new window regulator! Cable stretches with time/use. Many have attempted repair but it just is not going to work for very long. Bite the bullet and replace it since you are already "in there". http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=804-30
So glad I found this, having the same window doesn't drop-can't push it down-interior lights don't turn on when I open the passenger door in my 01 996TT. Hoping it's just the plunger and not the whole lock assembly
Just wanted to add to the knowledge base. I pulled my door latch/lock mechanism and discovered the microswitch on the outside of the latch to be worn and defective. However, when the rubber nipple wore off the plastic plunger damaged the plastic coating on the mechanism. I ordered a replacement microswitch to replace it, but from the pictures, you can see why I likely need a new latch.
Incidentally, I tried heating up a flat head screwdriver and gently smoothing the plastic coating. This fixed the problem intermittently but still happens. Was thinking about cutting the plastic off and filling with epoxy and sanding smooth.
Someone told me you can buy a VW latch instead of the Porsche. Is this true? Not looking forward to spending $350 on this simple problem.
Worn microswitch. Shows signs of nipple abuse.
This picture shows where the microswitch attaches to the outside of the latch. The plunger touches the black wheel. Notice how scuffed it is.
OK, so I purchased a VW Beatle door latch. It had the wrong pin out, but the door latch and microswitch were what I was looking for. I removed the old latch from the plastic enclosure, soldered in the new microswitch and put it on the new latch. Voila, works perfectly. $25 fix and about an hour and a half of labor. It's amazing how good this fix felt. I was really getting tired of closing my door twice!
Replacement part on top with cheapo microswitches and difference mechanism. OEM part on bottom.
10-03-2013, 04:58 AM
