If you're indy is going to swap out the AOS for a new one under warranty, I'd ask them if they would do a UAOS instead for the difference in part cost - the labour involved is pretty much the same.

 

I'm in Australia and the UAOS is 4 week wait according to the site ;(

 

If the aos does test good i would just lower the oil level 2 bars on the digital read out and and call it fixed. As u have been reading the aos is very sensitive to oil level.

 

I've been reading that they're sensitive. I'm still confused how over filling the oil affects the AOS. Is it that oil is sucked up through the return line?

 

The m96 motor accumulates a lot of oil in the heads during high g driving. The aos pulls vapor from the top if the motor under vacuum and all this oil gets too close to the aos intake. It gets sucked up and overwelms the drain back feature. Then it dumped directly into the intake. This causes the smoke and sometimes hydrolock.

 

Well, if your AOS does prove to be the problem and if waiting without running your car is a concern,,,, Could always run a easy to cobble up homemade catch can system or a store bought one.

Some m96 owners have done so for years. Have read here about racers on this forum permanently running catch cans...A catch can is just a more permanent setup than the one I described in my earlier post...

Car should run fine without the aos connected, maybe even better. Disconnecting the vac line to aos and setting up some type of home made or store bought 'catch can' breather, would give you as much time as needed to get the UAOS..

Here is a $22.00 cheapy Amazon catch can with breather and drain that might be plenty good enough till your uaos comes in...


jmo

 

Hi mate - I got the results back. I posted it on Bob is the oil guy (despite my introduction to the that forum for asking about Gulf oil resulting in minor scortching....)

Happy to post here. But where?

 

Why not post them here?!

 

Gulf Formula ULE 5W-40 VOA

 

Looks like the sample doesn't have any moly which is something you want for the M96. Take a look if you can find Millers Nano 40 or 50. It's manufactured in the UK but you may have access to it. You may be able to find it on Amazon as well.

My indy used it as their oil so I ran it for 12 years in my car on the street and track and it took good care of my bores. But my indy changed their oil so i ended up going to Driven DI40 after talking to Lake about what he suggest that can be run on both the street and track. For sure, DT is cheaper but can't handle the heat as well on the track and I wanted to use only one oil that could do double duty.

Oil is everything in our engines and I wouldn't skimp on getting the best you can in your M96. It's only 2 oil changes a year unless you track your car and it will be more.

 

Hi Mate,

Indeed I've learned that moly is highly desirable. I did this VOA to see the content because I cannot get in Australia all of the recommended oils. Millers, Driven, Motul X-Cess 8100 GEN2, Pennzil Ultra Platnium etc... just not here.

There is a distributor of Driven and I'll admit I've only made one attempt at contact without success. Redline are here but they're all eBay / Amazon sellers and $300 a fill. How long has the oil been sitting on the shelf?...

If that is what I have to do then so be it.

 

I had Autowerks Wyong install my UAOS bought from LN engineering.

 

If you can't get Millers or Driven, another option would be to just purchase a moly additive, such as LM Ceratec or Swepco's version:

https://lnengineering.com/swepco-502...oz-bottle.html

 

Good info on the Moly additive bonding to Aluminum/Alusil/Lokasil in the description/benefits of the Swepco /LM additive, whereas ZDDP additive only bonds to steel/iron components .. ....

 

Is this stuff any good ?